MK2 Golf GT TDi Conversion 6 speed PD, Dash and Wiring

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Mjj4, Jan 9, 2013.

  1. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Yeah defo, well the one i bought is for an ARL 150 lump but was going to fit it into my daily which is only a baby PD (AJM 115) so mapped will only be 150 anyway. That was the theory because i know the smf kit will hold it but im not sure if it will hold 195ish bhp that i would like from the Mk2, ah well if i havent used it in the daily by the time the mk2 pd engine is ready to go in for the last time il throw it in and go from there. If i ever go big turbo il take the engine out anyway so clutch wont be an issue then.

    Cheers mate, yeah theres a few bits but ive seen a lot worse! Im used to having GL's so no arches and they always tend to be solid but i wanted a GTI shell as this is my baby and going to be a keeper! It's only a lump of metal at the end of the day so can be sorted out! Thanks for the tip on the chassis legs i hadnt thought of that!


    Yeah i have it helped a lot with ideas and inspiration, only thing for me with the wiring as i will need 95% of the mk4 loom as im running all the mk4 dash and convenience modules etc... Just seat airbags im not running and will have to chop/change the connectors for lights/wipers etc...

    I have sold the ABF conversion to a good mate of mine for his MK2, shame really as i want to build a road legal track mk2 abf when the mk2 PD is finished but as thats so far away i cant warrent keeping the engine for that long.

    So i've been waiting for my present and have had the worst service from a courier ever! I recommend you all to NEVER use Yodel!!! I have had 2 blank delivery notices with no idea where the package is and no address for the collection office. I arranged yesterday to pick it up today and when i got there today was it there? No, great so a wasted journey and now i'm at home waiting for it to come anytime upto 7pm!! Thanks a lot Yodel you should really fill out these forms or theyre pretty pointless and you should keep track of your parcels!!!

    On the plus side, the postman has just been and i have my logbook all sorted with the PD engine details :) very weird seeing a mk2 golf 1896cc heavy oil! But I'm happy that's all sorted!!
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
  2. mc_hawkings24 Forum Member

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    Oh so your doing a full reshell. I thought you needed it checked out by vosa before the consider changing the logbook?
    Also wouldn't the pd be faster than the abf? I know from the 150hp tdi passat's i've driven are very quick.

    Are you copying the re engine mount that guy made?
     
  3. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Yeah basically, and no you just write the new details on your log book and send it off to the DVLA, you need to include a receipt for the engine itself or the conversion, an insurance inspection report, rac/aa report or a letter from manufacturer showing the engine number and size.

    I wont need to copy his mount as i have the Garret turbo on mine so can re clock the cold side and then the original mount will fit with a small amount of shaving, or make a custom one similar to his but wont need to have the cold side going through the mount.

    So after all the hassle i had with getting my parcel from Yodel, i received this:
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    Got the bodyshop next door to weld on the drop links and tubes as i don't trust myself with something this important!
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    All built up
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    Then a good mate of mine wanted to buy the Fk highsports off the mk2 so i fitted them for him and it made a world of difference to the looks!
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    Back to my own project i took the fuel tank out after struggling with one stubborn bolt, took the rear beam off and rear suspension.
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    Then as the front end is empty i decided to put it on the spit, i'm starting to think i should have test fitted the engine and dash first rather than sorting the shell out as i'm going to get the shell painted while its bare but have to test fit everything first, this means i will have to re fit all the running gear then remove it again when it goes for paint! oh well i will think of a plan. I'm tempted to send the shell for shot blasting/soda blasting but not sure how much it will cost and i'm not made of money (who is!!).

    Here is the front on the spit, the rear isnt ready to go on as the tailgate and glass is still in and there are bits and pieces inside that will go flying!
    [​IMG]

    more soon :)
     
  4. priceygti Forum Member

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    Dude your progress makes me sad my own is so slow :(

    but on the other hand your steaming along and progressing really well, i always enjoy dropping in your thread looking for new updates :)

    shot blasting doesn't remove the seam sealer at all so you need to remove that yourself and i looked into chemical/acid dipping a shell and it workes out like 3500 for all of it, which i feel is too damn much unless the car is worth like 100k lol

    btw can you pm me the link you got that spit from looks a good solid one
     
  5. CurbSide Dubs New Member

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    the spit roaster !! i made my own ! makes work on a shell a million times easier :-)
     
  6. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Ouch thats steep and pretty useless then thats the only reason i wanted it doing was to save me labouring on the underneath, guess il go for the white spirit and butter knife approach like PAB did, thats one of my next jobs to do then get it etch primed or something to protect it while i test fit everything then it can go in the paint shop. Might not be the best way round to do it but it would be nice to get the crappy jobs out the way first!

    Hopefully! i haven't flipped her over yet, debating on test fitting everything like engine, dash, wiring etc and then prepping the shell just before it goes for paint? Any opinions welcome!
     
  7. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Definitely test fit everything! I plan to fit all the mechanical parts to make sure fit and finish is good and that everything works before I get it painted properly (getting my own ghetto paint job beforehand) just in case it got scratched or dented or something had to be modified. I'm going for a smooth bay (a relic of the previous owner) and things have to be done like clutch master, fuel filter mount, washer bottle etc as there are no brackets anywhere!

    Once I'm happy with it only then does she deserve paint!

    But I'm sorting the underneath and inside and undersealing her before anything happens. that's the worst part of the build. once you get into the mechanical build-up you will be so excited!
     
  8. priceygti Forum Member

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    i used a a wire cup on my angle grinder to get rid of the seam sealer it works a treat but is a little rough and causes sealer to end up everywhere it's all over my car atm lol
     
  9. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    I think you missed what i was getting at (Probably my fault!) Im only getting the bay and outside painted once everything is painted but is it worth doing the underside (removing underseal and welding any bits up) then leaving it in etch primer untill everything is test fitted and then i can strip it back to a bare shell for paint knowing the underneath is done. Or should i put the subframe back on, test fit the engine etc now (and dash, wiring) then sort the underneath just before it goes for paint.

    I hope i get excited as im dreading sorting the body!

    Haha i thought about that but dont want to go through the dip primer underneath (if theres any left!) other than the rusty areas that i have to bring back to bare metal. I will see what works best (nothing i expect) when ive removed the tailgate, windows and some crap thats inside then i can roll her over and have a go!

    On the upside, VW heritage were offering 10% off and free delivery at UD so i odered both rear arch repair panels, Goodrich rear braided hoses to fit mk4 calipers, fuel tank straps and the fuel tank strap bracket. We all love presents :)
     
  10. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Same here. but takes an age to get to bare metal. Bare metalling the whole underside just in case of any hidden rust. This MK2 has to last me forever!
     
  11. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    I would just do as much as possible. at the end of the day the underside won't be seen. or clean for that matter. so as long as it's solid and functional. do it now while you're doing the horrible demeaning jobs in the cold. that way it's done and you can move on. my plan is back to bare metal the whole floorpan (doing sections at a time and red primer just to protect them - will strip it off when ready) and POR-15
    the underside. Then seam sealer. Then a Dinitrol rust-killing underseal (just in case) and then black stonechip. This will protect it, and the rust prevention layers sealed under a nice flexible layer. The bay will be done separate once I have done the fit-up. I covered the bay in Tetroseal rust-inhibiting underseal a couple of years ago just to protect the bay as the car was outside for a few months that year. I'll strip all that off (heat and white spirit) smooth all the roughly done parts and joins, and seam seal all the joints not smoothed. Then some kind of rust-killing primer and then paint the bay (may do it myself as it doesn't have to look as good as the body - depends how much it costs at the same time as the shell)

    Same idea on the inside. Going to protect that with the POR-15 to fully prevent any future problems. And probably paint the inside myself as it's hardly seen. Then some kind of sound deadening and things like that.

    Voila
     
  12. priceygti Forum Member

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    i will do a section tomorrow and get a photo to show you how aggressive a wire cup is

    dude if i'd have know you were at UD i'd have said pop round as my cars are literally within spitting distance of the international centre lmao
     
  13. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Oops double post
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  14. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Its good that you have a plan for rust prevention! i'm not bothered too much about the looks of the underside but have no clue about rust prevention so need to read up on it!

    That will be great mate, yeah i should have posted to see who was going! Im sure ill be up in your area in the near future i always seem to buy things off ebay and travel everywhere and anywhere to get it haha so i will shout in future!
     
  15. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    I've learned the hard way about trying to stop rust -Triflow and Hammerite don't work beyond 6 months!
     
  16. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    I've learned the hard way about trying to stop rust -Triflow and Hammerite don't work beyond 6 months!
     
  17. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Thanks for the advice! I will get the underseal off and leave it with an etch primer on? I have heard epoxy mastic is good stuff?
     
  18. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Sounds like a plan! What is epoxy mastic, isn't that like a seam sealer?
     
  19. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    I dont know but apparently it's good stuff and you can use it on the underneath, i will have to have a look into it!

    Not really an update, hopefully i'll get something done down the unit this evening (after my haircut what a pain!!) but a few of the bits i ordered from VWHeritage have arrived. Both rear arch repair panels and the fuel tank straps. Not sure if i will use them permanently because theyre completely flat rather than the VW ones that have a line down the middle. Will ring VW and get a price on the genuine ones.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Jagermeister

    Jagermeister Forum Member

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    May save you a phone call, I understand they are no longer available from VW. you could get stainless ones, but they are quite bling.

    This link should sort you for Epoxy Mastic its used on oil rigs & not as fussy about surface prep as POR -its a shame there are only 6 colours & none of them Blue for you!

    Love this build - should be very rewarding once done.
     

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