I dunno, but my thoughts are that you've got the cold start setting in the ECU, which would run for the initial start up and a slight period after it, you then have the warm up period when it will run slightly rich for a while (in my experience VAG always overdo the rich running bit tbh) and then you would have the normal running settings once up to temp. It just seems to me like an unhappy electronic something if it always starts popping etc then clears soon afterwards. Does it run 100% fine once it's cleared? Oh, and it's not running bosch spark plugs is it? i had a set in my old rocco for about 500miles before throwing them in the bin, cold running was so bad i was affraid to run the car until it heated up, and my mate had the same with his golf at the same time. just a thought.
seems to run ok once its stopped fuckin about,just been out in it earlier,no probs at all. then got in it to come home and it was doing it its got the vw specified bosch w6dpo plugs in it. ive really fallen out with it [:^(] it just feels horrible to drive. i just wanna sort it to sell it if anything,cant be arssed anymore... cheers,neil.
is there a way i can check for a sticky tappet guys? heres the vid again,if it still works? Edited by: riley
You may be lucky and be able to observe it while turning the engine over by hand with the rocker cover off. I say lucky at at that speed of rotation you are giving the valve spring more time to overcome any stiction in the valve or follower guide. Best bet is to try a compression test first cold and then hot - prefferable around the time of a backfiring session. GVK had a good idea regards removing plug leads while it is backfiring as this could narrow down your search for problems.
aye,i would have tried the plug leads yesterday but i had no rubber gloves or good leccy grips i was wondering about turning the crank with the rocker cover off,ill give it a try i think. i dont have a compression tester i should buy some more tools really! thanks m8 neil.
At a guess i would say it's going off more than one pot while it's misfiring, sounds like random pots are firing intermitantly to me.
yeah,now you mention it,it does sound sort of bouncy as if a misfire is jumping around the cylinders... that would rule out a sticky tappet though,and point to sommet more electrical but what? ive tried everything,dizzy,ecu,coil,cap,rotor,all and i mean all! sensors are working fine,ive tested all earths for good continuity etc etc... im gonna have a look later today if i get chance. cheers guys,neil.
well,i got nice and wet earlier,and i got a right fuckin belt off an ht lead too,my arm felt like shit for ages after.i nearly smashed the car to pieces anyway,when the problem was happening,i could take any lead off with no diffarence.and the spark from the lead to the head was intermittent and looked weak to me on all leads. i didnt get chance to try anything else because i got pissed off and just lost my rag. ive had enough,im just gonna fuckin leave it and carry on running it into the ground. cheers for trying to help guys. after a good few topics/loads of money i dont have/people looking at it/new parts,its time to give up. neil. Edited by: riley
i really dont know m8 [:^(] i dont think it will be with being intermittent and clearing up.cheers for the suggestion though. fuck it anyway,ill sell it to someone outside the vw scene,let em view it once warmed up or sommet,ive been ripped off before,being nice and honest gets ya nowhere...fuck em.
Should go into closed loop when the oil hits 50c, controlled by the by Coolant sensor. Is it the stock digi chip? I`d say at this point to try an engine loom in it for testing, or go though yours completely from Fusebox/ecu to all sensors etc. ECU will run rich in fault mode if the car`s not charging propely, ahve you had a voltmeter over the battery while it`s doing the fault, unser 13v would be suspect? Sounds like an electical fault to me. As you say the isv re-route is fine, I`m running mine open filtered and it does it`s job.
If the ecu was firing sparks at the wrong time, with the inlet valves still slightly open you`d get popping out of the exhaust, or if one lead was arcing out onto another but that`s unlikely.
Are you getting 12v across the two white (heating) wires to the lambda probe OK? It won't run right if it's not hot, and if you're running without a cat (cat produces a lot of heat) then a probe with the heater not working would take ages to heat up on exhaust gases alone - which the ECU might not like. If that put it in limp mode it sprays in about 1/4 more fuel than normal, which would make it smoke. Free to check, anyway, before you torch it!
on the replacement sns at the mo keith,theres a full loom on ebay at the minute but ive no cash cant carry on putting things on the card. havent had a voltmeter on the battery while it happens,will try it sometime.cheers keith tsc,am i right in thinking that,it dosnt matter which way round the 2 heating wires go? say the loom was split to be repaired,could you put them either way? i was told this wouldnt matter but? im not so sure,just thinking about it now... cheers guys,i somehow still have a wanting to sort it neil. Edited by: riley
have you actualy spoke with any sns guys?? sam and danny in usa are pretty clever and bilal is alright maybe they could confirm if the ecu can cause your probs
i havent m8,ive lost get up and go attitude to sorting it tbh,a few times in fact forgot to add,today i threw the leads/cap and rotor arm on from the cab which runs mint,no change,theyre all new anyway but can only try i guess. some things i should look into then? 1/lambda heater wiring? can it go either way? 2/ecu and fuel pump relays? 3/possible sticking valves or is that a no go you think? 4/voltage loss while the fault happens through something else being at fault? 5/injector loom/cheers pb. 6/anything else? cheers,neil. Edited by: riley
It can go either way - all you need is a (good) earth on one side, and a good 12v on the other. I'd rule out the relays - unlikely to clear once it warms up. Sticky valves is entirely possible - a garage will charge buttons to give it a compression test, they'll do it while you wait, only takes 10 mins..... Voltage loss is another possible - the ECU does the same "extra fuel" thing if the voltage falls low. It can also go mental in other aspects. I haven't read the whole history, just this thread - but have you tried a known good un-chipped ECU? I can post you one over to try if you need, no biggie if it dies due to a fault on the car, I have plenty of G60 ones. And if it works for a while with a fresh ECU before killing it then you know that something is killing ECU's. Which is somewhere to go from! But yeah, The SNS guys I mentioned on the vortex are very helpful to speak to, sound as a pound the pair of them. I'd be more inclined to contact them, than Bilal.
