Mk1 race car (Ex slick 50) and Mk2 daily.

Strange that isn't it.
I guess maybe because it obscures the view out the front if your seat is high? I can't imagine the MOT will be a problem as it comes off with 2 screws.

 

That's the thing because in cars the sun visors can come down lower that the mirror. I think it might be like you said earlier that it isn't an accurate representation on how far away or the exact angle they could be at like with a flat mirror but i would think you adapt to it after some practice.

 

My father has a Longacre mirror, which is similar in design, in his hillclimb MGC and he's never been pulled up in the MOT station, not to say another station wouldn't pull him.

I'd have thought they (or the police) would really need to be out to get you to pull you on the design of the rear view mirror

 

I had this spare engine that came with my Golf when I bought it. I knew nothing really about it until my brother was interested and took it apart. He did a compression test on it which showed it was a bit worn, and then took it apart - it has been sat for a while.

I think it is similar spec to the engine currently in it, but not sure of cam/pistons/rods and block/head combination - normal?
Would be great to know a it more about the bits in it. Obviously the cam is a bit wild and the valves are 35/41 from a crude measure-up.
Thanks in advance
Sam































Jason, what do you think?

 

Lucky you!!

Forged pistons and rods. Fancy head and cam. Result.

 

Thanks, yeah, all seems quite good. Although it is pretty worn I think.... I will have to ask my Dad who will be able to tell me for sure...
The pistons have movement in the bores But the head gasket looks brand new.

I need to see what is in my current engine, because I don't think it is currently forged, balanced or what! Although I don't have the money to rebuild either at the moment! ha

 

They will do Sam, forged pistons sometimes run a larger clearance, but even std ones rock a fair bit in the bores.
TBH it is probably all knackered, just send it too me for recycyling.

 

I am a bit stuck, because I would love to build one and use a fresh engine, but I should be spending any money I can spare on more 'seat-time'. I am nowhere near to getting the full potential out of the car yet, so could be pointless to build an engine.

 

That does look like a nice kit of bits there, why don't I ever find anything like that when I open up an engine [:^(].

However, throw the sump away!! You can see where it has already been welded where it has stress fractured, and still has some unwelded fractures (these will have appeared after it was welded). I had one of these, Autotech I think (please correct me if I'm wrong anyone, I don't want to **** off the wrong make!), sumps and it came apart in various places. It had been welded back together in the past. Luckily didn't do any damage but could have. The trap doors from it live on in my current sump though

Looking at the cam it says Hoer but the chamfer on the cam edges look like the various Schrick cams I have here, maybe a 304 cam. I notice it's still running std VW buckets and shims, you need to change them to buckets with lash caps. The cam will scoop theose shims out at some point Also check what springs it has, need to be 'proper' ones or it will all end in tears

 

Thanks Tony, all taken onboard
The sump has welded patches all over it actually.

Maybe it will be something I build over the next year.... Interested to lend Jason/JMR the head before I build it. See where there is room to improve.

I also have a flowed inlet manifold sat around that may be worth fitting for free gains.

 

Could be interesting Sam...drag it all down.

Cunningham are an American company from memory. Good start with the valve sizes...difficult to tell with the porting unless it's measured up...I've seen some that have a great finish but not a lot of material removed...and pants airflow.

If the pistons are forged and not too scuffed/measure up ok, they could be re-rung and put into a freshly bored block....then the c.r can be raised comfortably.

The cam may not be a biggie...the head is'nt sculpted out like the big cams need...any markings on the end?

Tony is on the money re the buckets... even Schrick recommend a 35mm bucket with the 304 (and above) cams...most dont and like Tony said...pay the price at some point...usually when missing a gear on the down change and buzzing the engine.

 

Thanks Jason. Before it goes back together, I will send some bits your way .... who knows when though

 

Anytime after the end of January works for me.

 

Just got the VAG Trophy circuits for next year:

Donington Park.
Snetterton 300.
Silverstone.
Oulton Park.
Brands Hatch GP.

What a calender!
My top 5 choices really.

 

good luck!

Good luck sam!

Nice thread. I'm hoping to get along to one of these rounds to watch. Not seen any club racing for years

 

Thanks Peoples car. Good luck with your adventure too.

Just found this onboard video with Dawn (8v Golf Gti).
She is following me for a couple of laps, and you get to see the result of the oil at druids and how close it got at times!
Worth watching the first lap. I come into view at 1:50 and leave at around 5:30.

I feel my driving has come on a long way since then (3rd race), although I have only done two more now. My car has quite a big advantage over Dawns (built to different regulations). I just got engulfed for the first lap ....To think I finished 6th overall at Snetterton a few months after!

[YOUTUBE]63yH8ZggTL8[/YOUTUBE]

 

Nice bit of three wheeling! That looked really slippery, I love Dawn's 'Whoa'...

 

As already said, more or less, that looks like a good few grand's worth of engine, in terms of the original build cost.

Look for etch/stamp marks on the No.4 end of the cam, to see a part number / maker's stamp. The round lobes would suggest it's a long duration job, although there's not a massive amount of clearancing been done in the cam oil bath. You can see the machining marks in the pic below. That would suggest it's a fairly old-skool profile - longish duration, and probably 11.5mm ish of lift. If your brother is feeling energetic, get him to take it out and measure the lobes. Standard VAG shim tappets would point that way too. I agree with the above comments that the chamfer on the edge of the lobe is typical of Schrick. Some cheaper cams I've seen (e.g. Newman) don't bother with that extra machining operation.

 

Thanks Mike,
Here are a couple more pictures.
I am sending it to Jason at JMR today, so he can see what improvements can be made.

No idea what the standard valve springs look like...? what are these? double sprung....

 

Yeah, Dawns 'Whoa' is great!