Loctite info thread

Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment & Fasteners' started by A.N. Other, Feb 15, 2009.

  1. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Thought it might be worth a thread on Loctite variations?

    It's taken me ages to work out what to use, because there are confusing variations.

    People seem to work off colours and the colours ("yeah you want blue, mate") but these are different between brands.

    And the blue that you see on fresh M8 brake caliper bolts, I'm not convinced it's Loctite blue, due to the heat from brakes etc..

    Common automotive ones in bold

    Type Name Strength Colour Temp range Described use
    222 Screwlock Low strength Purple Replaced 221
    225 Screwlock Low/medium Purple Between screwlock and studlock
    2400 Medium strength Blue It is designed for stainless steel and plated surfaces.
    243 Threadlocker Oil Resistant Medium Strength Blue sub 150C Very general, appears watery. Designed for moderate thread holding. Easy to undo. Replaced 242. 24 hours curing to reach full strength.
    2432 Medium strength Blue It is designed for titanium surfaces.
    246 High strength/high temp applications. (ie, brake components, clutch pressure plate, etc).
    248 Threadlocker Oil Resistant Medium Strength Blue to 150C Wax stick version of 243 for use overhead. Designed for moderate thread holding. Easy to undo.
    262 Threadlocker Oil Resistant Medium to High TBC high temperature surface insensitive.Particularly suitable for heavy duty applications such as bolts used in transmissions, construction equipment or railroad assemblies where resistance to heavy shock, vibration and stress level is required along with exposure to elevated temperatures.
    2620 Medium/High strength Red It is a paste and designed for extreme high temperatures.
    266 Threadlocker Oil Resistant High Strength Blue high temperature Permanent threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4" (20 mm) in diameter. Excellent for preventing rust and corrosion in extreme chemical/environmental conditions.
    268 ? High Strength Red Wax stick designed for moderate thread holding.
    270 Studlock High Strength Green sub 150C Designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metalsurfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Fairly aggressive, useful for manifold studs, wheel studs, and other fasteners which you really do not want moving. Avoid using on small screws. On undoing, work backwards and forwards to crumble the cured compound. Otherwise studs/bolts could have too great a build up of crud in the turning threads, tighten and then snap. Had this used for a diff bolt build several years back. 24 hours curing to reach full strength.
    2701 High strength Green It is designed for hot oil conditions.
    271 Threadlocker Oil Resistant High Strength Red AP supply 271 in their brake kits - caliper to bracket mounts.
    2760 High strength Red It is suited for heavy duty applications such as bolts used in transmissions assemblies where heavy shock and stress levels are encountered.
    278 Threadlocker Oil Resistant High Strength TBC -55C - +200C Oil resistant version of 270.
    290 ? Medium/high strength Green It is low viscosity and will creep into already assemble fastenings. The product can also fill porosity in welds, castings and powdered metal parts. Breakaway torque for 290 is 30Nm.
    510 High Temp Gasket Can be used on it`s own or with `paper` gaskets.
    577 Thread Sealant A liquid version of PTFE thread sealing tape. For gen purpose pipe sealing up to 3 inches. Seals against water, gas, fluid and pneumatic systems. Not suitable for copper / brass carrying hot water or steam or plastic fittings.
    603 Retaining compound High strength Low viscosity. Tolerant of oil and other contamination. Seals and secures cylindrical assemblies up to 0.15mm/0.005" diametral clearance. Fixtures in 10 minutes. Prevents fretting and corrosion of metal assemblies.
    641 Bearing Fit retaining compound to 150C Recommended for parts that will need subsequent dismantling i.e. retention of bearings onto shafts and into housings. Ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum gap clearance up to 0.1mm. Provides handling strength in 30 minutes.
    648 Retaining compound High temp. 175C

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Please keep adding...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 13, 2013
  2. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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  3. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    We use 243 at work on semi-permanent fixings (upto M16 and 400Nm+), and I can tell you it is tough stuff!

    Said M16 bolts are an absolute b*stard to undo. Tight all the way, due to the Loctite residue, even when worked back and forth.

    We only use 270 on true permanent fixings (ie, it`ll never be undone).

    It`s a lot stronger than 243, so I wouldn`t recommend it on wheelbolts TBH.

    In general, 243 is all you`ll need on car components, that aren`t subject to high heat.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  4. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I find 243 watery and unconvincing. Maybe it's very stealth!

    I'm still looking for the equivalent of what you see on brake caliper bolts. Really coarse paste in appearance.

    Quickest pic I could find:

    [​IMG]


    I found 248, which is like a Pritt Stick tube, in Halfords today.

    [​IMG]

    Any experience of it?
     
  5. FaTT mk1 Forum Member

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    what about the red stuff?
     
  6. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I've seen it, but I ain't got a clue when 'red' is red and when it isn't !!

    There's some yellow, high heat bearing retainer I've used on a couple of things, but will need to check the bottle no.
     
  7. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    270/271 are (regardless of colour) termed as a `studlock`, ie; you`d use it on the permanent side of your stud, whilst using 243 (or similar) on the nut, so in theory, the stud should never come out when removing the nut

    Not high temp though, so no good for exhaust manifold studs, but should be Ok for inlet manifolds.

    Chris, I`ve never seen the `Prittstick` thing, but I`d be sceptical of how well it applies the compound...

    I`ve also never seen a course paste type from Loctite, but for caliper bolts, I`d be perfectly confident in using 243 (and have done previously).

    The yellow bearing fit compound (648 for the high temp version) is really just for bearings and shouldn`t really be used on threads.

    A couple of others to add;

    510 - High temp gasket stuff (like Hylomar/Hermatite). Can be used on it`s own or with `paper` gaskets.

    577- A liquid version of PTFE thread sealing tape. Very good stuff, and less of a faff than tape.
     
  8. danTbone Forum Member

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    ive use the prittstick stuff it holds the bolt. but not realy tight to undo, genral use i guess.
    works ok for me
     
  9. Mike_H Forum Addict

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  10. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I've found (depending on type):

    RS components (on line, or counters)
    Halfords
    Motor Factors
    Silverstone Factors
    + (I assume) Merlin, Tweeks, GPR etc
     
  11. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Loctite 641

    "Bearing Fit" retaining compound.

    Recommended for parts that will need subsequent dismantling i.e. retention of bearings onto shafts and into housings.

    Ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum gap clearance up to 0.1mm. Provides handling strength in 30 minutes.

    [​IMG]

    I've used this stuff to install a steel sleeve in an alternator bracket, where otherwise the pivot bolt tries to wear the cast ally hole into an oval shape.

    Also used it to anchor a keensert thread, which I'd had to install in a stripped gearbox mounting:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Ah, wheel studs rather than bolts - when fastening in stud conversions, anchoring them into the hubs.


    Question - anyone?

    What has a higher temp rating than 270?

    Just about to put ARP flywheel bolts on the track motor and debating using 270 or more. There is no compound on the threads, unlike the OEM flywheel bolts.

    Fair bit of heat coming from the crank when in use...
     
  13. James_mk2 Forum Member

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    I'm converting to wheel studs soon, should i be looking for some Loctite 270 for the hub end? Or 243?
     
  14. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    In that case then, yes, 270 would the stuff to use.

    As above for you too, James. :thumbup:
     
  15. James_mk2 Forum Member

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    Cool i'll try and get hold of some, if my friend in REME can't appropriate me a bottle i'll have to try halfords/motor factors
     
  16. James_mk2 Forum Member

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  17. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Not sure James - doesn't cost much anyway for the small bottles


    ^^ Bump
     
  18. rupe Forum Member

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    Loctite 266 - 450F or 230C

    266 is a surface insensitive, high strength, high
    temperature.Particularly suitable for heavy duty applications such
    as bolts used in transmissions, construction equipment or
    railroad assemblies where resistance to heavy shock, vibration
    and stress level is required along with exposure to elevated
    temperatures. LOCTITE

    266 is tolerant of oil and other mild
    surface contamination.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2009
  19. lufbramatt Forum Member

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    do we think that 243 would be ok on the "inner" bolts on wheel PCD adaptors? ie the ones that hold the adaptor to the hub?

    im not gonna be taking it on a track, 150 degrees seems quite high, but not sure?

    this site seems to carry most of the ranges:

    http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Loctite_Adhesive-1007-c
     
  20. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Possibly 270 - somthing with a bit more 'grip'.

    Had a chat with a factor about this today.

    Crank temps aren't the problem he said (circa 100 degrees normally) but heat soak from clutches can be an issue on high revving stuff.

    For flywheels, he suggested Loctite 603, which is green, same as 270, but is just a bit more resistant than 270. Requires a heat gun just to help soften it on disassembly.

    Spec listed:

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts anyone?

    Same bloke above suggested 603 for wheel studs. Do you recognise it Stu? How aggressive would you say it is?
     

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