Mk1 race car (Ex slick 50) and Mk2 daily.

Hi Tony, Yeah they can be seam welded. Although I thought I would leave then unwelded so that they bent first if I hit anything, instead of the shell. Not sure if it makes a difference though .....

 

I can't help but think about next year already...
Budget will be low, so I may have to look for financial support in return for a respray/re-brand to do the whole championship. I can do all the bodywork which makes that quite feasible.
I would love to put together a Class A car... I would have to learn to become a Class A driver too But I think a weight loss program, 200bhp, wider slicks and a LSD could do it.. or 3500 in parts.
Or if a Golf Gti driver has a 16v car they wanted to part-exchange (with some cash their way) I would also be interested....

 

Some pictures from Saturday. A Good qualifying position (aided by testing on Friday, and 2 red flags!) meant I was surrounded by some quick cars...
Pictures from Coram









Lost positions to Ian and Lewis but got them back

 

Great pics Sam... the new stickers must be giving a second a lap!

Stick with the MK1 and work towards the front.

 

I would be interested in hearing more on the bottom arms, as CSCC has no restrictions, and I would really like to improve what I can for the handlng. Are these something you have made up already Jason?

I also had my cv shear and flange during the Birkett at the weekend Need to life these items I think and have some spare hubs/flanges and bearings made up to be able to just swap in.

Also are there any differences between mk1 hubs if you use 100mm or 90mm shafts? I use 100mm shafts. Need to work out how the flange presses into the bearing and hub too for my repair of this problem.

 

For CVs shearing, check also that the driveshaft float is the same on either side, ie the engine/box is sitting centrally.

There are rumoured to be two different Mk1 hub versions catering for 2 CV sizes (excluding the very early hubs with 15mm balljoint pins), but I have yet to see the two. After the amount of time I have been playing with Mk1s, this usually means they don't exist! Please update this thread with any pictures to the contrary:

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215180

 

I will grab some pics of the failure, but its the same as your thread where the flange broke Chris, and then the cv snapped and lost the threaded part leaving the splined bit. The loose part of the flange is still stuck in the inner bearing race. Does that make sense?

 

On the CV issue I've seen a similar problem this year with a big bhp ex Clio cup hillclimb car. It runs a Sadev box, plate diff and shafts but std Clio hubs and CV's. He upgraded the engine a year or so ago and hasn't managed to get through practice since!! In snaps the spline off of the CV's, the shafts go one way the nuts the other. He's tried pattern, genuine, genuine new (as opposed to reconditioned) and all fail, often within seconds. Once one goes the other tends to follow a few seconds later

When we were at Pembrey he changed both after first practice and we were going through all the scenarios that could be causing it. The only thing that came up, other than the much higher preload on the diff, was that he didn't torque the CV's up properly simply tightend them up to what he thought was the correct load. Now don't get me wrong the guy is an engineer so knows what he's up to but front CV's have a big torque setting (I use a 4' bar) and there is no other obvious reason they should be breaking. I wouldn't be surprised if the car has over 260bhp but still there are plenty of turbo cars running std shafts with more power than that. I'm running 90mm CV's and shafts and I run over 200bhp with no problems.

I'm not sure if you have the right torque on them or not but I think it is important to double check. Out of interest the Clio now has Vauxhall hobs and CV's fitted as a safeguard although not tried yet, apparently a known mod for Clios.

By the way Sam, I had a look at your web site and liked the mirror tip you had on there. I had a Amazon gift card I didn't know what to do with so bought one of those 11.99 mirrors you mentioned - great . Will now be able to reverse and drive around the pits without having to guess where I'm going or who is coming. My Father has a 'proper' one in his MGC hillclimber but it cost heck of a lot more that 11.99!!

 

Thanks
That rear view mirror is really great isn't it! I don't have to use the side mirrors much - no blind spots anymore.

I will take a picture of the sheared hub flange... The splined bit on the back of the hub sheared off and remained on the CV splines, whilst stripping the splines on the inside of the flange... EDIT: EXACTLY the same as in chris' thread linked by racer66.

We mark the hub nuts with a paint pen 'slash line' and check them regularly. After initial torque (after rebuild) they do move a fraction (very slight) after a good session, but after a re-torque they don't move ever again. But I suppose anything could happen.

It could have just been old and fractured/tired

For the price of a hub flange (20 odd), its worth me changing the other side too, for reliability. But who knows if the pattern ones are any good, they lasted 2 races...

 

Yes after all this I am going the same route Sam, replace all front suspension components, try to get the Leda shocks refurbed and life the CV, Wheel Bearings and Flanges. A little excessive, but better than missing a race due to failures.

 

keeping reliability is the most expensive part I suppose [:^(]

There must be a form of 'upgrade'??

Reading the thread by Chris, Fasteddymini says he had two identical failures.... A bit worrying for us.

 

Fasteddymini (john) is my current car, so chalk three up to that car. I believe they investigated mk2 things etc and the likes but its all prohibitive. He had NSF iirc go and this was OSF, so thats not bad as the flange and bearing have done at least two season. I would say a fresh set each season should be ok. Well thats my hope, gets expensive even pricing up the bits on ECP or GSF. My back up will be a complete upright assembly ready to replace a failure.

 

Any links etc as i have to get a good interior mirror for my mk1 project

 

Think this is the one Mike http://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Panor...RG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1320047327&sr=8-18

 

Thats the one James
I think its bigger and more convex'ed than the expensive 'Lonacre' ones.

It does make things seem further away though, so takes a bit of getting used to I found.

 

How did you attach yours Sam?

thanks

mike

 

It slides over the top and clamps onto the original with 'jaws' tightened by screws. Works well

 

I've ordered one of these too off the back of this thread! You should ask for comission...

 

Ha. Its nice to save a few people some cash at least.
I tried it in my road car (Mk1 Renault 5 TL - slowest car ever made?) and found I was sat too high and could just see myself and passenger
I would say it is only really suitable for track use.

 

Got my mirror cheers.

One strange thing on the back of the package i noticed:

"GB The use is not permitted under the highway code. To be used for decorative purposes only".

Can anyone confirm if it would cause any problems for an MOT or the fuzz when driving on a road?