Running a VR6 turbo?

Id avoid a paddle clutch if you can, I hated mine. Sachs uprated one will be sufficient unless your going big power.

 

400lb/ft'ish...

 

If that is the peak, which will be at 4000-5000rpm then I would suggest as coullstar.

 

i'm taking it that would be as far as you could go with standard internals in terms of reliability?

 

VRT's have been known to handle around 600hp on standard internals, however one engine could handle it all day long & another may pop straight away. The VR's have a somewhat diesel design so the rod/stroke ratio is quite good for reliability/piston velocity.

When going FI you're adding denser air and often shifting the peak torque higher up the rev range. If you go the spacer route then head studs add higher tensile strength so when air is compressed in the compression stroke of the cycle it adds a little safety in that respect, better strength to stop the head lifting.
The rods are always an integral part that come under severe stresses and as such HD/aftermarket rod bolts have a higher tensile strength which again adds safety, these two parts do give you a cheaper viable option than going the fully forged route depending on the condition of your engine.

However, the above are a few hundred quid to buy which is also the same as many VR engines off the bay so some people may just choose to buy another engine and use standard parts. You can spend thousands on an engine and the only real reason you do is for safety, however, you also need to build an engine correctly because you can spend thousands on parts and have some monkey fit it incorrectly and then it goes pop!

 

The link for that cheap SRIM:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Ansaugbrucke...897098480?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item3a6aa1e6f0

 

I'm using a Clutch Master FX400 w/ 6 paddle Carbon Kevlar disc & it seems fine to me. I'm also using a 10lb. flywheel.


Pulled it out the garage the other day for some pic's...





Stock block. Stock head. No cams. 9:1 headspacer. 17psi. Wavetrac LSD in a stock tranny. Spins the tires in 1st thru 3rd at the same time i can drive a whole week without ever getting into boost. It drives like a normal VR6...till you get past 4000rpm .


RBPE is spot on with everything he said. Only advice i can give is that the quality of the build determines the longevity of the engine & it's components. A refreshed stock engine & 300hp will last a long time...providing you have quality parts.

Good luck & it will all be worth it in the end. Trust me. I had the giggles for the 1st week. Nothing sounds better then a VRT!....

 

Nice car!

Makes want VrT all over again!

 

Ive run at 0.5 bar for 2 years on a 130K motor and its still driving fine, 9:1 head gasket spacer being the only engine modification. As others have said these engines are so cheap its not the end of the world if it lets go.

Im using a Helix Paddle and pressure plate, its a bit of a pain as I have a cable setup and wouldn't recommend it if you have to do a lot of stop start driving.

 

I'm collecting bits still...got this socketed ecu for the price of 3 beers

 

Iv always wanted a vr6t, but the miles i do make it a bit too costly to fuel

Would pay to be a passenger in one though for the experiance if anyone has one down south!