Thanks for that Jonny, I thought that was the case. The guy who can get it for me won't be able to do it for another month! What a pain. The search continues. Just a thought though, I can get the interior part of the loom off of him, and I can buy an uprated loom off of ebay, is that the complete bits I need, or is there a bit to join those together?
the uprated loom is only a small part of what you need, the reason im advising a new lighting loom is there is no telling what damaged that melted wire has done to other wires in the loom unless you feel like cutting the loom open and checkign for yourself
I'm definately going to replace the whole lot, as it seems pointless to do it any other way. It's just proving harder than I imagined getting the headlight loom.
I have managed to get all the bits I need now. All I have left to do is to replace the heater matrix, and the headlight loom in the engine bay. I have just plugged in the interior part of the headlight loom. I have temporarily plugged the heavily damaged yellow wire (pic below) back in so I can keep track of everything, but there isn't a connection the same as that on the replacement loom that I've still got to fit. I have a funny feeling that it is from the dim dip resistor, which I don't need anyway, but I just wanted to double check. Cheers guys.
If anybody can answer this for me, that would be great, I am hoping to get everything done whilst I am off this week.
i am pretty certain it is for that yes, if you follow it back where does it plug into the fusebox? Other thing it might possibly be for is fog lights, but I'm pretty sure it isnt.
It goes from the headlight switch into the connector, and then through the bulk head into the engine bay. My thought is that if that is just for the resistor, I can cut it out and forget about it. The rest of the loom looks good and in tact with no signs of damage.
haynes says its pin 56D, if you check the matching pin on the headlight switch itself it should say on there tis the only yellow wire on the whole switch though and it does indeed run direct to the dim-dip resistor.
After a couple of weeks off, and plenty of work. I have finally managed to get all the wiring back into my car. All that's left to do now is change the heater matrix, and put everything back together. I hope that everything still works when I test it. Thanks to all for their help and advice, and I will get some pics up when it is back in one piece, and looking smart again!
Sorry to resurect this thread, but I may need some more help. I have got the wiring all changed, and got the new heater matrix in. I re-connected the battery and tested everything, and apart from what looks like a couple of blown bulbs, all looked good. There are 2 problems though. For some reason, both the brake lights are constantly on, and will only go off when the battery is dis-connected. Any ideas what is causing this or how to rectify it. Secondly, and more worringly is the immobiliser. The immobiliser on the car requires you to put a small plug into a connecter on the dash, to make the light go out, like most of them i suppose. The light doesn't come on at all. It sometimes comes on when I turn the key to try and start the car, but even if I try to disable the immobiliser then, it doesn't work. When it was working, you could hear the fuel pump prime when the key goes in the ignition. I have tried to put a power pack on the car to see if it was a low battery, but that didn't seem to help. Please help me! I am so close to the finish line, and getting it back on the road. I am more than happy to get rid of the immobiliser, and fit another one, but I don't want to cut something out that I shouldn't. Cheers
1. look at the brake pedal, find the brake light switch. grab the plunger and yank it all the way out, push pedal a couple o times and all done 2. I would follow the wires from this till you find the control unit, then pull it out and re-join any wires that have been cut.
on some installations some people may cut a section of wire when connecting immombiliser. You may need to find the same colour wires and resolder together to get ciruit connected correctly.
I have now done exactly that, and there was an extra bit of wire that I needed to wire in. I have done that, and the light now comes on on the dash as expected, but the fob still won't disable the immobiliser. I'm a little bit lost as to what to do now though. I have also found some extra wires that I am not sure of where they connect, or what they do. Any help that anyone can give is greatfully recieved. This yellow wire is part of one of the looms that I have put in new, but the old one didn't have it on. I've no idea what this wire is, but it doesn't look original, as there is a new looking yellow connetor on it. These just seem to be 2 random connectors This connector fits on to the yellow one in the first pic, but I'm not convinced they are supposed to be joined. I don't remember dis-connecting this wire in the process, and I can't find a connector anywhere that looks like it fits on to it. I have obviously cut this wire at some point, but I'm not sure where from.
1. have a look at me fusebox faq, looks like j3? if so looks like its for the dim dip resistor so leave it 2. doesnt look factory, but where does it run to? 3. dont look like anything important, black plug might be handbrake/fluid warning? 4. comes from isv control unit, isnt used 5. electric adjustible headlight range control 6. key in ignition live, for radio
Cheers again Jonny, So by the sounds of it I don't need any of those. Will my radio still work with number 6 cut?
OK, I have spent most of the day putting the car back together. I do have a couple of problems though, which I hope aren't to serious. Before I put the dash back in I tried all the electrics, and apart from a main beam, and a front indicator not working, all seemed good. I then cut out the immobiliser because it was knackered, and wouldn't turn off. Everything was all wired back up, and the car started first time no problems. Since I put it back together, the indicators won't work. The light is on constanly dimmly, and when you put an indicator on either way it comes on as a solid light again but brighter. If you turn the hazzard lights on, the light on the dash flashes as normal. I can't find the plunger on the brake light switch to stop the brake lights coming on. All I can get my hands on is a cylinder and a loom? The water temp guage on the dash is not registering anything. I really hope I don't have to take the whole lot out again to fix that! The horn doesn't want to work either. Everything seems to be connected correctly, but nothing happens. All these things are obviously important for the MOT that needs doing shortly. Hopefully that is the last of the questions I will have to ask, and I can get on with the most importnat job, polishing and driving!!
