Mk2 VR6 Re-wire help needed - Interior re wire 26/03/10 (Page2)

After my recent diagnostic port issue I noticed I have loads of unused wiring in my car. Behind the fuse box is a large red wire thats permanent 12v live but it isn't plugged into the fuse box.

Also the are loads of random wires that dont connect to anything, an example of this is a grey/white with a big black plug on the end. Its not attched to anything and runs to the headlight switch, my lights work fine so in theory I could pull the pin out of the headlight switch and bin the wire.

I have a loom under the bonnet that is miles too long so theres a big loop in it to take the slack, is there any reason why I cant unwrap it and shorten all the wires?

 

No reason you can`t shorten the loom. Just takes a while, and you need to make sure every joint is soldered well, and covered with heat shrink rather than just wrapped in tape.

Any surplus wires, just chop them out somewhere neat, and heatshrink/tape the ends.

Piece of the proverbial...

 

I've started to do this now and removed a mass of wires so far. Most of it has been from the fan system which is not used on my car because its operated off a switch.

Down by my headlights are some 3 pin connectors with a rubber cover on them, they plug into nothing, does anyone know what they are for?

 

they are for electric headlight leveling, they can be binned

 

Sweet. I'll keep using this thread for the next load I bin off.

The wiring realy is a mess

 

my wiring was a total mess, I removed everything that wasnt needed for a track car including 2 alarms and a immobilizer, get a good soldering iron the one I started with was rubbish, I printed out the relavent fusebox FAQ, very helpful to make sure you dont do anything stupid. All in all I wish id never started with it but it does make my OCD happy.

 

Did you keep all the wires untill you had finished? I cant wairt to see my pile. The back of the fuse box already looks miles tidyer. Some wires had been cut and instead of extending them the 2" that was needed they got extended by 12" and all the excess seemed to be wrapped round the rest of the fuse box plugs. Nobs.

Here we are so far:

 

The coolant level sensor wires went to nothing behind the fusebox.

Is the sensor needed and where should the wires go?

 

It runs into the green 8-pin plug "C", through pin 5 brown/red and pin 8 blue/red wire. I'd definitly use the sender as it illuminates the dash warning light to warn coolant level is low, although you could run the car perfectly fine without it. You'd have to earth the dash light out though, otherwise it would flash.

 

Is there any chance of the car going into limp mode without it?

 

Cheers. I'll check if mine is already bridged because the light comes on before ignition but then goes out again.

Is there a headertank with no wiring connection onto it?

 

If the car has a working coolant level system, I would leave it alone TBH. (Test by siphoning the level down in the header tank, drive 100 metres, see if warning light comes on).

Surely an early warning (pre-overheat) of a coolant leak is worth the weight/looks of 20 grams of wiring in the bay???

 

It doesn't work because it was never wired in. My header tank is new but i'm unsure which one it is.

 

Sounds like I might as well wire it up. I got my stuff from VWP today.

I think the lighting loom will be the one to get chopped the most.

 

I've totally removed the headlight looms now. I also had a relay No.31 that was loose above the fusebox. This went to nothing behind my passenger headlight, the wires on it that went to nothing were red, red/white and brown. Theres a black wire that goes from the relay to A1/7 on the fusebox, any ideas what that may be?

 

Cool, i'll cut the black wire and bin it. Part number was 191 955 532 A

Next question is the coolant temp sensor. Can I earth it anywhere to the chassis or do I need to earth it to C/05 on the fusebox?

Also just found that the brake fluid level wires go to nothing in a mass of insulation tape behind fusebox plug C