Have you checked for fault codes from the ECU? I bet this is something that you've already tried right at the start, and me suggesting it is just taking things around in circles, but thought I'd ask.
Whatever you do, don't sell it........it's going to be a simple fault, just one you haven't found yet. I remember when My Mk2 8v Digi was acting up, for god knows how long....... it would start, run for a few seconds then die. I changed EVERTHING (had a spare car the same year), tested everything I could possibly test (and I've plenty of tools for testing!), and still no joy. Took me weeks of cursing at it and freezing in the garage. Then one day I decided to change the engine loom just in case, as it really was the only thing I hadn't swapped. Took ten minutes to change, and it fired first turn of the key and ran like a dream 'til I rolled the bastard a couple of times a while later. Tested the old loom for faults, and could find nothing wrong with it at all....... You KNOW you'll hate yourself for selling it, just to find that the next owner changed a 20 component or fixed a broken wire, and got it going like a champ.....
Also, you'll take safety in the knowledge you've replaced half the car, and if any other part fails, you can eliminate the parts you've replaced.
thanks guys once of a day id have taken a hammer to it,shame ive grown up? it is getting me down though... ps:cheers pigbladder. trev,no probs,appreciate ALL suggestions/help m8 but you cant read fault codes from em,well,only the abs. tsc,i have tried another ecu,the old one is just fecked,as soon as i plug it in (with any chip) it backfires/pops 110% of the time,undriveable like when i first put this ecu on (with standard chip),it was ok and then when i put the sns back in it started again,so then... i put the old superchip in and it was alright after being timed up. but now the problem is back,and thinking about it,seems to be getting worse. i dont know wether its worth trying another ecu or not? what ya think m8? what do you suggest i try next? what would you do? compression test? check battery voltage? thanks again
Unplug your O2 Sensor ( lambda for you guys? ) Give it a go, if your problem goes away it's the harness or the probe. You did make mention of playing with the wires on the harness, seems like you have checked damn near everything else out. Have fun guys. Man if you type p i s s the word filters get it, isn't that UK for drunk or drinking. Gonna try another one just in case, fanny BTW that is a small rucksac over here. Edited by: Pigsdofly
Riley, you CAN read fault codes from the G60 ECU. You cannot from Digifant II - but with Digifant I (as in G60), the software is in there to record and spit out fault codes. All you need is a resistor and a LED. Just find the correct wire that comes from pin 20 of the ECU's connector - I believe that this wire finds its way under the dash somewhere. Reading the fault codes is a matter of shorting that wire to ground briefly and then watching the LED blink on and off. Surprisingly easy. Gotta dash but can tell you how to do it when I get back tonight or someone else will...
Check yer voltages at the battery, and then a compression test I would say........ a multimeter to check is only a fiver, and compression test will be buttons at a proper "local" garage. They might even lend you their tester, maybe ask for a deposit on it to make sure you bring it back.......
cheers m8 i did unplug the lambda on the first day of the problem and there was no change trev,you're spot on m8! you just reminded me of a link i had hidden on my pc! here,how to build a reader! ive even replaced that m8,and since then the battery light is on untill i blip the throttle above 1500ish rpm cheers tsc,i have checked the voltages and all are ok,but havent been able to check them while the fault is there...i need to catch it happening and jump out the car i reckon! thanks guys,was gonna have a look today but couldnt really be bothered
about checking the voltage when the prob is there, id get a multi meter from the market/pound shop, you can get real cheap ones...wire it in to show battery voltage then just flick it on when the problem occurs there must be a slight fault with your alt, they should kick in before 1500 revs
Ive got the self same problem on my Valver with my new GSF Voltage regulator...reckon its got something to do with the fact the new one has 14.5v on it whereas the old one is a 14v item.
i got gsf ones on mine...they both okay nip into a freindly electrical place, they'l tell ya whats wrong
Depends on how new the Voltage reg is...the new stock seem to be 14.5v jobbies giving these "Battery light stays on" symptoms...... My prob has only occurred since fitting this new 14.5v reg, exactly the same as Neil it seems!
damn good idea pb,in fact ive just thought,ive got a duostyling volt gauge in the car havent noticed anything weird with it like... ill wire my test meter up direct to the alternator anyway i think just to be sure. yeah,same prob by the sounds of it m8,but my old one also said 14.5v i would like to sort this slight problem,just paranoid about bad voltages especially when the ecu dosnt like it saying that though,my main problem appeared way before this one cheers,neil.
today i unplugged the lambda,and it really drove like crap! struggled to rev and wouldnt pick up,so im guessing that shows the lambda/harness to be good... and another thing i did was to,hard wire my multimeter/leccy tester into the car,i took power from the alternator and with the car running it shows 13.8 volts which dosnt change when the problem happens. and scrub the above about the 14v/14.5v regs,the old one was 14v! gonna have a go at reading the ecu i think. and a question about testing the compression, will it not be hard to catch the fault happening? as i dont know its there unless the cars running? cheers,neil.
