my mate has been having a similar problem on his mk1, apparently a jet keeps getting blocked, he removes it, blows through it, re fits it and teh car drives fine, not sure whats causing it to block though
i've got a weber keiran, where are you cos i can come round and fit it /fix your car if you want? (bit of a promise but i want to see your car at the next cgti meet!)
oh by the way you are all wrong the early gg(engine code not a horse noise!) engines do not have a coolant feed to the inlet manifold or an electrical pre heat all they have is a tube from the exhaust behind the engine to the bottom of the inlet manifold. i think they may have a jet heater on the carb but i cant remember. the problem your having kieran sounds like carb icing, and the cause is probably the hot air feed from the exhaust to under the inlet manifold.
t_r_d: I think you'll find YOU are wrong We've already been through this, established that there are no carb heaters and coolant feeds, and that the warm air feed doesn't appear to be the problem as we have already made sure it is working properly.
ok im all webered up and still, i have a kangaroo problem, again when the car gets hot, i start to kangaroo then grind to a halt..... i also have a k&n sat on top of the weber too, please someone help coz now ive tried pretty much everything hang on you say theres a warm air flap at the BACK of then engine too? i take it you are not talking about the one from the exhaust manifold to the original air box...as this one is at the front (and now not present since ive fitted t_r_d's weber and k&n how should i check this other one....are there any 'flaps' or anything which should be opening? Edited by: K13_RAN
no there is a heater pipe from the exhaust up to back of the inlet manifold to heat it to prevent carb icing no flaps just a corrigated/mesh flexi tube off of the downpipe to the bottom of the manifold! part numbers 29 to 35ish.
Is that not the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) pipe? Stick the original airbox back on and get it on a rolling road and get someone who knows what they are doing with carb's to set it up correctly. Or prior to that, see what your engine compression is like first. When you say 'when the car gets hot' do you mean normal operating temperature?
why would a rolling road be benificial? the car has a standard replacement carb(on base settings for engine),standard cam, standard vernier, and standard ignition. surely running it on factory settings is the only viable option bar advancing the ignition by two to three degrees? that pipe merely directs exhaust gasses to the inlet manifold to heat it, like a preheat or coolant flow like on later engines, there is no recirculation.
the heater pipe is all there and seems fine, not rusted or anything like that. (by hot yeah i mean normal operating temp) heres the deal, the car used to kangaroo and then die on me under any load condition. but things have changed since fitting the weber, its seems now that (again only when it gets into operating condition) its only when theres load on the engine 3500rpm+, the car will kangaroo like crazy until you release the throttle, if you put the throttle back on again the same will happen. to me it sounds like either fuel starvation or something arcing out on the ignition side of things....but as ive replaced pretty much everything im stumped!!! Edited by: K13_RAN
You have to take into account the condition of the engine, each engine has lead a different life from the next, you cant just bolt the carb on and it's done and dusted, you still have to manually adjust it to right settings and you need an exhaust gas analyser to make the final adjustments. (correct, you dont necessarily need to take it to an RR)
oh i know, ive set the CO up on the gas analyser at work, 1.5% CO and set the idle to about 750/800 rpm, sounds lovely sat there idling, drives lovely when cold too what other adjustments are there on carbs to set up? sorry if that sounds dumb, but still learning about carbs and thought idle and mixture were pretty much all you could set up.....? Edited by: K13_RAN
have you replaced your condensor and points? do this if not. if you are getting fuel starvation check the fuel lines and the air inlet on the tank, as if these are blocked poor fuel flow would occur and could not cope with booting it. if not check the vacuum advance unit on the distributor isn't faulty by sucking on the pipe that goes to the carb, if you can keep sucking then its ok, if not replace it.(i dont think this wouldn't cause those symptoms tho as the vacuum advance leans off at higher revs) also check the advance weights in the distributor havent seized, if these were faulty it would cause a misfire when above about 3k rpm. correct me if im wrong please, but again thats not really the symptoms you are describing.
yeah ive changed the points and condensor, theyre werent in a very good state!! i bought the car at christmas and prior to that it had been sat in a garage for a couple of years apparently, dont know whether this would have anything to do with it? i'll check those things with a little more light tomorrow.....any other suggestions anybody?
the weights in the distributor could've seized. have you replaced your fuel pump? if you have and its still starved of fuel, you could have warn cam lobes and tappets??(but then it would be tappety?)
yeah ive also replaced the fuel pump, but... when i turned the engine off and opened up the bonnet to have another check around, i could hear a faint ticking/clicking from the fuel pump...is this normal? would a picture of the cam lobes enable you to see if they were worn? if so i'll get a picture posted up it sounds a little tappety, but i wouldnt say it sounded overly tappety Edited by: K13_RAN
probably not just by a photo, unless they are severly flattened how about your plugs? have you replaced them? if the insulation has broken down in the ceramic then they could be earthing out when they heat up? halso the same with the rotor arm and dizzy cap i think.
