Apparently if you have a broken cam belt and bent valves all you need to do is put a new belt on and rev the t1ts off it to straighten the valves. From a PH thread..
lol Thanks for that. Most sustained chuckle of the day. My eyes are firmly shut to that kind of 'knowledge'.
I will try that then on a connect van i have,,,,,,,,,,or maybe not, the engine is already junked. Its almost as good as the port and polish with sand in the intake myth.
Before doing this procedure the brake disc retaining screws obviously have to be securely in place to stop the manifold welds blowing. Also if the oil pressure warning sounds, it means that the oil needs topping up above MAX.
Oh it could be worth a shot if you were to sell it or as you say scrap it. But who would be happy driving to work or going on holiday say with the wife and two kids knowing the the valves have been bent one way then the other and that there is a fair chance of snapping a valve and you being in a whole new world of pain.
or it's a pug that's not got a interference engine and no ones has a clue ! Stuff like that's so funny, thanks GVK
on an old car aye perhaps. Can you see what a modern car would do with cats and sensors all over the place I bet Ajax getting burnt off in the system would well confuse it.
I knew I had some dodgy stories from years gone by Rings worn given too much HC's at MoT test, change some the oil for this special oil, for short term use only - apparently thicker Gear oil worked a treat (75W mineral?) got it right though the emissions it Bloody stank !! old oil back in afterwards when a cars for the scrapper or spend money it was a cheap short term fix given the cost even for a 2nd hand engine!
I used to get heavy smokers through the MoT by using straight SAE90 hydraulic oil - worked a treat, Nothing was getting past those rings! Stuff wouldn't even pour properly, you had to stick a big funnel in the filler hole and fill the funnel, then come back in a bit and fill it again until it hit the bottom of the dipstick... Also tried the Ajax trick - didn't work. I still have the Ajax in the garage - lemon scented!
You need to FILL the engine, not just top it up. That means buying enough oil and putting it in so that it comes out the cam cover. Sadly, one of my Mum's friends actually did this - drove 2 miles that way to my house for me to fix it. At least it was engine oil... same woman, once I'd drained down the oil, needed a top-up about a month later - she's seen me check the dipstick loads of times while draining it down, so got a small kitchen funnel and topped it up a litre through the dipstick hole. Well known woman's trait. Hands up who has changed the oil and filter, then put in the new oil without replacing the sump plug? I raise both hands...lol
Oh, and my uncle still repairs bent valves from old Lister Diesels by rolling them along the workbench, then knocking with a lead/copper mallet to straighten them. Once they're straight, he grinds them in again and away you go. Suppose you can get away with it on a big old 1500rpm generator engine - he's had one going for 50 years, and straightens the valves every 10 years or so. Must be malleable as anything!
A pair of 'academic' type brothers were out in their Ford Orion one night and the oil light came on. They rang their Dad who advised to check oil /top up and try again. They put some oil in and light was still on , so they put some more in... and more until it wouldn't even run. Car was recovered in and we drained about 10-15litres out of it, including the complete air box & Carb. full of oil so it was running out of the intake. (1400 CVH takes 3.7 litres!!) Oil strainer was blocked causing no oil pressure. As I mentioned, they were academic types with no sort of common sense, one of them went on to be a civil engineer designing roads etc!! Parz, I filled an RS Turbo up with oil once after putting the head back on, wondered why the best part of 4 litres of Mobil 1 was on the floor!! I hadn't put the distributor back in the head at that stage and the oil just ran out. Epic Fail!!!
