found these online for all those with wiring headaches: Page 1 and page 2 okay, it's in german, and it's not even like the wiring on mine, but at least you know how the switch is wired up
looks like it might go on...thing is that panel isnt a brace in the mk2 golf wiring is easy enough anyway
HI Giles i`m glad to see you got your parts and your happy with them . Anyway back to the subject if i was you i`d cut out only enough of the metal work out for the motor to fit and leave the rest to brace it. I cant see any reason why that shouldn`t do the trick
Spent a good half hour with it strapped to a battery making it go buzz-clunk I'm just a little wary as the rocco roof profile is different to the golf. Gonna have a hunt around for a junker I can butcher a bit first, that way I'll know if it'll work & fit without getting a grinder to my own (freshly painted) shell..
It's in Couldn't be arsed with messing around with a scrapper, so took a 'best guess' and reached for the dremel: Bingo. fit's up nicely. Just gotta sort the wiring, and then find a cover for it.
which switch are you going to use the one form the audi? i have one form a polo that i want to mate up to the same motor you have anyone any idea on how to wire it up?
Nah, the Audi switch is grey and looks nothing like any of the rocco switches (think of the m1 golf/mk2 polo). I'm probably going to use electric window switches as they've got the same terminals and switching assignments as the electric sunroof switches - though if anyone's got a switch (or 2) from a mk1 cabby with a power hood then let me know I'm thinking of putting 1 switch on the roof itself and another on the dash, plus a permanent power supply to the motor (via relays) on a nice fat cable to reduce the voltage drop. I've got most of the system designed (very similar to electric windows) just need to work out how I can get a total-closure signal to shut the roof regardless of it's position (it's tilt n slide y'see). Gimme your email and I'll send you a schematic of what I've worked out so far..
haha I found that diagram yesterday Very handy, just fyi rocketeer you have the same motor as me I think, which has slightly less wires than the one in the diagram. Me & Pigbladder figured out the extra wire in his motor is for a slow & fast speed setting, so his motor slows down just before it fully opens/closes. Ours just carry on at full speed Also we think the blue wire from the motor to the switch is a thermal cutout in case it jams or you have your head stuck in the roof
Close, but no cigar. The blue wire will inhibit the motor from running backwards once the second (white) microswitch has been pushed in - that only happens when the sunroof is (or should be) in the far back position - in essence a position limit to stop it running off the back of the rails. There isn't a forward position limit switch though - the blue switch is an interrupt to stop the roof once it's in one of 3 'resting' positions - open, shut and tilt.
I think we are talking about different wires here, check the diagram I'm talking about the blue wire that runs to the 'close roof' power feed to the switch, which is not linked to either of the microswitches and is linked internally to the motor
Nope same wire. The diagram is a little misleading as it's suggesting the 2/3 microswitches are internal to the motor, but they ain't as you can see below: The red wheel is driven from the roof drive sprocket (yellowish) on a toothed reduction, you can see the 2 microswitches to the right of it, the white on is activated by the short lobe you can see on the red wheel (about the 6-o-clock position). The blue and blue/red (or blue/black as on the diagram) wires are on the normally-closed contacts providing the power to the reverse direction poles on the switch - when the lobe hits the switch and breaks the connection, the motor can no longer run backwards.
There is definitly a forward limit stop of some kind, you can hear the relay click out when it is 'shut'
That's cos the twin speed motor needs to know when it's near it's stop position, so the extra switch is a kinda 'getting' close switch, all it does is switch the current from the fast winding to the slower one when it's engaged. But given neither of us have this fantastic twin speed system, it's a bit of a moot point. I've reverse-engineered the interior of the relay (that's a head-fork in itself - it's a flip-flop with a momentary contact) and the rest of the circuit. I reckon I can even mod it for current-bypass relays (doesn't suck the motor load through the control switch) and also a total-closure input - though these have to be built and tested before I can guarantee it works In the meantime I've got a slightly more relevant circuit diagram of how it actually works if anyone is interested..
Sorry if this comes out in a bit of a babble............Just read pretty much the entire post, as I just got a motor off ebay from an audi 80 just because it looked like it could fit, as usual no research went in b4 the purchase thankfully looks the same as the audi ones posted on here!! I'm a carpenter by trade so the wiring makes little sense to me I can wire simple things, radios, wing mirrors, alarms etc but when it comes to understanding a relay rather than just fitting it i'm out of my depth!! I only have a sliding roof and have no intention of fiting tilt (don't see the point) So do I need the relay left on it?? I have a couple of variable timed relays (1-90secs) so could I use one of those to make it open/close on one push of the switch?? and are the micro switches going to affect the roof opening at all?? I know its a big ask but if anyone made any sense of that ramble I'm gratefull for any help! also I was told that the vw looking switch is vw and can also be found on mk3 & 4 polos with a sunroof! any idea if thats true??
Ideally you'd need to keep the relay and microswitches in there to stop the motor when the roof is in an end position - it's quite a fruity motor and mechanism and if left to run it'll happily chew up your roof cables rather than stall. You can probably mod the cam-wheel with a knife to trim off some of the cam lobes to prevent the motor running forwards to the tilt position.
