The wires are such a mess and I Have no idea what I'm doing Might have to pay someone to come have a look as just getting ****ed at it now
I doubt anyone will tidy it as well as you will, you're going to be in there again so start by identifying and untangling what you do know and try and keep the rest bundled as you sort through. It took me many attempts before I got it reasonable and there's no point strapping it down until you're done.
Had a look but I've come to the realisation I'm in way out of my depth with it, anyone know of a local member or anyone that would come have a wreckie? If not I'll have a pay a company just would rather pay a member
Jackman, the first thing I'd want to find out and ask another member to help with is whether the ECU works, I know you want to hear it fire up, that was the major cause of all the problems we had. If it has failed or the magic smoke escaped, then all the wiring work a member may do will end up in a total mess within a week, you really don't want that.... Then I'd disconnect all sundry electrical systems and focus on engine management. Ignition modules, fuel injection (even thought it's a Kjet, there are sensors there) hall senders, temp senders and the spark. How do I know this? Been there done that.. Who fixed it, I did.. But I couldn't have done it without confirming all my findings with RJ, he really knows his stuff! You have to be methodical, there's too much in the way for keyhole surgery, that's a specialists job, otherwise you'll feel like it's well over your head. It's not, there's everything you need here and the only thing (on an ABF) I could not test with a simple multimeter was the CRANK sensor and the ECU. The rest was mainly ground issues, poor connections, a fuse, or not connected at all. Buy a decent spool of brown wire. Identify all the ground points on the car first, and carefully organise your loom, inspect the connectors and harvest as many spares as you can from the wreckers, many of mine mine have been swapped with ones in better condition. http://racing.beachmums.com.au/wp-content/gallery/mk2/thumbs/thumbs_IMG_3653.JPG Listen and do everything John says whether it makes sense to you or not, as much as we are helpful members, there's a lot you can and should do before anyone else takes a look at it, they don't want to give you the bad news either and if you've released and unstrapped, cleaned and inspected the looms, cleaned the connectors and everything's laid out easy to see and work on, you'll have it sorted before you know it. Yes, I had to change my ECU, by process of elimination, it was the only thing left that I hadn't checked and my son's birthday present came to life 3 months late.
Okay mate, fair play. Surely if the coil is getting 12v it means the ECU and everything leading up to that point is working and the coil should be working? Thanks for all your wise words people
I'm getting 12v through the single black wire? Can anyone help me out with what's supposed to be going on with the others? Also as you can see the red one has a rough looking soldering job on it! If anyone would be able to tell me where the others are supposed to be going I will trace them all back Also I guy at work told me too test the coil buy hooking it up to a battery and sticking a lead and plug on the coil output, earthing the plug and tapping the coil positive on the battery positive, he said i should be getting a spark every time I complete the circuit by touching the positive with the positive on the coil but I ain't? Was he wrong or is my coil nackered? Just bought this coil new aswell
Alright I've had a read through the diagram and I think I've worked out where they go. Can anyone help me with how I can test any of them?
the coil is fed 12vstraight from the fusebox so the ecu has nothing to do with it up to that point, check if the ecu has 12v across pins 5 and 3, and the tci unit across pins 4 and 2. the rough joint on the coil wirign looks to be the rev counter signal back to the fusebox, not the end of the world even if broken but it looks like it will make contact at least. if this wire is allowed to earth though it'll kill the spark so make sure there are no other bodgy splices anywhere. is that the right type of coil to match the 16v leads though, I cant see the pin inside the hole for the late clip on leads (compare to your dizzy cap you'll see what I mean) but it could just be the angle of the picture
Okay thankyou, will have a look and update later. I get what you mean about the coil but am pretty sure that's just the angle of the picture. Cheers
Righty ho, On the TCI unit, if I test the pins 2 and 4 without it plugged in and ignition on I'm getting 6.7 volts, plug it in and test from the back I'm getting 11.7V. On the ECU I can only test without it plugged in as no access from back, and I'm getting 11.5V. The coil has a the necessary pin same as the distributor. What does that outcome mean? Thanks
ok if you get less voltage with the tci unplugged this suggests you have a bad connection somewhere as it should make no difference either way, plus you're seeing a bit of a voltage drop somewhere in the loom if your battery has over 12v when you're doing these tests. make sure the earths to the head and battery are good, or wherever they guy put them... ecu earth is pin 3 and tci earth is pin 2, and make sure you get a decent 12v at the coil +, if its still 11v then chase the black wires to the fusebox looking for issues, and check for voltage at the red wire and black wire at your ignition switch see if the volt drop is before or after this its also worth testing all of the above when the engine is cranking on the starter, make sure you dont see too much of a voltage drop
Right now with the ignition on I'm getting 11.6 at the TCI (pin 2 & 4), plugged in or not, dont know how I got that wrong before. When the engine is turning over I'm getting anything from 8.7-9.2? The black wire from the coil I'm getting a proud 12v when the ignition is on, and anything from 9 - 10 when the engine is turning over? Battery is dead for tonight which is a pain. If I follow the black wire back will I get to the ignition switch? And also I don't currently have an earth on my block as far as I'm aware, I'm making some earth leads up in work at the moment. Currently I have earthing from the top of the gearbox (bolt near engine mount) - Inside of the wing - Battery? Can anybody tell me if these earth points are any good? Thanks
right the ignition power all sounds fine to me, so we can move on. Your engine must be earthed reasonably well as it will turn over fine on the starter, but I would upgrade to the late mk2 and mk3 earth point which is to a stud on the end of the rear gearbox mounting bolt to the engine. while you're there bung some mk3 battery cables on there bit more beefy plus they have a nice battery clamp design. You'll find the chassis earth ring on the mk3 cable wont reach the leg, what I did on my cab was get 2 mk3 earths and cut the 2nd one down so I was left with a length of cable with a ring either end, then 1 end to leg and clamped the other to the main earth ring with a nut and bolt. The mk3 cables are 25mm2 which is more than good enough I'd try to get another TCI unit and look at the dizzy as well, pretty much any VW electronic one will do for testing plug it to your loom and spin it by hand while watching for a spark
Okay that's good! Okay will do, where would you suggest I earth on the block and bodywork? Okay I'll buy a replacement TCI and I've got a new dizzy already so would hope it wouldn't be that Any more tests I should do? Thanks
With the tci you said aslong as its vw it doesn't really matter on the part number right? As in what letter it ends in?
