Hey all! I'm new so be nice? After surfing this forum for hours on end I've decided to sign up! I've put an ABF engine on K jet in my Mk2 Scirocco. Payed a local mechanic to wire it up as I dont hold that kind of knowledge. All well and good but I'm not getting a spark out of the coil, It's a brand new mk2 coil (Took so long to do this conversion both the coil I had and the one that came with engine were dead) I'm getting battery voltage in and out of the coil? Unplugged the king lead to the dizzy and plugged in a plug lead with plug on the end, should be sparking often but not sparking at all until ignition is flicked off and I get one single spark? Doing the test where you unplug the hall sender and test VE+/- voltage on the coil it is supposed to be 2v for a few seconds then nothing? I'm getting 6.5v permanently? Ordered a new distributor today. Anyone got any idea's of anything I can test to diagnose the problem? Or anything atall? I feel like I've tried everything now! Many thanks for reading
I had no idea... Until I hooked up VCDS No spark at all huh? 1) It's not the hall sender, an ABF with run with it without it connected. 2) If your crank position sender is fubar, it won't spark 3) If your immob is engaging, it will spark and fire 4) If your crank sender is khaput, you'll "still" get a faint spark when you turn to ignition and then there's nothing. 5) Check crank and knock sensors for bad connections. I'm always wrong with my MK2/ABF diagnostics, so wait for more knowledgable minds. Don't start spending dollars throwing parts at it, many of us have experienced it, becuase the CPS is behind the engine mount, we stray from the cause and the frustration begins, so the first thing to do... Here are a couple of pictures to give you an idea of what needs doing. 1) Hook up a diagnostic port and use VCDS lite to log the errors. ( It's a 12V+, Ground and signal wire, that's all) If there's a Sensor Implausible or No Signal. You need one of these. * They are hard to get to, it's one of the cables on the block mounting plate, the other two are knock sensors and take a look at them too. I don't know how to diagnose with a MM, it generates a digital signal, so it's not a hall type arrangment there are electronics in there generating a square wave. I'll leave it at that.
Thanks for the helpful suggestions! I will definitely look into the crank and knock sensors, sorry but forgot to mention its got a de- immobilised ECU? Also worth mentioning I'm not very good with cars! I took on this challenge as a leaning curve and have taught myself as I've gone along! So try to speak as if you are explaining to a small child? Thanks again for you reply!
A few stupid questions aswell but looking into the VCDS lite.. Where do I plug the lead into? The ECU? And where exactly is the block mounting plate? Thanks again, Jack.
Hey all! I'm new so be nice? After surfing this forum for hours on end I've decided to sign up! I've put an ABF engine on K jet in my Mk2 Scirocco. Payed a local mechanic to wire it up as I dont hold that kind of knowledge. All well and good but I'm not getting a spark out of the coil, It's a brand new mk2 coil (Took so long to do this conversion both the coil I had and the one that came with engine were dead) I'm getting battery voltage in and out of the coil? Unplugged the king lead to the dizzy and plugged in a plug lead with plug on the end, should be sparking often but not sparking at all until ignition is flicked off and I get one single spark? Doing the test where you unplug the hall sender and test VE+/- voltage on the coil it is supposed to be 2v for a few seconds then nothing? I'm getting 6.5v permanently? Ordered a new distributor today. Anyone got any idea's of anything I can test to diagnose the problem? Or anything atall? I feel like I've tried everything now! Should also add this whole experience has been a massive learning curve and I'm just teaching myself as I go along, so if you could speak in idiot terms that would probably be a massive help?lol Many thanks for reading!
Our resident sparks genius works office hours after the arrival of another progeny, unless our Aussie friends comment first you'll get an answer in the morning CGTI rocks welcome
It'll be the crank sensor behind the front engine mount on the block. Single spark, when ignition on, more than likely I'd say. It's the hardest of the jobs, so a lot of posts trying to sort it out goes around in circles for a while until you get the the sensor. Check the connectors attached to the block as well. There's two Knock sensors and the CPS sender. Wait for RubJohnny, he'll sort it out as my ABF is a 1995 on injectors, not Kjet.
The coil primary positive (+) terminal is at battery positive (nominally 12V) always. The coil primary negative (-) terminal is periodically pulled to 0V by the ECU or TCI unit to charge the coil and then cause a spark. If when you say "I'm getting battery voltage in and out of the coil" you actually mean you're seeing 12V on both the coil (+) and (-) then yes if the coil isn't being switched (no tachometer signal) then this is what you'd expect if the ignition is on but the engine isn't running. If the coil IS being switched (it's getting a tacho signal on the (-) terminal from the ECU in response to a hall/crank timing signal) then your voltmeter isn't going to give you a useful reading. A brief single spark when ignition turned on is quite normal. What's the test you're doing with the hall sender unplugged? I don't quite follow. The way I test the hall sender is to first check that there's at least 5V across the outer two of the three terminals on the hall sender connector. Then, while slowly rotating the engine, check that the hall sender middle terminal (with respect to chassis) switches between around 0V and at least 5V. Which ECU and fuel system are you using?
It's not the immobiliser as the car will spark, fire and then die as the immob kicks in. There's an electrical mounting plate on the side of the head near the the side flange, On there are two knock sensors and the CPS sender along with the big 25 pin connector. One of those is the CPS and the connectors get shorted from behind as the mounting frame slots into the connector's groove. This cracks exposing the connector to the mounting frame and it can short out.
Threads merged Jackman can you confirm if the car is on ABF or KJet management? you say its on kjet in your original post, then mention the ecu is deimmobilised which points to ABF management... If it looks like Blis' picture above with the big round plug and 3x 3 pin plugs then its ABF management
Yes it is definitely on Kjet, Sorry if I'm speaking in riddles, Geezer that sold it to me just said it was deimmobilised so just thought I should mention it. When I say I'm getting battery voltage in and out of the coil, I mean in the positive and out the king lead. Many Thanks for all the help!
I'm not following mate sorry, this engine is mostly KR parts.. The electrician who wired it up for me said it was wired like a KR engine? Come to think of it I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram I have is for a KR engine? Make any difference?
That pic is from an ABF, if yours isnt then Trev is correct and the ignition system may be completely different
right do you hear the fuel pump prime with ignition on, then run while the engine is cranking over? this assumes its been wired properly and is using the correct 67, 80 or 167 fuel relay in slot 2. check the earths on the side of the head and to the battery, and make sure you see 12v at the coil both with ignition on and while cranking on the starter motor
Yes I do hear the fuel pump.. Not sure about the Relays? How can I tell? Also I get 12v too the coil yes I'll look at earths when I'm home and have a mess around
The earth wire off the bracket for the dizzy, Where should I put that? ATM is on bracket next to distributor but seems abit silly earthing a bracket to a bracket? Thanks
the chunky braided one? it should go from the head to one of the bolts holding the coil on, it doesnt do much really I suspect its more for radio interference than anything. mines been missing for a couple years now as it finally packed in on the last lot of messing I did on my wiring looms the fuel relay should be in slot 2 on the fusebox, so see what number it is
