those compression tests look alright riley as they are pretty uniform. have you looked on the back of the instruction pack?? tells you what it means. Do it with a teaspoon of oil in also, will indicate lower engine trouble if there is any. you find me a hazard switch?
you wouldnt believe how good it is to hear that thank feck somethings actually right on this thing! i may do a wet test tommorow for the hell of it,im sort of fannying about now rather than really trying to find the problem,dont know what to do really hazard switch! feckinell,i knew i forgot sommet yesterday i think it was,its just finding stuff at the mo thats hard work,units a right mess with the probs im having and wotnot. ill have a look tommorow for definate m8
Yep.. Not being able to see tdc on the flywheel means it`s either being bolted on wrong (maybe possible) or the marking on the dampener plulley is off. I`d get a long screwdriver down number 1 sparkplug and feel for TDC, then check the flywheel and crank marker. At idle the advance is at it`s lowest, could possibly be jumping spark in the dizzy to the next cylinder? if you`ve ignition timed it with the wrong marks? Seems unlikely though if you got 130 out of it..
I've just sat and read the lot of this tread... Bloody hell dont give up on it Riley and just as so many folks say it's absolutely guaranteed to be summat daft. My heart goes out to you m8... Has anybone near you got VAG-Com? If you can find the 2x2 connectors you could log the data that each of the engine sensors sends back to the ECU. TBH a better way to check for intermittent wiring or sensor faults is to fit a breakout box and get an Oscilloscope and monitor the ECU signals as VAG-Com wont catch all but the scope will have a high enough frequency response to show interference or spiking or high frequency itermittent electrical faults. Are there no electical engineers on here that can lend a portable didital storage scope or just an old scope for the purposes of test? If the timing goes out (like it sounds it is) and goes rich then it sounds like the basic injection time and associated timing is not being calculated correctly by the ECU so it's either a f3ked ECU, itermittent wiring or an intermittend sensor fault. I don't know enough about the G60 management tho and I wish I did... This poo must be heartbreakin but stick with it Riley. Cant rememeber - Have you tried a new ECU? - It could be a faulty MAP sensor - If it's intermittently recording an incorrect inlet pressure then it's never gona run right and the ECU will probably swing the timing all over the place in an attempt to compensate - I didn't hear or see the vids so I dunno. The reason I say the previous is that you mentioned that it hangs on the revs which could possibly point to a faulty MAP sensor? Just something else to check tho. If you were up here I'd be round at my pops beggin to borrow a scope and all his test gear but I'm up in Edinburgh. I'll keep all my extremities crossed for you. Edited by: G60Dub
i dont know of anyone with vag-com but i have had an led hooked up to the previous ecu and it showed a few faults,but yet all the sensors are new,and ive checked them time and time again with a leccy tester and theyre fine the breakout box idea was mentioned earlier,forgot about it actually,but i wouldnt know the first thing about it its on the 3rd i think? ecu now with a standard chip,the revs dont seem to hang around anymore since i reset the idle to 880ish rpm... thanks for taking the time to read through m8 its got to a stage now where i really cant see it ever being sorted tbh,i just dont know enough about how these things work. you mention the timing swinging,it does seem like thats whats happening,a guy who had a timing light on it said the timing jumped off the scale when it farted.what that means i dont know anyway,heres a video of it,please watch it again guys,what the hell has happened to my car yeah,ill get the piston as high as i can? and see where the marks are at the crank/flywheel. i cant believe how big this thread is if the ignition timing was out a little,i dont think it would cause this would it? i mean reading off the sns site etc its a case of losing/gaining a bit of top end power etc...the ususal ign timing probs,but this is like its i dunno cheers,neil.
did that today keith,well i went off the crank pully being lined up,and the rotor points at number 1 neil.
If the timing is correct and it runs okay when it's not doin it fartin ting then that would tend to suggest some sensor is giving spurious output or there's an intermittent electrical problem and it's causing the ECU to lose the plot. Have you ruled out faults with the knock sensor/s? TBH if you could get: 1. A breakout box 2. A Club Member who has good electrical knowledge, an Oscilloscope and a selfless attitude - Post in the wanted section... Soz just my bad humour! You could then, when the fault occurs, systematically monitor realtime each of the ECU inputs and outputs to help trace the issue. However do it with a breakout box as that will allow you to see what the ECU is seeing and outputting. In short you will be able to monitor the hall triggers, injector duration, coolant temp, IAT, timing swing blah blah... You can then see exactly what the ECU is, or isnt, doing or to put it another way; if you see anything irregular it could help pinpoint the issue or at least narrow the search down. Even a specialist with summat like krypton tune may be able to help? You can get test documentation from www.erwin.de; it's not particularly expensive and will give you sufficient info to perform an exhaustive check of the loom wiring.To be 100% sure I'd do it with a scope as you can only do so much with multimeters. If the timing is suddenly swinging violently it would suggest that the engine suddenly thinks it's running way richer than it is - does the timing advance or retard when the prob occurs? If advance then it prob thinks its running incredibly rich which in turn tends to suggest the gremlin islocated in the engine load wiring but I assume the G60 uses MAP and TPS to calculate basic injection time? A dodgy thottle position sensor or associated wiring perhaps? Have you checked the integrity of the VAC hose to the MAP sensor?Somebody please correct me if I am wrong... I'm just offering my grey matter to the cause.
riley: it could be worth checking your lambda probe wires are in good order, the signal to the ecu is a low voltage and sensitive to bad connections. Also the heater supply needs to be low resistance (thick cable, good connections) for the high current it takes. Also: long shot, i think some of the lambda probe heaters are earthed through the exhaust itself, if you have that system, is that a good earth connection back through the block to the battery? Other probes have a seperate earth flying lead by the signal elecrical plug, if you have that system is that earth good all the way back to the battery?
edit:sorry g60dub and mark25,ive read your posts but im just so confused and fecked off... [:^(] [:^(] [:^(] [:^(] ive had enough(again! ) todays pointless fuckin about consisted of: swap dizzy for another spare i got,incase the one i borrowed was fecked. re fit the old ecu with the sns stage 5 chip. got engine at tdc,marked the flywheel. left it running to get it upto temp. set ignition timing to 6deg @2250 rpm with bts disconnected. i revved it 3 times before re fitting bts,and it was farting straight away,revved it when i re connected bts and it revved alright. turned it off,tidied up and locked up unit. started car to drive home and it was farting. im never gonna sort it,i fuckin hate it [:^(] im definately not touching the piece of shit again,im sick of it. but if anyone out there would like to have a look out of the goodness of there heart id really really appreciate it. and i dont have any money,i mean for fucks sake i owned the mk1 for nearly 6 years and spent over 11k on it,ive had the rado just over 6 months and ive already blown about 3k on it i reckon,and it aint like ive physically got the cash,im in debt through owning the pile of junk,and im pissed off. neil. Edited by: riley
ps:gareth m8,i had a look for a hazard switch,i must have thrown it away,ive only got a brand new genuine one which i bought for the mk1. neil.
yeah go for it if its no trouble m8,cheers may give someone an idea or another suggestion as to whats wrong or something? im not touching it again though...
ah,i dont really know tbh m8,leave it if you want(thanks for offering ),i dont know what the hell i need to test,i just know that im getting nearer and nearer to smashing it to fuckin bits with a hammer unless someone else can make a suggestion? as to what to put up? maybe testing...??? i really dont know. cheers m8.
hi just reading the tail end of this , the g60 hasn't got a tps ,its's got an idle switch and a full throttle switch on the throttle body, can't remember where there is an earth for the lamda probe but its not through the exhaust (possibly some where not too far away from the 4 contact connector )i'll pear underneath mine tonight, i feel for you mate there is nothing worse than not being able to find and fix a fault on your pride and joy
mikey,cheers for the doc,ive had a read through,ill probably try a couple things. mk1 16v,tell me about it m8,im pretty much given up now tbh. the latest news is that the flywheel should be right,and that the crank pully has to line up,which mine dosnt so? feck knows.the pully keyway is mint. ive also tried the cam timing a tooth either way,no change... tsc,received the fpr today,thanks a lot m8. and trev,ill possibly post your ecu back soon,i dont think i need it now,thanks a lot for lending it to me. neil.(pretty much given up)
Can I now propose that we have an Official Club GTI Fix Riley's G60 Meet? Venue: Riley's house. When: As soon as! Tea and biscuits to be provided. Bring own sleeping bag, beer and tools...
