Engine removal

Discussion in '8-valve' started by mk2 nas, Dec 6, 2015.

  1. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi all,
    I am currently removing my engine to replace like for like 1600 eg.anyway to the point is it best to lift
    The engine from the car or lift the car and pull engine from under.just all looks a bit tight to lift out
    From top. (Servo m/cylinder etc)
    Car is 1982 mk1 cabby. How would u go about it thanks.
     
  2. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Out of the bottom for me on a mk1
    Jon
     
  3. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi my driveshafts are all that's stopping me getting this engine out.anyone know what size spline socket I need for these.
    Thanks.
     
  4. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Yeah, easy way is to ;
    slacken both drive shaft nuts (wedge screwdriver down the disc cooling holes)
    support the front on two axle stands and remove the wheels
    remove the four lower suspension leg bolts
    remove the inner splined bit bolts (think its a CR-V8)
    remove the shafts
    Jon
     
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  5. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi trying to remove shafts from g/box with the spline 8mm but the bit im using just seems loose in the bolts.
    I don't get a real purchase on them I admit the bit is cheapish... are they all the same as I think the splines on the bit
    Need to be a bit more chunky.[:x]
     
  6. valvemiester

    valvemiester Paid Member Paid Member

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    When you go to take those spline bolts out first clean all the muck out of them with a small flat blade screwdriver then put the bit in the bolt head and give it a couple of taps with a hammer to make sure the bit is fully inserted into the bolt and then fit your ratchet or extension on and undo it, I've used this method for years and never had a problem, in fact I use this method on any spline, allen, torx socket headed bolts. I would invest in a good quality set of spline bits if I were you it saves a lot of hassle in the long run.
     
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  7. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    as the valvemeister says, I use a long scriber
    Jon
     
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  8. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Driveshafts now disconnected spline bit I had was a joke.(just poor make)went and got laser bits and no problems
    Although still don't like that type of bolt and if I can get something else they won't be going back in.any ideas where I can get decent replacements.allen head type is better I think.
    So just engine mounts and engine is out.although while rolling around under car ive noticed gear linkage bushes whatever
    They called are split, or missing completely.... so another job.just looking forward to getting it roadworthy for summer.
    Been on it now since June most w/ends need to get some pics up.
     
  9. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    I have seen high tensile allen headed bolts used, but never had a problem with VW standard ones. One thing. I had n air cooled vw camper back in the day and I rebuilt the engine (same driveshaft bolts). Had to walk home on the maiden voyage when one of the the driveshafts fell off. LOL. Memo to self: Always make sure they are f in tight.....
    Jon
     
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  10. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I used the have them loosen too. Now I do them FT and they have been fine ever since.
     
  11. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok well I may keep them on.just don't like em I get the feeling they are gonna strip out with too much
    Torque. may have to torque them to the book spec instead of my ft torque.;)
     
  12. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi as mentioned in previous comment my driveshafts are off the g/box.
    However ive noticed a split in my outer cv.the joint is ok just need to put on
    A new boot as I've not disconnected hub end of shaft.would it be easier for
    Me to remove inner joint and slide a boot down the shaft?
    Is it a simple process to remove inner?
     
  13. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Fairly simple, if not the messiest job on any car, cv grease is the worst. You'll need some circlip pliers for square circlips. I'd order a new couple circlips from the dealers first if I were you.
    They tend to not stretch back well. Take note of the position of the belville washer on the inside.
    Jon
     
  14. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ok thanks.will try it from inside (as its off.)saves me splitting of the outer cv.
     
  15. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Oh no more problems changing this eg engine.ive just discovered that the eg engine I'm putting in has a different
    Water flange(front of head)and the oil cooler is different.current oil cooler is square with one sensor this one isn't square
    And has 2 sensors(oil & water I take it)secondly water flange on head on old engine has 3 this one has 2.they both eg engines
    But different head set ups.wernt aware of this.
    I think maybe just put both sensors onto the new oil cooler and may have to get some different shaped pipes.:cry:
     
  16. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    get some pictures up of both i had a 1.6 gti and know this engine quite well as does Jon
     
  17. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    I will try but I've always struggled with uploading them.ive just looked in the Haynes and it's showing what looks like
    An external oil cooler with two long pipes coming off what I thought were sensor ports now I'm really confused.
    I think this set up has been messed with and isn't the oe set up.i smell trouble is looming for me on this.
     
  18. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    I think I've worked out what's wrong the oil cooler is the problem I'm sure.it should have an external oil cooler
    With the two long pipes but someone I think has ditched it for the square oil cooler that looks the same as the one on my Pb
    8v mk2 .and the flange position on head is different from Haynes pics.so I'm thinking this head on my knackered engine was the wrong head.basicly all I need is two pipes and external oil cooler and it all worksto book and pics...
    I think someone cobbled an engine together badly(it threw me a bit).im sure its right that early gli golfs and roccos had external coolers for oil?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes if its a 1.6 and early 1.8 it should have the external air-oil cooler, the later cab/rocco switched to the water-oil cooler same as the mk2 golf has

    is the engine you're putting in definitely an EG code? from the sounds of it you have a 1.8 engine or a later 1.6 carb engine. look round the back for the big 1.8 cast into the block. if it is an EG code with a late head on then theres an extra oil drain on the late head which doesnt match to the 1.6 block and the main drain is too big. plus the compression woudl be way too low
     
  20. mk2 nas Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi the engine going in is 1600 eg deffo.it just looked a bit confusing with
    The old one coming out as the water flange has three outlets and my
    New lump only has two but I have no external oil cooler.so I just need
    To get the cooler and pipes for the lump going in.
    Problem sorted once I get one of these.question though is
    External oil cooler better or worse than water cooled oil.
     

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