Funkbaron's MK2 Golf 24v V6 (Now Breaking)

nice work, but it annoys the **** out of me when people move the expansion tank, totally unnecessary.

 

I have all of the old VR6 pipe work to just use the mk3 coolant flange, coolant pipes and mk3 VR tank. But, given the mk4 pipes all work in a mk2 (ie they fit to a raddo VR rad and to the heater matrix with minor mods) and the mk2 has threaded bosses roughly where you'd want the mk4 tank bracket, it seems stupid not just to run the mk4 setup "as is". Works perfectly, can't see why you should find it annoying Phat

 

because it's only there on a mk4 because of the air box location. it already has the pipes in the right place for the mk2, and a lod of metal garbaage taking it around the back of the engine. just ditch that lot and connect it up. there is no advantage whatsoever in moving it.

 

See what you're saying - but i did this as a factory look swap. I'm running the factory airbox, which would leave room for a mk2 located header tank, but decided to use the mk4 one as work-load to move it only involved a simple bracket and with that all the mk4 pipes plumbed straight up. Too easy not to bother if you have all the mk4 pipes. Going from Vr6 to 24v without the mk4 pipes I'd have gone your way, but as I had them, why not. I've not seen many with the mk4 tank plumbed in as it should be in a mk4 bay - most use 12v VR6 pipes - it's just as easy either way.

 

Any daylight pics of the finished instrument cluster? Looks wicked all lit up in blue and red though! nice work.

PS thanks again for the UJ gaiter - it was as mint as you said it was and saved my bacon!

Look forward to seeing you soon (MOT early next week hopefully wish me luck)

 

The cluster needs to come back out to sort out the wiring for the brake fluid and handbrake senders - I'll take pics then....several people (with mk3 swaps) have asked me to make them clusters off the back of it, so I can deffo say it looks spot-on!

No probs with the UJ boot and good luck with your MOT.

 

Lovely work. You must be very proud of this. The work on the instrument cluster is a nice touch.

 

Good progress. Looks nice.

 

Cheers Trev - yep, very happy with this build

 

A dam fine looking build!!

 

Hi,

Been following this with great interest. Couple of questions i can't find answers too.

1 - What have you used fuel pump wise? I presumed 12v VR parts (as it was already converted), i am doing this conversion into a digifant 16v ABF engined car. Would the pump be up to the job?

2 - Is there any reason you choose the downpipe conversion manifold over the full 6 branch conversion manifold?

3 - Does the wiring go straight into the fusebox once you have thinned this out or will you need to use a 12v fusebox?

Sorry for this seeming so formal but its just 2 of the things that i have wondered! A very nice build being carried out to a high standard!

Thanks. Ben

 

Well, the answers are all in the thread somewhere...although the build thread was never really written as a "How To"

1. Yes, I have used the VR6 fuel pump in a mk3 fuel tank which produces the same 4bar pressure as the 24v pump. The ABF pump would probably be OK, but it isn't 4BAR, more like 3BAR - use a proper VR one if you can.

2. Mine is the full 6 branch setup from Storm I beleive possibly C&R (could be wrong) do a downpipe conversion kit which will attach to the mk4 manifolds and then into a mk3 flange. The 6-branch is going to be better obviously, but costs more.

3. A CE2 box is a CE2 box btw, no matter what car it comes from mk2 8v GTI or mk3 12v VR6. I have used my mk2 CE2 fusebox to run clocks, starter motor, etc. through various plugs - most of it can be seen in the pics in this thread, around page 4-5. What isn't seen in that loom is an additional white engine harness plug I needed, and the two pin connector for the clutch switch which needs to be added in to make it idle properly. Then I have used a Durite 8 way fusebox to control the mk4 relay plate with all of it utilised...there's probably a dozen ways you could configure the wiring, for me this seemed the most logical. You'll have to read all the diagrams and work out your method as you see fit.

HTH

 

Right, so my car looked like it was rammed with fairy-lights for interior illumination: VDO's were orange, mk2 switches were green, clocks and my stereo were red/blue - it looked a bit crap. If it was a track car, or something I didn't give a damn about, I'd have left it. But, as a self-confessed perfectionist and continuing with my OEM+ theme, I wanted all the lights to match and make everything look like a more factory install. So, I bought some blue LED components to swap in. Today, I was hanging out my ass with a hangover, and i find soldering therapeutic...so thought it was the a good job to get sorted. Bad idea - it's very fiddly and the leccy window switches can be a pain to piece back together...

VAG VDO gauges cannot be split open, so removing the orange filters isn't an option here - a bright LED shines through though. I've used a wedge type LED which plugs straight into the VDO bulb holders.



The internals of the switches vary. The fog/heated window switches have 2 bulbs, one to light up the switch symbol, another to light up the orange "ON" indicator at the bottom of the switch and the headlight and window switches just the one bulb. You need to find the +/- of the bulb to be swapped and remove it, as LEDs are polarity dependent. Here's a shot of a dismantled heated window switch, with LED and resistor.



With the switch dismantled I removed the green filter - blue through a green filter would give a turqouise colour. Filters just prise out with a small flat bladed screw driver. The resistor is soldered to the longest leg (+) of the LED, then covered in heat shrink and soldered to the positive terminal of the bulb holder. It's a fiddly job. The electric window switches are the toughest - they dismantle totally from the front, so you need to pull the bulb out, cut the wires right by the bulb, then solder those wires to the LED and tuck them out the way. Then, if you try to push the leccy window front back in, the internals jump all over the place - you need to push them back in in the ON position so the spring loaded connections are held in place firmly. In all cases, the plastic bulb holders had to be cut back to allow the LED to sit in a location that didn't hinder switch function.



The photos don't do the VDO gauges justice - the needles light up pale blue and the gauges are bright. Looks so much better like this.



The whole dash...

 

Looks great! I didn't realise that the superbright LED's would be enough to shine through the orange filters. What brightness (mcd) are they?

 

Thanks for your response, much appreciated!!

VR6 fuel pump it is! Nice update as well on the colour changing, good addition!

 

Nice work, none of my VDO gauges bulbs work, where did you get the LED's from?

 

looking good barry

 

They are rated at 6 lumen - like I say the VDO's are far brighter than the pic shows and the switches nowhere near as bright as the pic illustrates - they look like they're lit with neons In fact they're the same dark blue as the clocks/heater panel/vdo's. I may try to take a better shot, must a setting on my camera to adjust.

I got mine from ebay - Maplins should also sell them.

For the VDO's you want type 74, wide angle, maximum lumen rating - they are direct swap.

 

illumination looks good
how did you go about doing the heater control illumination

 

The heater panel was a bit awkward. It's not easy to split apart, so I decided to cut the section where the two pin plug/bulb housing is from the back. I then pulled the bulb housing out from the bit i cut out, drilled two small holes, ran wires through these with a suitable spare two pin male plug and it was soldered to a sqaure type ultra-bright LED with resistor....bonded back together, it looks spot-on, same match for the mk4 clocks.