I have made a new Fibreglass dash, and it has a Dakota digital instrument panel on it, there are a number of connections it requires, I have used a Fuse Box wiring layout sticky over on another forum but would anyone mind just having a quick look to see how right.. or wrong I am before I start cutting wires? I have a Mk1 Caddy, with a Series 2 blade type fusebox. Here are the inputs the new instrument panel needs, and where I am looking to tap into.. +12V - Accesory power? - 18 AWG - Battery + H 3 - red? Ground - Main ground - 18 AWG - L 3 - brn - earth location 16 or 81 Dimming - 12V when headlights on - ? Speed - I bought a MK3 Golf Electronic Speedo Sender - It has 3 connection pins? - 1 ground? 2 signal 3 ? But I only need a signal wire to go to the dash Tacho - Direct to -ve side of coil or should I reuse the Rev counter wire that fed the old instruments? Hi Beam - A28- blu/wht- dash plug pin T7/? (high beam warning light) LEFT - Left indicator + A20- blk/wht- hazard switch pin L & indicator switch pin L RIGHT - Right indicator + A7 - blk/grn- hazard switch pin R & indicator switch pin R FUEL - B 3 - vio/blk- dash plug pin T7b/6 (fuel gauge) or D 3 - wht/grn- fuel gauge sender or transmission switch/upshift indicator? Also do you know what ohms the fuel sender uses on empty and full? At the same time as the dash panel, I am also wiring some seperate Switches in to replace the old ones. For the lighting switches should I just re-use the wires from the existing switch? Switch 1 HAZARDS? Switch 2 SIDELIGHTS? Switch 3 HEADLIGHTS? Switch 4 FAN - (Manual Fan on switch already) Switch 5 ENGINE START - B 8 - red/blk- ignition switch pin 50 Any help would be much appreciated, as I'm dying to get this dash in and up and running so I can drive it again. Cheers in advance, Ian
OK, so I had a play with it today, I used Black ignition wire 15 for power To the right of the fuseboard there was a circular connector with EARTH's connected to it Auto dimming I used GRY/BLU from the Dash Plug Fuel - VIO/BLK from the Dash Plug High Beam Indicator - BLU/WHT from the Dash Plug Tacho - RED/BLK from the Dash Plug ........................................................................... I still need to Fit the sendors for the OIL Pressure/Water Temp/Speedometer If anyone knows what the 3 Pins on the Mk3 Golf Electronic speedo sensor are please tell me. .......................................................................... One Problem so far... There are connections to the Dakota Digital control box for a LEFT and RIGHT indicator, which displays a corresponding arrow on the display, I connected these wires to A17 Dash Plug BLUE/RED wire, when I turn on the hazards both these arrows appear and the Hazard relay is clicking... However when I move the indicator stalk into position there is no clicking from the relay and no arrow's displayed on the dash display, have I disturbed/broken the indicator stalk? Also should the indicator stalk click on permanently for High Beam? I can't get it to... But it will flash the high beams, and an indicator on the dash displays that. I'm leaving the switches alone for the time being until I sort the main functions of the dash out. ...........................................................................
Thanks for that link, So just to clarify, the middle Pin (signal) will go to the Speed input on the Dash control box, Pin 1 (the KL15) can that go to the ignition +ve in key position 1+2 that I have used to supply the digi dash? And then pin 3 can be earthed in the engine bay..
So Today I wired up my Fan, and engine start switches. I seperated the wiring from the Light switch, and was able to wire up the New switch for the sidelights. I checked all fuses incase that was the reason my indicators were no longer working, but all of them were fine. My car didn't have a speedo cable attached when I bought it, and after googling + looking in haynes, I still couldn't spot where the drive gear and sendor are supposed to fit? It is supposed to be on the top side of the gear box? Unless something is covering it, I'm stumped. Was difficult to find a good picture or diagram for reference
A/17 is the warning light for either of the indicators, you need to splice the left and right to A/20 and A/7 instead sounds like you have lost your ign live feed if neither the indicators or high beam works, check you get 12v to the blue/black wire to pin 15 on the hazard switch with the ignition on. also make sure you see 12v at the flasher switch white/black wire pin 58 when the light switch is pressed down 2 clicks speedo hole detailed here if its an 020 box: http://brokevw.com/020oil.html
After looking at some images in the Transmission section of CGTI last night, I found the reason my caddy didn't have a speedo attached to the MK1 clocks - It has an O2A gearbox, not an 020. So should be able to sort out the Speedometer signal wiring today. In terms of the dash, that just leaves the temperature gauge sender to fit.. I bought a m10/1 to 1/8 NPT adapter, but would like to know where abouts on the engine I can place it? Then there is the Oil Pressure sender to install/wire up. I bought a t-piece, but the caddy has an oil cooler fitted so not sure about that just yet, it is difficult to see. I still have the indicators not working problem, but I broke the stalk yesterday, so will order a new one and try and fix that problem later. Switches: Still have to figure out the Headlights/mainbeam switch. Then the hazard switch which could be interesting... Cheers,
It's a 1.8 16v KR, RE: The Oil cooler, I believe the last owner said it was from a MK1 storm? Will it have a sandwich plate fitted and will that affect the use of the T-piece I ordered for the Oil Pressure Sender? P.S sorry for any numpty questions, I'm new to all things VW - Bit of a baptism of fire this caddy
kr has 3 M10x1 threaded holes in the side of the head, one of those is for the dash if its an oem mk1 type air/oil cooler then yeah the housing has a little thermostat in it with the oil tappings, you have 2 (or maybe 3?) in the filter housing, and one in the back of the head. the one in the back of the head is for oil temperature. for the oil pressure ideally get a dual pole sender which does the oil pressure gauge and warning light, then you can use a normal pressure switch in the other oil tapping. this depends really on what your dash needs for oil pressure/warning? factory VAG dash has 2 pressure switches for the warning circuit. if you want a pressure gauge as well what vw/audi do is replace one of these with a dual pole sender that i mentioned above, 1 pin does the same job as the oil switch it replaces, the other one is for the gauge.
Thanks Jonny, I put the wires through to the engine bay which was easy! As for the oil pressure, The dakota dash instructions say the sender included must be used as others would give incorrect readings to the gauge? it also says VDO equivalent is 360 003 Looking front on at the engine, to the right of the head at the rear there looks to be a t-piece fitted already, with the t-piece hole towards the ground there looks to be a sensor in there already (not connected to anything) I think i can make it out to be BOSCH, and 15 bar is written on it. 24mm open spanner needed to remove it! The t-piece is connected to a pipe which goes to the turbo - I assume this is an Oil feed or drain? I don't *think* the gauges will have a warning light function.. It may just be a case of having to watch the temperature. I might get my camera and get some pictures taken if it would help?
Here are some pictures.. Oil Feed and T-piece as mentioned above - Picture of the head end, and the Turbo end. Side of head/block? Here are what look like Coolant temp bits Here is the top of the oil filter housing? It's hard to tell but on top of the diff housing, is to me what looks like part of the speedo sender but minus the electrical part on top? Am I correct? Here are the senders dakota provide with the dash: ................................ This is a diagram of the type of switches I am using The sidelights appear to work, I have done as follows PIN 2 (Source) - 58 - Whi/GRN (no. plate lamp?) 58 R - Whi/Red 58 L Whi/Black PIN 1 - 30- RED (permanent live) This is probably wrong! Now I am left with the following - 2xYellow/BLK - Headlights? 2x Whi/BLK - Ignition Live? Yellow? - Highbeam Flash output? Whi/Blu - dash lighting? Earth - connected to old switch bulb Blk/yel - connected to old switch bulb Do the new sidelight switch (working) And headlight switch (not working currently in various configurations) need linking together somehow?
thats fine, you probably dont need either of the pressure switches with this dash anyway! if possible put it to the filter housing where the large white sensor is. pic 1 & 2 - oil feed to turbo, plus low oil pressure switch (might need to check this give adequate oil for turbo, assume it does if this car has been running happily for a while) pic 3 - all temp sensors. blue 2 pin is ecu temp, white 2 pin is also an ecu temp but unused. top 2 small ones are for dash and mfa oil temp, black collar is water temp for dash, white is oil temp for mfa pic 4 - high oil pressure switch, put your dash oil pressure sender there pic 5: if that has a thread on it then yeah thats your speedo sender. you pop a 1.3 golf cable on it for the analogue speedo, or electrical sender for a digi dash (or just remove the whole thing and swap) pic 6 - water temp sender i assume, if its m10x1 then it'll fit into one of the 3 holes on the side. but check the rating it might be the same as the black collar one thats there already? if not try it in the bottom left hole where the white 2 pin sender is i think the hole will be deep enough to fit it. pic 7 - speedo sender? will it for the sender on the box? pic 8 - oil pressure, fit to where white sensor is. light switch is fine, need a link from 2 to A so the led lights up, or you could instead link it to the light switch yellow/black wire so the switch lights up with the ignition just like how the oem mk2 one does yellow/black - X live feed (live with ignition but NOT cranking) 1 wire comes from ign switch, the other goes to the fusebox to power up the x-over relay (dont cut this wire, but make sure the pin cant earth!) white/black - dip/main beam live to the flasher stalk. you need to give this 12v when you want the dip or main beam to be on, if you are keeping your flasher/beam select function on the stalk yellow - dim dip resistor, bin white/blue - dash lighting output from dimmer wheel brown - earth for light in switch black/yellow - ign live for light in switch so do you have a separate side and light switch?
Cheers jonny for your help, will get it working and finished in the end! Will hopefully be able to get the gauges I was stuck with, and speedo sorted this weekend now. Just leaving the switches! - Yes, seems to run fine in the time I have driven it so I assume the Turbo is getting enough oil. The oil pressure switch in the back of the head has nothing connected to it at present.. Both senders that came with the dash have 1/8 NPT threads. I have bought one 1/8 NPT to 10/1 adapter and one the same but a T-piece. The speedo sensor that was provided with the dash has a thread too big to fit on the box. I have bought an Electronic sender for an 02a box today, so hopefully that problem is solved in theory when I get the new sender in the post Yes I have seperate switches, One for sidelights and the other for headlights/main beam. I have wired up the sidelight switch to permanent live RED 30, so when I link the pin 2 to A the LED is on all the time. Should I just use the Ignition live instead? That would also mean that I couldn't leave my lights on without a key in the ignition? I wired the sidelights switch as in my post above, Haven't seen the headlights working yet - Might this be because my Indicator stalk is not connected/broken? Working in the daytime on the lights and on my own it's been tricky to figure out!
righto, you want to link the LED to the ign live or sidelight, otherwise your light switch led will be on all the time even with car off. if you put it to ign live that will make it work the same way as the oem mk1 light switch (assuming bulb isnt blown like they all are these days ) or you could wire it to the sidelight wire which will make it only come on with the sidelights on. the other lights either daisy off the red, yellow/black or sidelights, up to you how you want the dash lighting to work! with the headlight switch put the output from that to the white/black wire, that will power up the flasher stalk so your dim/dip/flash works as per oem off the stalk. if that wire is not connected then the headlights wont work, though the sidelights should still.
Thanks for that! That will explain why I have not had any joy with the headlights as the indicator stalk is broken/disconnected. New OEM Mk2 chunky stalk in the post I have just done the water temp, and oil pressure sendors. I fitted the t-piece on top of the oil filter housing, and had the sender coming out the side. And I fitted the temp sender to the right on the side of the head.. The one which had the white crowned sensor in previously. On tickover (cold - first start of the day) Ran for a few minutes.. here are the preliminary readings... Fuel read: Full - must be in my reserve fuel but this can be set to custom ohm readings to give a % Volts - 11.9 MPH - (0.00) No electronic speedo sensor fitted yet anyway, plus was stood still RPM - around 700, but I think they are setup out of the factory for a V8 - again need to play with the settings when I wire up the control switches. TEMP - 21 deg c on start up which rose to 34 in the few minutes it was running Oil - 66 psi - remained pretty constant Do those readings so far sound about right? ............ On another note the caddy managed to spring a water leak.. think it was from a temp fix we did to the water pump flange.. or may have disturbed something whilst fitting the Oil pressure sender. Will investigate tomorrow
yep that all sounds fine so far, if the dahs has pressure warning set it to go off if pressure drops below 0.4bar at idle, and 1.8bar at 2krpm (4.3 and 26psi)
Cheers jonny, I'll have a spy through the manual I'd have thought it should incorporate a warning feature. I broke the mainbeam switch the other day, and (without taking the steering wheel off) assumed it was connected to the indicator stalk, ordered a golf mk2 chunky oem stalk, tried to put it on today and realised the mainbeam switch is part of the wiper stalk! doh, this dash project is raping my wallet! Hopefully getting the electronic speed sensor tomorrow, so that's something to be getting on with at least.. EDIT: Just looked at the setting up the control box section, and there is an option to set a low psi warning point, but if that's @ idle or whilst running i'm not sure yet
Today I fitted the electronic speed sensor and had a bash at tidying all the wiring. I also wired up the control switches for the dash display. What's left to do: 1)Fit Mk2 wiper stalk - when I can locate one 2) wire & test Sidelight and headlight switches. 3)Wire Hazard switch. 4)Finish the last little bits of the new dashboard. 5) May need to fabricate some new brackets for the heater control assembly, as it will be re-located from the original position. 6) Save up money for extra gauges, Boost, Oil Temp and n2o
Update: Sidelight and headlight switches are now completed and working! Fitted the chunky mk2 wiper and indicator stalks. Indicators are now working again! All that is left now is to set up the dash when it is installed. And lastly the thing i've been putting off looking at is the hazard switch How do I go to this : New Hazard switch From this: Old Switch Can I retain the normal operation, i.e flashing when on? For reference here is the dash control box - Cheers
