MK2 Golf GT TDi Conversion 6 speed PD, Dash and Wiring

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Mjj4, Jan 9, 2013.

  1. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Good man! I finally bought, drove, broke and subsequently fixed a PD150! I would update mine but i have ZERO photos taken!
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    If you get stuck getting the mk4 convenience to work with mk2 stuff hit me up, I've got mine mostly working, just a few bugs to work out! Learnt a lot about the systems (the hard way mostly :lol:)

    main thing is you have 2 main types of module, the full central convenience module for electric windows and the more basic central locking module for windy windows (different addresses in vag-com, and different firmwares too! cant hack the central locking modules like you can the central convenience)

    When looking about its easy to tell visually between them the 2 plug modules are for electric windows, 3 plug are for those with windy windows. 2 plug ones are fine if you don't mind also wiring in the mk4 electric window motors, as its these that actually control the central locking actuators. if you don't want the mk4 window motors then you will need a 3 plug central locking module as this can control your central locking modules directly.

    also you have early and late versions of the above, which use different plugs, pinouts and key fobs. again something I learnt the hard way :lol:

    you can get them working with standard aftermarket central locking actuators as well, they have an 'earthed when open or shut' signal wire which can be used to tell the module if the doors are locked or not. the only issue is these dont have a SAFE signal, on mine I have left this wire off for now so module thinks the doors are always SAFE regardless of if they are unlocked or not. The central locking and alarm still works perfectly, but it does seem affect the auto locking functionality (locks doors over a certain road speed) as it tries to lock the doors but immediately unlocks them again. I need to test if earthing the safe wires fixes the issue or not, or if i can piggy back into the locked signal wire. for door open/closed signal you can indeed use the mk2 pins, I've done this on mine. Ideally you need to get a non-time delay interior light as it interferes with the fancy MK4 interior light 'fade out to black when locked' function :thumbup:

    you can disable the rear doors in VAG-COM so it wont complain that your rear locks aren't responding :thumbup:
    on mine i have run both the petrol flap and boot actuator to the mk4 boot wires as I dont want the separate petrol flap button, the only thing that I cant figure out is why my boot pop button doesn't work properly, it should just unlock the boot then automatically lock it again when you close the boot but instead it unlocks all the doors? I'm thinking its down to the SAFE functionality but I haven't investigated that as of yet.

    Oh, and I have the climate control functioning in my MK2 as well so if you need any help there holla, though you should find it a piece of wee since you have the full mk4 dash and bulkhead whereas I fitted it into the mk2 dash and bulkhead which is a bit of a nightmare :lol:

    edit: you could wire the petrol flap and boot to a pair of 5 wire actuators, then use the mk4 rear door motor wiring so the convenience module knows if the boot or central locking flap are locked or unlocked, bit overkill tho :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
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  3. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Apologies John for the MASSIVE quote! lol

    The donor is a 2002 150bhp 5 door Golf, with leccy windows all round, remote central locking and electric mirrors. This means I have a 2-plug CCM yes? (and it's going into a 3 door MK2)

    I was planning to do something along the lines of Phil Barlow and use the MK4 logic boxes on the window reg (mounted behind the door card somewhere) and cutting the feed to the motor, and wiring the 2 wires drom that to the OEM MK2 electric wIndow regs I have. I hope this would mean that I do not have to cut up perfect Mk2 electric regs is all.

    Could you link to an example of the central locking actuators for us, just so I know which ones, some have 2 wires, 3 or 5 etc!

    Kav1187 showed how to sort the headlight wiring and said about using the central locking actuators. Luckily I fitted one of them Rightclick boxes into a mates MK2 before and we got it working perfect so it should feel OEM:thumbup:

    What do you mean about the interior light? IE use the mk2 one or the MK4 one (I have to do a custom headliner anyway due to the MK4 tilitng glass sunroof I put on mine - fun!)

    And about the bulkhead, I'm using the Climatronic everything, and just drilling holes in the bulkhead for things to go through!

    Oh and I don't get about wiring the boot and flap to the rear doors - you mean just so the CCM knows if they're open or not for the alarm is it?


    OK rant over!!

    Sam
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yup you'll have a 2 plug CCM and what you describe should work perfectly :)

    you have 2 main kinds of aftermarket regulators, 2 wire are simple slave units which are generally used for rear doors, boot and petrol flap etc. the 5 wire units are used in the front doors, these have an earth plus lock open and closed wires. these wires are used to truigger the central locki9ng system, i.e. when you pop the knob the system is triggered.

    only thing if you use a MK4 CCM you cannot trigger the central locking from the mk2 knobs if it has an alarm as this would just set it off, you cant even use the lock and unlock wires as these are momentary trigger buttons plus again it would set off the alarm. its no biggy though, why would you want to when you have a mk4 fob :lol:

    aftermarket lock actuator wiring:
    blue - unlock power (+12v to unlock)
    green - lock power (+12v to lock)

    brown - lock signal (earthed when locked)
    white - unlock signal (earthed when unlocked)
    black - earth

    MK4 Front Door Lock:
    1 - lock motor
    2 - lock motor
    3 - safe position, open = safe, closed = unsafe
    4 - lock pulse (from door lock cylinder)
    5 - lock position, open = locked, closed = unlocked
    6 - unlock pulse (from door lock cylinder)
    7 - earth
    8 - door contact switch (earthed when door open)

    so blue and green would go to the mk4 lock pins 1 and 2, black to earth, and the brown to pin 5. pin 8 is routed to the mk2 door pin wire, pin 3 is left (for now, need to experiment here on mine!) and 4 and 6 also left (iunless you wanted to wire up monetary switches to your mk2 lock cylinder, mine is delocked so cant use them) if you do go for the lock switches beware that on sdome mk4 the alarm will go off if unlocked from the door lock and the key isnt inserted in a specified time. this feature can be enabled or disabled in vagcom I beleive? its so a theif cant just force the lock and get in scot free. you can even enable auto window roll up from the key fob if you use all the mk4 modules, but this is a more involved proces requiring MSDOS laptop and a special cable.

    with the interior light all it is most mk2 haver a time delay circuit in it, so when you shut the door the light stays on for a bit. you can still use this if you like but you will loose the lovely mk4 fade to black feature as the light will just stay on. so you can either fit a poverty spec mk2 light, mk4 light or whatever other light you fancy just as long as it has no time delay feature built in :)

    yeah dont worry about using 5 wire actuators for the rear flap and boot, I was just being silly :lol:

    the mk4 has 2 switches inside the boot for the CCM, one which tells it the boot is open (boot light switch basically) the other tells the unit if the lock is open or closed and is on the lock cylinder. I guess this will trigger the alarm if a theif tries to force the lock? on mine I bought a polo or seat boot lock block which has the boot light switch in it, but I will only use this for the CCM. I have left the factory boot light wiring alone, mainly as I wanted to keep the handy MK2 boot light disable function to save draining the battery if boot is left open for a while.

    there is also a bonnet switch I need to wire in but this I haven't got round to yet, I still haven't figured out how I'm going to do it. ideally I want the switch inside the scuttle as that's where I have run my alarm siren and bonnet wires too, plus if its tucked in there a thief wont be able to tamper with it to try to disable the alarm
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2013
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  5. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Wow thanks rubjonny! That's so helpful! I'm sure there will be other areas where i struggle but you have a while before i come to them haha!

    Anyway so I'm sorry its been so long since updating, I rebuilt a motorbike to use for summer so that took a couple of months away from the golf then went on holiday which took another couple of weeks away but I am hard back on the golf now!

    Here is the before and after of the bike if anyones interested, only a Suzuki GS500 for commuting on:
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    So where to start with the golf project, firstly i bought some winter wheels that will actually fit over the G60 brakes where the Brock B2s wouldn't
    BBS RZ
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    Then I spent hours and hours and hours grinding and heating off underseal
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    I rang up a shotblasting company and they said they could get the awkward to reach areas and wheel arches so I got it shotblasted
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    This left a lovely finish for paint to adhere to but didn't remove the underseal from the arches or hard to reach areas as VW underseal is so thick the shotblast just bounces off. If you spend long enough blasting a patch to remove it you will destroy the metal panel around it and possibly distort it.

    So back to grinding the rest off and carrying out all the welding required before re blasting.
    Both inner and outer sills.
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    And the other side.
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  6. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    For my reference
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    Various repairs.

    Jacking points
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    Fuel Filler.
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    Ground all the arches ready for shotblasting.
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    2nd time at shotblasting.
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    Then immediately blown off any loose media and coated with Bilthamber electrox zinc rich primer, 2 coats 2.5 hours apart.
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    Electrox dry
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    Quick 50/50
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    So that brings it up to date, it doesn't look like a lot of work but it has been more than I imagined by miles and now i'm nearing the end of the underside the build will get more interesting.

    Next up, a few last bits of welding to do then apply electrox to those areas, then epoxy mastic the underside with Bilthambers epoxy mastic, then seam seal, then stone chip. I'm feeling going medium/dark grey with the stone chip. Apparently mixing blue pigment with white stonechip will never get dark enough to match the top colour.
     
  7. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Looking top Mike! The photos are better here than on Facebook. I was told that shot blasting would destroy the shell!
     
  8. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Cheers mate, I'm happy with it just need to get the last few bits welded and get it all sealed so I can hopefully forget about it for years. Fingers crossed!

    Yeh I reckon you could do damage if you let an amateur at your car with something really harsh. If you shotblasted a bonnet or panel you need smooth for paint you will ruin it but for the underside of a car it gives a finish that paint will adhere to better than the original smooth panels. I pulled a few bits of underseal off the arches by hand with a bit of heat, which also pulled the dip primer off. You can see these parts in the arch photos as the metal is smooth and therefore the dip primer didnt adhere as well as it needed to.
     
  9. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    That should last another twenty odd years!
     
  10. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    So been coating the underside in epoxy mastic which takes forever as its brush on and so thin! Two coats are meant to achieve 100 microns dry thickness (thinner than factory bodywork paint) so its very runny and time consuming. Finished 1 coat and started the second coat.

    Epoxy Mastic
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    You can see the floor pans are done in this photo but not the boot floor.
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    Then had to bolt the rear beam on and front subframe so i could drop the golf off of the spit and wheel barrow it onto a trailer to move units!
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    Her new home
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    Going to get her back on the spit this week so i can finish off the epoxy mastic, then stone chip the underside white, paint it bodycolour then get all the rear beam/subframe etc powdercoated so i can re assemble the underside and put it back on its wheels permanently!
     
  11. Limited New Member

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    The work you have done is amazing. I am lucky to find this thread. I hope the job continues as well. How has the work gone recently? I don't imagine it's finished yet? John.
     
  12. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Thanks, it's still far from finished. I work on average 55 hours a week so I don't get anywhere near as much time to work on it as i'd like to!

    Little bit of progress, i have finised coating the underside in epoxy mastic and started seam sealing. One i've seam sealed the arches I have 2 bits of welding to do on the rear panel then i can zinc prime/ epoxy them up and it'll be underseal and paint time.

    2 coats of epoxy mastic
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    Most of the seam sealing done
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  13. SMcNairn New Member

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    Just read though this project. Top work. Lots of dedication here. Look forward to seeing how you get on over the coming months. When do you hope to have this project complete?
     
  14. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Thanks! I've only just seen this, had a fairy bad car accident in december and not fully recovered so haven't touched this since then. I'll go more into that in another thread i need to start now :)

    I want it finished Feb 2015 but thats quickly approaching so hopefully i can get back on it soon and make some decent progress :)
     
  15. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Hope you're OK Mike, I know how that one feels sometimes. Still got the remnants of it 3 years on! I am ploughing into mine, but always too dark to take photos in the shed so haven't updated my thread. Hopefully it will be driving (not finished - note a project is never finished) by the summer.

    Sam
     
  16. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Hi mate sorry for the delay! I still haven't recovered but am learning to cope as is. Trying to get motivated but it can be hard when still suffering but some progress should help! Hows your build coming along mate?

    Small update considering its been nearly 8 months!

    So first of all i bought myself a birthday present, GTB2260VK, DSD stainless tubular manifold, braided oil feed and 3" stainless downpipe

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    Then i figured i'd mock everything up inside and in the engine bay before finishing off the underside as theres no doubt changes to be made, so I started with the front engine bracket.

    I used some of the chassis leg from the donor mk4 so make the front bracket fit the 6 speed

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    M12 Nuts welded on too
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    Made some longer bolts to hold the front bracket on, will try and find genuine VW ones that are the right length but these will do for mocking up

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    Then I started on the subframe

    Cup removed
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    02M gearbox mount
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    Engine in on a knackered front mount and the rear mount
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    GTB clearance, can clock the cold side a little bit more but it's going to be close
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    G60 front engine mount arrived
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    Spot welded the gearbox cup in
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    Then removed the engine and seam welded the cup to the subframe
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    Looks like i'm back to square one haha.

    Next job is to mount the climate control heater box, but I need the inside mint before i start working in there. So started cleaning.
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    This is a horrible job, haven't quite worked out a good way to remove the gluey mess from the floor but hopefully the inside will be clean soon so i can start mocking everything up inside and in the engine bay!

    More to come sooner this time honest [:D]
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2014
  17. priceygti Forum Member

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    looking good progress there buddy, nice to come back and see some of the threads i used to look forward to seeing still progressing
     
  18. mercedeslimos Forum Member

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    Looks fantastic mate keep up the good work. Makes you feel good when you get a bit done. Progress is getting there but custom fab takes ages. Every time I look at the car I seem to need something buying.
     
  19. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Nice work mate - it has come a long way! Sorry to hear about your accident - hope all is well now.

    I'm looking forward to seeing this finished! My Syncro has been on the driveway for over a year as I bought a house so probably won't make any progress until next summer.

    Keep up the good work!

    Kav
     
  20. alfie Forum Member

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    Any updates on this? Really interested to see how this turned out as ice recently done the same to the underside of my MK1..
     

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