I believe so actually, IIRC the original one was replaced by the 9a one which has an extra outlet you block off with a bung. on that note, a 9a boot will work on a KR if you block the extra outlet with a bung
Hi RJ Just wanted to thank you for all your help over what feels like a eternity lol. Just outside the mot station. Thanks
Hi RJ, I hope you are well. I've taken the caddy out a good couple of times now. When the engine is cold and warming up, runs and idles good. When the engine gets to temperature pulling up to junctions and lights it will cut out when it trys to idle. Any ideas?? I guess the isv is working as its fine when cold. Thanks
first thing I'd check idle switch is making good strong contact when throttle closes, the upper linkage can get sticky or jam if its dirty or the return spring has been pinched when reassembling. once thats been checked over double check the base idle is good. to confirm idle switch probe the black/yellow wire at isv module, it should have ignition live. check this on a cold and hot engine as well in case something is expanding with heat or whatever
Ok will check wiring, the throttle is nice and free to activate isv switch. If that's all OK , could it be air fuel mixtures not right? As when cold it uses 5th injector. Have you got any tips on adjusting the injectors? Thanks
the 5th injector is only fired while cranking over or hard throttle input when engine is stone cold, so it wont be down to that
The wur is extremely old, all I've done is a resistance test. If it is wur could I just get a repair kit off ebay?
hopefully one of these will do you: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223553775462 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223317221661
Hi RJ, I've ordered the below kit for the WUR. Once I have rechecked the resistance, is there anything else I need to look out for to spot to determine whether its been working correctly? Thanks
just anything obvious really, its pretty simple bimetalic strip with extra heater to help it warm up as well as it using engine heat
Hi RJ, Just a quick question, if the wur was not functioning properly, would that effect the fuel flow through the injectors when testing with relay swapped for testing purposes? Or is it only active when the engine is running? Thanks
what the wur does is adjust the control pressure inside the metering head, in a nutshell this changes how much the air flap can move the pin inside the fuel metering head for any given flow of air so if it failed it would mess up how much fuel is injected either all or some of the time depending on the state of it. it couldnt block fuel flow out of the injectors altogether as even when closed off entirely the injectors can still spray but obv this would mean the fuel delivery would be totally messed up
Hi mate, hope you are well. I'm in the process of sorting my horn out. I've put the spacer so the horn isn't constantly on so I know the horn works. I wired up the switch and nothing happens. Sorry this might sound dumb, when I bridge the spade connector for the switch to the body earth the horn sounds. But nothing happens when plugged into the switch. Am I missing something stupid? Thanks
