Sorry I'm the king of confusion at the moment. Yes I checked the dash lights (grey/blue) from the dash pin plug is not connected to anything now, could I use that as the power feed for all the switch LED's is that what you were suggesting? Would that make them dim when lights were switche on etc? I just did the hazard link PIN 2 to LED + and that works Infact that's all the switches operational now. I could just install the dash now and leave it as is and I'd be happy, but out of interest how possible are the following? These could be rainy day jobs at a later date, but I'm just curious. Could the engine start switch be illuminated with the ignition on in POS 1+2 then when the engine is started not illuminate? And instead of the lighting switches being lit all the time on or off, could they just be illuminated as they are switched on? cheers, ian
well no matter what you'll need to put power to that wire so the other bits you haven't touched light up like the heater panel, ciggy lighter and the like. unless you wire these things youself, or theyarnt there anymore. if you have got rid then no need to worry! if you want dimming you'll need some kind of resistor or wheel somewhere to do it to make switches illuminate only when they're turned on is easy, just bridge pin 2 to the led+ same as you have done with the hazard switch start switch I'll have a think on that one, or someone else will have a bright idea
Cool, easy when you know how eh! I had a good electronics book from 6th form (ages old now) but I can't find it. There is a connection for a potentiometer? on the dash control box to be able to dim the dash display to your own requirement, otherwise it just auto dims to a pre-set level when the lights are switched on. Heater panel - gone (i've relocated the controls slightly, and have used some carbon fibre sheet with the shape kind of mimicking the dakota dash shape) there's no plans to think of a way to backlight it at present. The cockpit is going to be lit up like a Xmas tree I think by the time it's finished! Cig lighter will be relocated to the centre console - when i've made one I need to order some extra gauges for the gauge panel bit - The main dash panel is now centred, and the gauge panel is in the drivers line of site. It's hard though, i want some digital gauges to match the style of the main dash panel but the only options I can find are cheap chinese? ebay ones. But they only have 2 options available when I need 3 - boost and oil temp (the others they have are incorporated into the main dakota display) Or glowshift gauges from the US - pretty pricey with possible import duty charges etc, Decisions, decisions! Have a shift light from a bike that I need to fit too.
ah cool, connect the grey/blue wire from the light switch to the clock dimmer output, then wire all the switches you want to dim into the blue/grey wires you have left over, if any you could buy yourself some kind of in car computer and rig it up to a touch screen, there must be lots of gauge software out there you can get. would be awesome
Haha, that would be sweet, I like your thinking but I'm scared to check my bank statement as it is... my wallet looks like this at the moment! I'm pretty limited for space in the caddy cabin too. Although there is a whole bed to play with, but means making a cover - which is another project down the road - I will update this space with some pictures when I get the dash mounted and have mulled over the gauge situation. Thanks again for your help jonny. If you come up with a solution to the Start button, then I'm all ears
One problem solved.. The dip/dip is now operational! When you said is the hook in place, The only hooks I saw first time around were the two small ones that help attach one stalk assembly to the other. When I took the wiper stalk off just now, A big tab popped out, then I saw a larger 'hook' that needed snapping around it New Problem: Wipers and washer jets are not working! There are only 3 plugs that connect in to the stalks? A square 5 wire? A curved connector on the left, and then a curved connector underneath? Will check the fuse in a sec. Sorry this is off the top of my head as have just popped in quickly to ask.
fuse #11 is the one to check the wiper/washer plug is the one with the green/black, black/grey, green/yellow, green. brown/black, brown and green/red wires. if the fuse is ok, check you have ign live at the black/grey wire to the wiper motor to start with
Fuse - all good! It was working previously, before the new stalk, so just wondered if it was something simple like the dim/dip turned out to be. Will go and have a play, cheers
Right, Looking at the steering wheel (if it was on) the left connector had all the wires you listed bar the BROWN - No multimeter yet, but what I did to check the BLK/GRY wire had ignition live power, was to link a wire from the connector plug to one of the PIN 1 power terminals on one of my switches, If it lights up when pressed we have power! Did that, and there was no light, so the BLK/GRY is not getting power to it With the fuse ok, what is the next item to look at, Relay?,
black/grey wire gets power direct from the fusebox, so if the fuse is definitly ok then you're looking at wiring or fusebox damage! check with a multimeter or swap for known good as the fuses can get a hairline crack in which is hard to see
Thanks for the suggestions, the Fuse is definetly ok, as I replaced it just now. I'm going to check the corresponding BLK/Gry at the fusebox plug. Some of the wiring looks a little suspect back there. I.e cut and taped back together, Maybe whilst tugging on the connector at the stalk end something has come loose.
oh and i had an idea for your engine start use the alternator blue wire. that will light up the switch with the ignition on, and should go off when car is running. could use it instead of the battery warning lamp
On further inspection the taped wires I found on Fusebox Plug D, were actually soldered, so I don't think that's the problem with the wipers. I did my test linking a wire from the Blk/gry at the fusebox end to one of the lighting switches, but no joy. Should that work in theory? I know I really need a multimeter, but I have a coolant leak to fix on the car, I think I disturbed the flange or a hose on the side of the head when fitting the temp sensor. So can't drive it ATM. Thanks for the idea about the start switch, I will do that now, at least that will be something positive for the day. All the switches will be working just how I would like then
yeah that should work ok, a multimeter would make your life much easier! are you 100% sure you are checkign the right fuse? you could pop a wire into the fuse socket to see if you have power there, not sure if the top or bottom pin is the input side to try both!
Yes, Fuse #11? 15 amp - I popped a new one in this morning. I did see a little white residue though? but the old fuse was in tact too. I might nip out and try a wire in the fuse socket like you suggest. I tried the alternator light - blue wire to the LED + on the start switch and had no joy there either I also ran a wire directly from the small terminal on the alternator itself but nothing. All the switches are still working as they should otherwise, aswell as the engine electricals. Bit stumped really, hope I haven't damaged the fusebox somehow.
A little off topic, but I removed all sensors on the side of the head, aswell as the plastic flange, as it was leaking coolant from that area but was difficult to pin point once water came out. Re-sealed them, and started it up and now when I rev it water comes out of the coolant temp sensor - the one that plugs into the plastic flange. Is that just air in the system now escaping?
sorry i should have been more clear on the alternator! what you need to do is put a 12v to the led plus, and run the blue wire to the led - does sound like the fusebox has a bit of corrosion damage, common for mk1/2 of this age unfortunately. while you're checking the fusebox out make sure you have a good earth to D/22, this is the main fusebox earth. re the sensor, you have a knackered sensor or the sensor seal has gone. is it coming out of the sensor itself, or from around the sides?
It was coming from around the sensor from the look of it, can it be sealed in with silicone as a temporary fix? So the Start button LED needs a 12v as normal, but then the Blue alternator/battery warning wire connecting to it aswell? EDIT: Just noticed the LED -ve Going to get a multimeter this afternoon, so will hopefully help identify what is going on The connector plug D looks fine, nothing visible that looked untoward when that was removed. cheers
