did I remember you saying your car is listed as a 16v on the logbook? if its been converted you might worth while checking the loom back to the fusebox
i think my dad has some of these up at the unit,ill check it out tommorow,thanks m8 aye,it was just a mistake on the log book m8
in the dealer man it will show a pic of it and the part number will be VAG.... i've got too many to list but i will dig them out and see if i can remember
not sure if this helps or not any idea's on what my problem could be motorhead? googles just confusing me,one link came up as break out a beer,so im gonna go get the last can of bud Edited by: riley
the 1598 boxes are a suitcases full , or should I say 3/4 full!! it's a box that has the leads to the correct ECU/module connector, they all start 1598- then a number. it allows you to easily connect to the right pin while doing diagnostic work. rather than fiddling with 2 sets of probes at 2 locations, with one pair of hands pm me later the engine code, year I'll have a look tommorow for you Edited by: Crispy 8V
cheers crispy,its a 92 pg engine code. did some testing (well fannying about tbh) at dinner time. 1/it was ticking over fine,when i unplugged the lambda the rough running/farting happened,plug it back in and it slowly sorts itself out. 2/also,i am getting around 13 volts from the lambda heater wire on the plug,so that seems alright. 3/when i unplug the c/o pot,nothing much happens,just a very slight change in engine tone,hardly noticeable on the rev counter. i checked for voltage at the 3 pin c/o pot plug,dunno why the feck i did tbh? on 2 pins theres 5.4 volts,and on the 3rd theres 0.02 or something,sound ok? 4/what the feck is the sensor thing on the pipe on the end of the fuel rail? nothing at all happens when i unplug this. and voltage wise at the plug theres 0.05 volts i think. can i test the sensor thing across the 2 pins for ohms? i am seriously fecked off with it now,having no money isnt helping but even when im using other means to buy/replace things,it makes feck all difference anyway
i think the voltage of 0.02 and 0.05 is too low. that's what I get at my low level coolant sender and it's never worked even when half my coolant is missing. I think most voltages should be battery voltages???
The sensor at the fuel rail is just a fuel pressure switch - I used to know what it did but I've forgotten! I've had a couple of 8v MK2's with this fitted for some reason, neither connected to anything.......
It`s for priming the fuel pump with the engine off to prevent vapour lock, works with the afterun fan switch circuit. Reily, have you done the co in basic settings mode? sounds like the base fuel map is way too rich and it relys in the lambda closed loop control to bring it back into line? Have you tried a different FPReg on it, if the reg was sticking causing more than 3 - 3.5 bar at the injectors this would make the car overfuel, the Lambda feedback to the ECU would tell it to trim fuel, but if this had an intermittent fault you`d get gross overfueling on tickover..
i dont know tbh keith,ive been told diffarent ways to do it,and no one seems to know the correct way been told you just turn the c/o pot? and get as near to 0.5% as you can on an exhaust gas aniliser and been told,you need to go into settings mode(which makes my c/o reading go off the scale on the machine),and somehow set it that way. even this basic settings shite winds me up now,what is the propper fuckin way? 1/rev twice above 2.5k,disconnect bts,rev 3 times above 2.5k? 2/rev 3 times above 3k,disconnect bts,rev 3 times above 3k? 3/disconnect bts,rev above 3k twice? 3 times? for fucks sake 4/simply click the closed throttle microswitch 2 times? or is it 3? what a load of shite i f**kkin hate it i swear,these engines are a feckin joke(slow/even with a charger bolted on? whats the feckin point? /expensive/hard to work on) and the car itself,corrado,best front wheel drive car ever bollocks ! 6 months of ownership>-water pump/circlips coming off gear linkage/3! yes THREE!! FUCKIN FUEL LEAKS!/alternator bearings gone/charger dead after 11k miles/door handles/heater cables snapped/heater motor gone noisy/rear leccy spoiler died/rev counter died/ecu died/various chips died/normal stupid roof trim coming off etc etc etc.... i mean how feckin shit is it that a crank bolt can loosen/snap and feckin kill your engine? how shite is it that the window switches always die ? why? because the stupid rain trims on the roof do absolutely fuck all you cant even wash the car and have the windows open an hour later,i could go on and on and on and feckin on! about how crap these things are but most people will probably just dismiss it,anyway, ive just totally given up on it.
Warm car up to temp, disconnect blue CTS with engine idleing, rev to 3k 3 times and you`re in. If the engine goes crazy rich with the cts pulled (this also disables o2 closed loop), then you`ve got a settings or chip problem, wind the CO pot right out to 2000 ohms and if it`s still rich at that then either the ECU is ignoring the C0-pot, the injectors are leaking or the map on the chip you have is wrong for your setup. Have you tried a FPR on it? it`s a possibility it can rupture internally and feed unmetered fuel into the intake though the vac hose. I could never lean mine out at idle properly, but I`v put that down to the cams (the ecu must have tought it was at 1/2 throttle from the MAP sensor readings..).
havent tried an fpr keith,is one from a pb engined golf the same 3.5bar/spec? its just that i have one knockin about thats all. oh,today i found a slight split in the pipe from isv-inlet manifold,dont think its the problem though,the split isnt even all the way through. and its not a sticky tappet,earlier in the pissing down rain i took the cam out/tappets out/and cleaned em as per tsc's faq,did it all under torch light and even managed to get the cambelt back on in the right place first time,all went smoothly for once anyway it sounded crap for a bit then quietened down,just as it started fuckin farting neil.
PB will be a 3bar jobby and won`t fuel properly under boost I would of though, worth trying a FPR on it as a last resort.
sorry keith,i meant the standard 3 bar fpr,it is 3bar the g60's have as standard aint it? replaced the pipe that wasnt split today,no change still. can only manage trying things that dont cost money now.
You could try the PB and drive off boost, but don`t mash the pedal because the PB one probably isn`t designed for on boost enrichment? Or if you mean the stock G60 PG jobby it`s worth a shot. Edited by: KeithMac
