Yes, paint doesn't conduct electricity. Measure the voltages at various places along the way (take the 0V point as the battery terminal) while the car is being started, and you'll be able to work out where the current is being lost (ie because a voltage drop occurs).
Sorry Paul, my knowledge of electrics is pretty bad - Can you explain in more detail... Are we talking about the battery-to-starter lead?
If you have paint between the solenoid-to-starter strap or any other electrical connection for that matter, scrape it off first... You should really connect the - pole on the battery with the block using a jump lead, it's the easiest check ever... On almost all old cars i've tried this on, it made a big difference, starter turning over much better, an extra earth cable might just fix your problem for no cost, so be sure to check this first... If the problem isn't fixed yet and you want to play with ignition timing, scribe a curved line just along the 10mm bolthead, so you can always easily return it to what timing you run now... If you want to know how many degrees you're changing the timing, you can work it out by calculating the circumference (and this 'distance' equals 360)
Right, I've wired in a second earth from the battery to the gearbox. I'm sure it will help but it still started like a dog... I've also noticed that sometimes when the engine turns and fires (from stone cold), its slow (as in rpm) and then quickens up to idle. I'm not sure if that makes sense...?
The paint is only on the body of the starter motor and solenoid as pictured... I'll try and remove it anyway. I might invest in a diesel starter motor - will a mk3 starter fit?
I've just been out with the torch! I can't seem to see where the spade terminals go to... The only wire attached on the gearbox earth point is the main earth cable that runs to the chassis and then battery.
can you give a quick recap of what youve actualy done to try and fix it id still be thinking cables myself..
New battery New alternator Replacement starter motor (standard + painted as pictured) New battery-to-starter cable Cleaned earth points and starter motor wiring Doubled up earth cable (battery-to-g'box) Basically when the engine is stone cold, the engine will turn but can stop for a split second, and then it will continue. Alternatively (or as another problem) it will turn and fire but will rev below idle and build up to idle. As in, it chugs away on firing for 2-3 seconds, building rpm until it is idling cleanly.
mine used to do a similar thing...i replaced all the battery /starter /alt cables and its cured have you put a mulimeter on the battery? just cus its new it might be dud or partialy flat? u still on msn ? i added you but havent seen you in a while
Yep, still on MSN - on it now in fact. Not recently tested the battery, but I recall it being fine when tested in the past. Even got a check at Halfords. I'm tempted to pick up a diesel starter motor anyway. Maybe I should replace the alternator-to-battery wiring?
the wires youve replaced , are they properly crimped /soldered or something you diy'd with pliers? best get a cheap multimeter on the battery while someone cranks it , and then on the starter terminal and see whats going on no point in using a diesel starter if its not getting the juice
All the wires are properly crimped etc. Car has been stood for just over a day and the battery is only reading 12.2V. Pigbladder reckons it needs a trickle charge so maybe I'll invest in a battery charger.
