Morning RJ, Just wondering whether you can offer some advice on the following: I'm in the process of adjusting the injectors because it revs fine but idles quite rough misfiring etc. Found number 4 plug all black switch the injector to number 3 and same happened on 3 which led me to injector adjustment. - is there any way of knowing where the flap should be on idle? - they slightly pulsed fuel at what I thought the idle position was but constant mist fully open. Have you got any tip on adjusting them to get 20ml over 2mins idle and 80ml over 40sec fully open. The next one is electrical symtoms: - when head light switch is plugged in it completely frys the grey and back wire from the plug on the colum to the switch? I've disconnected the what I think is a old resister under the bonnet it's black polo pack shape lol. Thanks for any help Ap
if swapping the injector moves the problem, the issue is with the injector not the metering head that issue sounds like maybe the parking light system is to blame, pop the grey wire out of the ignition switch pin P and try again
Sorry when I swapped the injector I ment with the fuel line line, so I just popped the injector 3 &4 still connect to the fuel lines and changed cylinder. They are brand new bosch too .
ah ok. so yes if you unscrew the allen head bung things near each fuel line, underneath is an adjuster you can use to adjust fuel flow. pop all 4 injectors into measuring containers, wedge air flap slightly open and bridge fuel pump for a set time using a method of your choosing. most convenent would a a switch on 2 long wires poked into relay socket, or you can swap 17/18/100 relay into fuel socket and use ignition switch (pull all black wires from coil) then fiddle. cant remember off hand which way does what, think my guide 16v says it somewhere
Ok mate, I have done this test on full throttle is fine got all about 80ml over 40 secs. Thing I struggle with is know where the flap would sit on idle? Any ideas? Thanks
hm odd. have you set the resting position flush as per my guide? do all injectors spray in a nice cone? maybe its a spark issue rather than fueling, or a compression issue in that cylinder
Morning Rj, I have a few electrical issues with the lights etc. Any ideas? Symtoms; When I plug the headlight switch in passenger side comes on straight away. Grey and black wiring running to from headlight switch the right-side of the colum sets on fire as soon as its plugged in (parking light not plugged in) Indicators don't work off the stork cant hear the relay clicking, it does click off hazard switch. No headlights when switched on, full beam works of the stork. Thanks for any help.
so you removed the grey wire P from the ignition switch? sounds like maybe the stalk is shafted, if you pull it out does it still do it? mak sure headlight switch actually matches the socket, there are at least 4 variations
not usually... did you pull the spline adaptor to get it on and when you did, did you fit the plastic spacer from a mk1 column? though even then, all this usually causes is horn stuck on rather than loom fires
https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-steering-tube-spacer-171419549-jetta-caddy-scirocco-4045-p.asp like I say only required on small spline MK1, and used without the spring also
dont think so, as usually all it'll do is have the horn stick on. can pull the wheel off and see though
Hi RJ, I hope you are well. I'm about to tackle the dash issues I'm hoping you might be able to help. Issues: -Indicator LED slightly on the dash permanent. - indicators not working from the stalk. - indicators work from hazard switch. - drivers side light permanent on - headlights don't work off switch - grey/black wire sets on fire when switch is set to headlights. Could this be the headlight switch? Thanks for any help.
for indicators, check fuse 19, and look for the black/blue wire on hazard switch pin 15 pull the grey wire 'P' from the ignition switch, see if that sorts the sidelight stuck on. ideally pull the whole dash loom out and check it carefully end to end, good chance the grey/black wire melting has damaged other wires in the harness check the headlight switch actually matches the socket, as there are a few versions and not all are compatible. heres the pinout vs wire colour (you may not have them all, just make sure the wires you have match the headlight switch pins) 30 - red - B/23 - live feed 31 - brown - earthed in dash harness 56 - white/black - flasher switch pin 56 and A/9 - headlight feed & pin 2 of fog light relay socket 56D - yellow - dimdip resistor (bin this wire!!!) 58L - grey/black - B/27 and parking light switch PL - left rear light & front side/parking light 58R - grey/red - B/26 and parking light switch PR - right rear light & front side/parking light 58 - grey/green - A/24 - number plate lights, dash light dimmer switch power feed & pin 1 of fog light relay socket 58e - grey - A/26 - power feed for dash light dimmer switch 58b - grey/blue - dash harness and A/1 - dash lights feed NSL - gry/yel - fog switch power, male spade to fog lamp switch wiring X - black/yellow - B/10 & ignition switch pin X - x-over live feed
Hi RJ, Thanks for the reply. Found the issue with the grey/black wire i accidentally put it in terminal 30 whoops. Now its back in 58l think side light and the fire hazard is sorted. Still haven't got main beam and headlights tho?? I will have a look at those things on the indicators. Thanks
