have a look here: http://www.brokevw.com he has all kinds of info and measurements for the 020 box and its release components
Thanks for that. very detailed measurments showing everything I need to Know.just hope my measurments are the same.
Arm deflection is a delta of 21mm at the cable to arm connection point, on my mate's std 1600 mk2 driver Jon
Ok I've checked it(to brokevw)all out my measurments are about spot on.the only thing is on the diagram it's saying Clutch arm should start to feel resistance at 9 o,clock position (no further).mine does go a bit beyond this point Surely the only thing it can be is the t/o bearing(worn)or worn finger at contact. Is the bearing a simple process.
may be the pushrod is a little worn or the finger, or slight variation on the clutch kit vs oem. bearing is easy swap, pop the green cap off and there it is, a magnet helps getting the wee bugger out. a new green cap will probably be required though
Ok will swap it anyway they cheap enough.pushrod is good 340mm long very minimal wear. I will do all possible.but if it dosnt improve I think my bite point will just be a little lower than Should be.which means I will have to bury clutch into carpet on changes.lol
Great idea just something like coin thickness would do it.maybe the new bearing will be enough if the old one Has collapsed a bit.but a spacer is an option to get resistance a bit sooner.
Hi, should my 82x gli cabby have vdo gauges in it.i have the three holes for them on the Brown oe centre console.but I also have a brown plastic plate to cover these holes. Also I can't see where they would connect to. Would like these in really.
it would hvae had the option for gauges, but unless it was ordered with them you wont have any of the wiring or senders for them so this you'll have to add yourself to get them working
Ok thanks may add them at a later date when ive nothing more to do.they not very high on priority list At the moment.i have had g/box end cover off today and replaced t/o bearing as previously mentioned Everything is good with g/box.but I still feel the arm has slight too much travel.im just gonna fit it,test Drive it and see.if I don't like it I may add a spacer to the back of bearing.to get better quicker release.
Hi,bit of a strange one this but bear with me ive installed my engine and gearbox but nothing is connected yet Apart from down pipe and driveshafts.i don't know weather it's in gear but I can't rotate my wheels with them off the ground Supposing it has got a gear selected I should be able to rotate wheels but with full foot force they won't turn. I don't want to go any further with it in case there's a problem in g/box.this is the gearbox I got with an engine purchased Not the one I removed.
even when its in gear you should be able to turn one of the wheels as the diff will allow this, unless its LSD of course
My mistake when I removed old engine the bearing assembly (inner cv)fell to bits bearings,cage Etc. I put it back together "as its in good condition "but somehow got it wrong and when bolted Up to gearbox coupling wouldn't turn.today I rebuilt it and it's fine It didn't really look like it was possible to get wrong.
Yes it is.i was ready for changing the g/box but soon as I disconnected driveshafts the diff rotated in opposite Directions as I expected.soon realised my error. And why is it reconnecting driveshafts( always in my experience )one falls short of the coupling and looks Like it's not long enough to re-attatch.
Its probably because with all the engine wiggling you do both the cvs get shoved outwards as far as they can go pushing the shaft to the shortest runnign length
Ok, now I'm getting towards connecting a few final bits before cranking over this engine ive put in and hopefully it Will be a running engine with no real issues fingers crossed.but another question is when my last engine was in and Ignition was put into 2nd position on key but NOT turned over the cis was putting fuel through .although NOTstarted . The Engine was getting injector spray.i have mentioned this before I think but can't remember What to look at to stop this happening as I don't know much about k-jet but this isnt normal.is it ????
I don't know much about K-Jet either, but if the injectors are pressure controlled it could be that system pressure is rising too far when the pump is primed or the injectors are opening at a lower pressure threshold than they should.