0.14v at a current of 60A (not sure but a reasonable guess I think)gives a resistance of 0.0023 ohms?
As pointed out by Mark above, this is only a test of the earth strap between the engine and body but I think that grounding problems with the ECU would be more obvious than the problem you see. Check the ECU ground pin to body but I suspect it will read OK. My experience with "spiked" semiconductors is that they fail short circuit. They NEVER get "spiked" and then work in a spurious manner. Semiconductors will withstand over current and recover to some extent - within limits of course -but will seldom withstand over their rated voltage, at which point they fail short circuit in all but the most catastrophic cases. They then fail open circuit. 20 years of my working life so far and no surprises regards the above.
cool,ill check the earth pin on the ecu again just to be sure. thanks a lot for the help/info so far m8 neil.
ok guys... i did more testing before i stuck trevs ecu in. working from this pic/link with (first numbers ignition off/second ignition on) and no ecu each time. 1- .9ohms-1.8ohms 2- 883ohms-0ohms 12- 5.4ohms-15.9ohms 13- .5ohms-.6ohms 19- .5ohms-1.5ohms 24- 82.5ohms-89.0ohms anything weird there guys? anyway,i popped trevs ecu in,fired it up and it was ticking over a little fast-1k/1.1k rpm,revved it a few times and the revs were hanging about(slow to come down) so i popped the bts off thinking it may reset sommet revved 3 times and got the shock of my feckin life! erm flames out of the bottom of the throttle body! it was popping like usual,and could really feel the boost pipe to t-body bang when it did it. so i stuck the bts back on and the popping went. started and stopped it a few times and it wasnt farting,but driving home it was doing it now and again on throttle and thats where im upto,oh and on the way to get some optimax,i blew a civic type r at 130ish mph neil.
sorry m8,i mean out of the hole where the boost return pipe used to go,it just vents to air now instead of back into the charger. cheers m8,neil.
flames came out of the top right part here in this pic,when fitted to the car this bit points straight down.
And i wish my car was slow enough to paste type r's lol. Will the ignition timing and idle not need reset with the ecu swap?
wellllll,i kept my eye on the afr which just said 'fahoookin rich' so i wasnt gonna melt anything,i dont think i was thinking this also,plus the standard chip shouldnt work too well with a smaller pully should it i really cant be arsed trying to borrow a timing light again,and then all that unplugging/revving business again,its doin my feckin head in messin with it every FECKIN day more a less [:^(] if its doing silly shit with this ecu/standard chip,is it the timing or is it the same problem? ive lost the plot tbh. cheers,neil.
not checked the harness out yet m8,im having a break from this thread today,im feeling like crap cheers,neil.
well guys i dont know what to make of it at the mo,it hasnt done the full on farting/popping on idle yet,but its done it while pressing the throttle. and today its been very! intermittent on power,it did this before with the superchip,and when im going full throttle the afr gauge is still cycling for a while untill the revs build up then it just goes fully rich as im changing gear but yet at idle its reading rich,feck knows tbh... guys with the g60's,if you keep stabbing your throttle,does it do this? the farting? dont suppose someone with a few tools,timing light etc wants to take a look? ive actually got another dizzy,i was wondering if the one i borrowed was faulty? but then the fault wouldnt clear up would it? im really confused and blagged by it. trev,would you like me to send the ecu back m8? cheers again to everyone for the help so far. neil.
^^^^anyone? i bought a timing light and a compression tester today,and noticed that when i have the crank pully and cam at tdc there is no mark on the flywheel new light and comp tester: and the results of the compression test,i have no idea wether these are good or bad,but theyre looking even enough i think??? no.1-165 psi. no.2-162 psi. no.3-162 psi. no.4-170 psi.
riley are you putting your foot down on the acceleartor when you are testing the compression?? you need to do this to create a vacuum. and have you done it with adding a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder?? do this then report back. Those figures look fine, but we dont know how you tested it do we?? wet? dry?
Send the ECU back when you've definitely finished with it. There's no rush. In the meantime it might be useful for you to have it there just in case, until you get this problem solved. Just a thought.
thanks trev m8 if you need it back,let me know asap,ill look after it while ive got it.and like you say,may come in handy,im still running it actually... which is why i think im not going fully rich at wot? gareth you reckon the compression looks good? anyone know for sure if it is? being a low comp/charged motor i dont have a clue tbh Edited by: riley
