yes, please... thanks Mine get hot, but I think I can feel the heat because of some kind of hole through which some air coms into the cabin, and then this air gets heated by the FB and then gets to my body [:^(] thank you for looking at your relays.... really!
hi. here you can se my fusebox's upper section. the relay which gets hotter is the pink one (circled in green). this is connected to a green fuse (circled in yellow) by a red wire (I have drown the wire in blue). if I pull out the relay, both AC and radiator fan stop working. the fuse gets INCREDIBLY HOT, I had to replace it because it's plastic was burnt and melted. The wire (marked in blue) was carbonised so I cut off it's burnt section and replaced the connector to the fuse. pls I need some help, about how to know where the problem is
hi, nono, the hole is the one used for door wirings. I used an amp meter yesterday and when the rad fan starts on it's first speed, the fuse's wires draw 6 or 7 amps, while when on the second speed, they show 20 amps I also unplugged Z2 wire both from fusebox and from battery and checked for continuity, successful. I then put a connector to a 14mm section wire to plug it into Z2 and to battery (-). If I do this, first position on the key does "things" like oil press check, coolant check, fuel pump etc,.... but rad fans and AC don't work.. so I just plugged the Z2 wire to the battery (but NOT to the fusebox) and so AC + fans work OK..... strange, isn't it?
I have been observing the commented fuse for some time and if the 2nd rad fan speed gets activated, 5 minutes later the fuse gets very very hot. so I have thought about doing some relays installation (similar to headlight ones...) just near to the rad fan. what do you think about it? should I do it, or not?
Hi Try a newer 30A fuse. If the fuse is sitting slightly lose in the socket, that might explain the heat. Try reducing the gap in the holes. Also at the back, check that the wires are gripped nicely.
yes, I already did these 3 things [:^(] [:^(] I am seriously considering the relays ... (rad-fan uprated loom )
it is about 3 years and 50.000miles. but the radiator works perfectly. why should it affect the rad fan wiring issues?
Hi Thanks. If the radiator is not helping in losing heat quickly, then the fan will keep running on full speed for too long and the fuse will get hot.
aa ok my rad works good, my coolant temps never pass the 95C line. thanks. yesterday I found two relays next to the radiator, I unplugged them and they were full of crap..... wha'ts more... they were crap with relays attached to the plugs
I've just ripped out a ton of fan wiring from my car because the previous owner looked to have had major trouble with it. Its now a simple system operated off a switch on the dash. I had melted wires at the fuse box end and I believe the guy who owned the car previously fried a few fan relays. EDIT: Which give me an idea!! Could I get rid of the switch on the dash and wire it to the thermo switch that screws into the rad?
yep the rad fan system on the MK2 is as simple as you can get. permanent fused 12v from the fusebox to the switch and an earth, thats it, no relays. You could wire in a fused live direct to the battery if you dont have the right live feed from the fusebox available. the thermo switch has a permanent live to 1 pin, the other 2 wires run to the fan, slow & fast. the earth runs direct to the fan.
So me and Arnau dont even need any fan wiring inside the car at all? We could have a fused live direct to the battery (or starter) going to pin 1 on the thermo switch then to the fan +ive. Then an earth to anywhere. Is that right? I currently have a fused live from the fan +ive to the battery +ive, then earth from the fan to a switch on my dash and a wire back to the battery -ive from the switch. Sounds like I could get rid of another few meters of wiring. Sweet!!
yep exactly right, just a case of iding which wires are which on your sensor and the fan. if you have any of the original loom this would help! on a MK2 the sensor is: 1 - high speed 2 - low speed 3 - live and the fan: 1 - earth 2 - low speed 3 - high speed in case you care the factory fusebox pin for the fan is A1/5, which is a permanant 12v feed from a 30amp fuse #19
My fan is a slim electric one so just has 2 wires. I think it will also only do 1 speed. I do wonder if its powerful enough to cool a corrado VR6 radiator on its own. I'd much rather have it comming on automatically though thater than the current switch. I'm a fool so it needs to foolproof. I still have the mk3 loom which I ripped out so can wire it to the thermo switch with that. I dont suppostg it matters which wire it goes to as long as the +ive is right. I think I pulled the pin from A1/5 along with the wire.
