I picked up a new cylinder head for my 16 valve project a few weeks ago and I am looking for some info regarding fitting aftermarket cams. I purchased the head 2nd hand and it is a TSR Pack A which came with standard KR cams fitted, the head has covered 5000 miles, I believe that TSR replace almost everything from new so I am guessing that everything is still pretty new it certainly looks in good order. I am wanting to a fit a pair of Schrick 268 camshafts I have and vernier pulley which I should be getting soon, I am currently doing some cost predictions which leads me to my question will any components in the head need replacing when I fit these cams and pulley i.e cam followers, timing chain etc? Pete
Most cars they are fairly easy to replace and chances are they'll be stardard parts although for some vehicles you can get light weight racing lifters. Get a book if you don't have one because if you don't replace the cam right you could snap it in half. [:^(] Oh and I guess I'd replace the timing chain while I was at it, no sense not to, especially if your engine has a lot of miles. Edited by: mechsoldier
are you still using the kr lump peter or have you gone to 2.0l? i'd be interested to hear how it does as i am looking into having the same work done to mine. i'm currently debating whether its better to ditch my 90k kr for a 9A or have the head and cams done on the kr instead. my main concern on modding the kr is that i will lose a shedload of torque
Cheers gents Ive heard that the cams are pretty brittle so well take care I seem to remember an earlier post on fitting techniques so Ill have a look, Andy Im a little unsure of what the tappets look like and actually do Ive searched the ETKA but cant find anything? Beanie the head and cams wil be going on a 2.0 bottom end when I can eventually find one Ive found a few ABFs but I really want a short block I think a 6A from an Audi may be on the cards TBH. I think the 2.0 bottom end would be more beneficial and cost effective than going for a flowed head and cams as you say the lack of torque could be a problem, Im basciallly building the engine up on a stand out of the car so i'm going for a process of doing the whole lot at once takes a while though Pete
nice, ideally thats what i'd be doing but i just can't justify the expense at the mo. hope it goes well
You don't really need to replace the followers, they don't form a wear patttern like a normal follower can because they rotate constantly in use.
Thats how most followers work, it doesn't matter they still wear. Say the center gets high on the lifter, even though it spins, its still going to be in the middle, put the new one in and it's gonna wear faster. Replace them as a set.
Thanks again everyoneSorry to be a pain but I'm still confused looking at the exploded drawing I can see the cam followers (look like fat cylinders) these sit under the cam lobes and appear to sit above the valves, are these different to the tappets? Cheers Beanie TBH a lot of people seem to be trading up to 20VT so there seems to be a bit of 16 valve tuning goodies about at the moment if you search the classifieds for 2nd hand parts you can save a packet I mentioned it before (all - yawn) but all being well the whole engine should come in at under a grand and that includes a four branch, flowed inlet and lightened flywheel. It does take a while to source the bits but its quite good fun Pete Edited by: Peter
Can't say I've ever replaced a set when replacing a cam (unless they were due for replacement anyway), and I've never had problems in ten years of doing so.
Yup, those are them. Tappets, followers = same thing. Well not technically, but most people tend to use the words interchangeably.
Have you ever measured the lobes with a micrometer after having them installed a while side middle and side and compared them to the specs. I wouldn't want to turn a 279 lift cam into a 229 lift cam. I went to school at the largest Mechanics school in the states and was told this by a guy who builds midget engines (kawasaki and such in dirt track racers). Last year first second and third place over all cars had his engines. Do what you want, but I would replace them if I was you. Edited by: mechsoldier
Pete Take a gander at the results from car TSR built. It utilises a 2 litre 9A lump balanced etc ARP internals and uses a TSR Head and Manifold with Schrick 276/268 cams running normal K jet End result....202 bhp and 160.2 lbs of torque Graphs are on GVK's web page from Stealth Racing Ianb....what's more it's ultra reliable and is regular used on track.
