Edition 30

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by GVK, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Car passed MOT with no advisories again, door lock still not fixed but it worked on the MOT.

    Must get around to fitting that lock!
     
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  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    got the same job to do on our bora, 3 out of 4 have an intermittent fault of some kind or another plus sometimes the boot motor stops working too :lol:
     
  3. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Since the mk4 VW can't seem to make/fit a decent door lock!
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I heard the issues start when VW started to use lead-free solder, the lead free stuff is less able to cope with shocks as its more brittle apparently. How true that is I'm not sure but it does make sense I guess
     
  5. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    I think my issue is a dead spot on the motor armature, if you get it to work it will work a couple of times and when the drive away locking activates it doesn't 'clunk' as normal just kind of bounces inbetween locking and unlocking.

    Do the dance with the unlock button inside driver's door and pulling the interior handle can coax it into life.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2020
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking at a diagram I have to hand it looks similar to mk4 just more switches inside, so it could be a failed solder joint on the lock/safe sense switch perhaps.

    the passenger lock on our bora does a similar thing but rathert than bouncing it just unlocks itself again.

    on my mk2 after fitting mk4 central locking module and switching on auto lock the locks mental as I hadn't sorted the safe signal :lol:
     
  7. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    The lock isn't cheap, I paid around £150 with some trade discount from my local VW dealer - there are 'new' locks on eBay for £30 or so, but have read threads elsewhere where they either last a few days or last ages. I remember the VW locks being crap and not lasting 3 years when the cars where new!
     
  8. Tristan Forum Junkie

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    I replaced both on mk5 too, and also found a worryingly large broken wire in the loom at the hinge area. Very common.
     
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  9. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Had the car 2 years today. Covered 10k miles in it so far.

    Only things I've done are :

    Both rear ABS sensors & hubs (twice on nsr)
    Left hand intercooler hose kept popping off. (New hose £70!)
    Plugs and coils causing misfire after Stage 1 remap.
    Passenger door lock faulty (new one to fit) (£megabucks)

    So overall not too bad for a 12 year old car.

    [​IMG]Edition 30 by GVKmotorsport, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2020
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  10. stephcasscar Paid Member Paid Member

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    You'll be powder coating the wheels orange next [:D]
     
  11. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    :o
     
  12. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    LOL nope! Hope you're ok mate!
     
  13. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ordered a genuine VCDS cable hex-v2. From Gendan. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

    I've been using OBDeleven which is super handy for simple code reads on the phone, but I want to do some logging as had the dreaded P0299 turbo underboost code. While OBDeleven does all the channels etc, it's difficult to convert to graphs etc. Car still seems to have good power, whether it's just a boost leak or diverter valve I don't know as yet.
    Hopefully not a turbo!

    I hadn't checked the codes since about Christmas - just been out and checked, no p0299, yay! 2x IMRC codes instead - boo! As above car seems to run well, start fine etc.

    In a rare pic with no bird poo.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
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  14. 12valver Forum Member

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    A silver Ed30 still looks great and yours looks a good one.
     
  15. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks Martin!
     
  16. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Been putting off getting this sorted but today was the day I got on with it and fitted my passenger door lock. As some of you will know on a mk5 Golf you don't work on the inside of the door with the inner door card off , you have to take the door skin off the car!

    [​IMG]Door by GVKmotorsport, on Flickr

    All well and good but my door was deadlocked shut and the motor was just bouncing between unlocking and locking, must have taken about hour and a half of banging the door, pressing the unlock button and pulling the inner handle to try and pop it open. Eventually I was going to give up and tried it one last time and it popped open... result!

    Once the door was open and the door skin off you have quite a bit of room to work on the latch. Couple of tips that were useful I got from Humble mechanic's vid on You tube was to turn the TX20 on the door handle 12 times to release the door lock/blank and to set the tension of the handle by putting the spring on the lever inside.



    All sorted.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2020
  17. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Whilst fitting a rear ABS sensor I've managed (heavy handed) to snap the locking tab off the connector that goes onto the sensor

    Anyone know if there is a repair loom for these, cost of and how far does it go into the car?
     
  18. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    apparently is at £44+VAT, but if its just the plug you can probably get that on its own or salvage off a donor car as long as the terminal inside are good. according to ETKA for cars that loom fits the plug is part number 8T0973702 at 7.29+VAT. If pins are damaged it takes micro timer type, they're probably golfd plated but not hard to get if need be
     
  20. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020

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