very interesting write up there fella . I'm planning on fitting a twin tank system to my newly 1.9td converted mk2 golf .. ( i dont think i can use it on my t4 now since i converted it to 1.9tdi ) just one question , when using the two tank system how long do you need to run the engine on diesel before you switch the engine off , just so it clears the veg out of the system .. ?? i intend the use the golf for work ( 40 mile round trip ) so do i switch back over the derv a couple of miles before i get to work or does it need to be done sooner ? sorry for my lack of knowledge
The switch has purge functional when its in purge it only takes 30 seconds to clear the veg oil out. so pull up on drive , flick the switch and within 30secs all the lines are full of Diesel. i was purging for way too long and emptied the Diesel tank into the veg tank very quickly, fitted clear line for the Diesel so i could see how long it took. You will be fine running the T4 1.9TDI on it
Damn, I still need to do this. Doing only about 200 miles a week in my T4 but still expensive to run off the pump.
To be Honest i've only ever filled the T4 up once on 100% Diesel and it nearly broke the bank when it cost 90 a time. Its the only way to run a T4 economically due to the 30mpg they do, it is worth doing the 5th gear conversion too for better motorway MPG The 70 i'm saving on every fill now goes on other things , 99ron for the MK1 etc
The fifth gear conversion idea is interesting because I do most of my weekly miles on dual carriageways, and having the engine screaming at almost 3,000 just to sit at 60 gives me a headache! As well as more economical it must be more relaxing driving on motorways after making that change.
i have a 1.6td mk2 golf (1v engine 60hp idi diesel with cat) could i run any sort of veg mix in this engine? cheers luke
yes run 50/50 veg & Diesel, the only issue is on cold days it takes longer to started, that's why i fitted a new starter motor and battery when i was running without the twin tank set up.
Run the T4 with revised pipe layout and its running excellent , also worked out the purge time required at the end of the journey. Purge 30 - 60 secs Works Excellent, just going to fit some LED's on the dash to show which mode the system is in, WVO/Derv/Purge. Think i will also put a buzzer on Purge mode.
Using the WVO sounds cheap if you have space/time to do twin tank conversion... I'm running 100% WVO biodiesel straight through standard tank and filter in my AHU TDi wagon for 2 years now. not quite as cheap but I can fill up for 50 instead of 70 at corporate oil pumps...
Update - been running for a while now with the twin tank set - up and only two issues. 1. When i fill up the second tank with Diesel at the petrol they turn the pump off and come and check what i'm filling up. 2. when i've been a on long run 2hours plus it has trouble idling on veg oil ? didn't have this problem when i run it thru the factory filter, but with factory filter top end speed an issue due to fuel flow thru the OEM Filter. p.s. Veg Oil is 64p a Litre at Lidl special offer until Wednesday.
im reading through this thread i actually like the fact that you can use new or waste cooking oil to run a diesel engine im looking to do this to my 1.9TDi AHU (90bhp) what would be the best setup? use the tank with WVO/New Veg oil or 50/50 WVO and diesel? or the twin tank setup??
Awesome thread , bumping it what with the current fuel prices rises on the cards Any more updates on any filter problems , i am interested in that before i have a go at doing my A6 Cheers
if you use new Veg Oil there will be no issues. Only issues i had was with using waste oil i had to change the fuel filter once a month. but at 25p per litre i wasn't too bothered.
awesome i only have access to new oil so that should be fine . will start accumulating bits then , cheers
The price of Fuel in going up so i've stocked up on Veg Oil in the garage @ 50p per litre . news 2 per litre http://money.uk.msn.com/news/money-news/articles.aspx?cp-documentid=156359289
my Injection timimg is out at the moment so just looking at adjusting it and found this good post on Brickwerx forum - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/todays-24d-discoveries-pump-timing_topic26994.html Now, until now, this was speculation but until today I have been unable to check it. 2.4D's are slow, we all know that. You can set them up like Mr VW says, or like Mr Autodata says and they never seem "right" I've done loads of these cambelts and never really had any trouble, it's one of those things, it's booked in, you change the cambelts, set the pump timing up afterwards and off it goes, they always seem slow, but they get set to what the book says, so that must be right, well, seemingly not. i've long had the suspicion that all it not well with the 2.4D injection pump and today I managed to prove it. Story, I'll start from the beginning. I have recently had a reasonably high mileage T4 Westy High top in for a belt change, belt was done, van ran like a bag of ****. Timing was checked, and found to be a mile out, so timing was reset in the time honoured fashion with a dial gauge in the end of the pump. van now runs loads better, goes up hills, but blue smokes from cold and even when warm it's a bit lumpy and a blue haze from exhaust. Engine will not strt from ciold without the coldstart lever (telling me the pump timing is retarded) So, timing is bob on according to VW, bob on to Autodata but runs okay but not as well as it could. This moring I took delivery of a "Diesel pulse adapter" it's a small box containing a 9v battery, it has a small piezo electric clamp that goes around an injector line, an eart lead and a loop of wire. What the box does is sense the pulses in the injector pipe and converts it into a signal that any petrol timing light can use as a trigger for the strobe. So, this afternoon i managed to test out my worn pump but timed up right theory for real. Pump timing according to Autodata is .55mm lift@TDC. I set the pump a little advanced at .60mm lift at TDC. According to Autodata, to set pump timing dynamically (with pulse adapter) then the timing should be between 12 degrees BTDC and 16 degrees BTDC depending on the equipment used. So, piezo electric thingy is a bit finiky, and it didn't work at first so the injector line was cleaned with a scotch pad, not pulse adapter springs into life! I have a Snap On timing light with digital advance and retard. I set it to the 12 degrees and the timing marks where nowhere to be seen! I kept dropping back until I could see the marks, which I occasionally saw at 0 degrees BTDC telling me although according to the dial gauge I though the timing was advanced the timing was over 12 degrees retarded! That explains the poor starting and blue smoke then! After a bit of faffing around I managed to get the timing with the pulse adapter set to about 12 degrees BTDC and all seemed well, started better, reduced smoke and according to test pilot power was as it was pre belt. So, moral of story, when setting injection pump timing with a dial, be careful, although the dial is telling you what you want to know all may not be as it seems. I can only presume that this effect is caused by a worn pumping element, taking longer for the pumping element to reach such a pressure that it will open the nozzles, the more wear, the lower the pressure the more the timing will become retarded. Other things that could effect this are injector nozzle opening pressures set too high. I have learnt my lesson the hard way today, but as the proverb says "The only true mistake is the one where you do not learn from it" or something.
What's the general opinion on using electric heat exchangers like this one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WVO-SVO-PPO-Bio-Diesel-Biodiesel-Heater-Heat-Exchanger-/250719149917?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a60069f5d I'm guessing that if you use an electric heater, then you'd want to use it in conjunction with a coolant heat exchanger (perhaps before it), to enable you to use WVO virtually from cold. Thoughts? Waste of time? EDIT: This article highly advises against them as a replacement: http://www.biotuning.co.uk/PartsHeatExchangers.htm
i never went done that route, the threads and builds i used to research were all wet system heat exchangers.
