Lol! I'm trying to source the parts first but it should be interesting, i just can't wait to get stuck in with doing some more work to it! And yes, the bank manager probably will feel a bit faint!
Nice tidy motor... a fine Q car" Is it still an 1800? I've got a Mk2 2.0 16v that I've got a vague notion to stick a turbo on... What's the starter list of bits you need? Any idea what a good donor source of parts would be? I hear a 2E 8v block is a good way of getting the right compression with standard bits. I'm wondering if I can start with the turbo and pipework from a 1.8T. ...and then some sort of after market management to get it set up properly. did you fit the second set of injectors to get enough fuel into it, rather than buying uprated high flow ones? What gearbox and diff are you running? Does that sound like it would work?
Thanks Mike, and yes, it is still an 1800, probably should've gone 2ltr but at the time funds were a bit short [:^(] I don't know the in's and outs of 2ltr combos regarding the compression ratio side of things, if you give Stealthwagen or Rajmirch a pm as they both run 2ltr 16vTs. With 16vts there's no real doner car which is why it can be quite expensive. I'm still running k-jet so you can't uprate the injectors. Adding VR6 injectors was an option in order to keep the k-jet. I'm still running the original gearbox with a Helix racing clutch which should be good for up to 250.
I was sitting in the waiting room at the time and i heard it go. I was going to trailor it back to London but decided i'd just leave it with him. Just waiting for some bits to arrive that i tracked down from across the water and i'll have some updates
Yes you can run a 2E bottom with a KR head and cams and get 8.5:1 comp. If you use the ABF head you will smack the intake valves into the pistons as the lack of piston pockets causes clearance problems due to the ABF intake cam having more lift. The other option is to use a spacer or two stacked metal head gaskets on a N/A ABF,9A,6A. The latter gives approx 9:1 compression ratio.
Yeah, I've got a 9A at the minute, but not sure if it's going to survive the rebuild process, or if it's better to replace it. If I can find a decent 2E motor (and they're getting a bit long in the tooth, so it's not totally easy) then I reckon that's got to be stronger than stacking gaskets. I've got 3 'KR' heads and 3 sets of cams (2x KR, 1x ABF) to choose from including the 9A type head that's on it just now. Aiming for a roadgoing / track day setup. Maybe 250 bhp or a bit more? Do any of the 1.8 20v bits fit, or do all the manifolds and pipework need to be fabricated ? Any other cars that can be used as donors for some of the bits? How do you guys fancy writing up a 2L 16v Turbo FAQ that covers where the bits come from, what management you're running, intercoolers, turbo types, what are the tricky bits... you know you want to
Yeah the stacked metal gaskets sounds dodgy but can work to high clyinder pressures. But you must use the metal ones dry and toruqe to spec. So far no problems and thats on std VW bolts. If using a tall block 2E, the dished pistons are better if you do not like gaskets or spacers and you have the benefit of stronger rods unlike the ABFs weaker units which in my case I replaced. Or buy JE/CP pistons that have the cut outs and dish for 9A forced induction. 250 bhp is easy to get out of this especially if you have a better flowing head,so less turbo boost for the same CFM. But what you should aim for is good torque from 3000-6000 revs peaking at 4500. This is what will determine the feel and the eventual output. As more 16vTs are surfacing I think it would be excellent to do a FAQ on this topic. I will be posting a write-up on my combination soon. I am waiting on a componet so that I can test for a result.
Yeah, makes a lot of sense... the 2E has the extra oil squirters round the piston skirt area too, which could help with cooling / lube at high temps. I'll have to do some more research on the piston + rod options. I'm trying to do it on a reasonable budget (although I'm not sure what this is yet) so starting out by buying uprated pistons isn't the ideal route. Could always machine cut outs in the 2E pistons - there must be a lot of meat on them round the lip of the dish, if I want to use the ABF cams. Do you know if the 9A pistons have the required cut-outs? I was thinking of trying the ABF cams in the 9A with the new head (once it's been to visit 'the shed')
9A N/A pistons do have the cut outs but no dish. 9A JP or CP turbo pistons come with cut out and dish. But you if you are going for 250ish bhp ( although you will get bored with this) you can use one of the 'gangsta' methods. Saying that you may be able to use 3A pistons in a 9A but I do not have what comp ratio this has worked out to. Only Tall block 2E/ADY so far. By the way the 2E short engine is very similar to the american ABA block.
250 would be a conservative estimate, and I think I might run out of talent before I get bored with that.
Went to the RR day at Stealth today: Last time at Stealth: 216.3 bhp 205.9 lb/ft This time: 222.0 bhp 218.4 lb/ft Gained a healthy little increase probably due to the engine being a bit more run in this time.
The 'lungs' seemed to have grown! It would be interesting to see what your car will do a striaght line.
Nearly as interesting as what yours can do in a straight line Looking forward to taking it to the pod next year and doing a few runs, seems like a lot of 16vTs are starting to sprout up.
16v turbo black smoke? hi.. iv just finished my turbo conversion on my golf 16v 2.0L... im still using the original ecu.. my car starts fine but when i rev it black smoke comes out the exhaust.. im guessing its the 440cc injectors putting in too much fuel since it has not been remapped yet cos im deciding on either remap or different ecu... any suggestions would be much appreciated thanks
