For standard timing on a carb dizzy you set with vacuum line still connected to 18 degrees BTDC, if you still have carb flywheel the big diamond is in the right place so you just line that up. once happy, tweak it with a bit more advance and see how you go
So 37mm from the tdc mark on flywheel, thanks. Cheap yato timing gun died on me, worked about whole 2 minutes.
yep if your flywheel isn't from a carb originally you can make a new diamond marker using that measurement
Just came from the car, looks like i have the diamond mark, at 37mm, and i was running over 20 mm over the diamond so about 27' btdc. I put it now 10mm over diamond see how it runs. Set it with vac connected and about 900 idle. I was feeling some judder when off the gas, too much advanced maibe?
So, i just want to get more out of it, like a 1.8 conversion with 1.8 crank and pistons. I have to keep the original block because the engine code and serial are written in car registration. The engine can be exchanged with the same type and capacity or within 40% power difference and papers wont cost much. The 1.8 crankshaft+pistons should bump the ponneys up a little. From what engines or car models i need to take the parts? Same period maybe, carburetor or not? The mk3 crank 2.0 agg that i have, i read it will not fit. A 1.8 mk3 complete engine is about 80euros. Thanks a lot. The crank should be 026105101F or 026105101E,from engine codes GU,RV,RG,RH, PB,PF,RP?? these are mk2 engines i think, little harder to find and a bit more expensive.
026105101E is also fitte4d to MK3 engine code ABS, AAM, ANP, ADZ and ANN plus various passat engine codes. you also need the piston 026107065R which is used on the 1.8 carb & gti mk2 PF, RV, GU, RH and PB, plus MK3 ABS & ADZ amongst others.
10s 0-100 km/h, i am hearing some high pitch sound close to redline, dont know what it is. This is just with gti cam and exhaust manifold plus downpipe.
I just bought a 1.8 GU 90hp engine. Its a little beat up, but all bearing journals look good, pistons are a little worn on compression ring groove, but with new rings should fall within 0.15 mm. Bought all parts for the transplant, this week i hope to get started. Measured the GU camshaft and has 47,5 total lobe height vs 44,5 for the AGG cam vs 42,5 for the EZ cam. I was a little surprised. It is a mechanical lifter cam.
Few times engine died with my foot on the clutch, and when i tried to start it just wouldn't turn over, like it was stuck. After multiple tries it turns over and starts. Tried this without spark, and does the same, even tries to start without SPARK. Another thing is this knock i hear when i start the engine, like a diesel on too much starting fluid type of knock. Anyway i fear it has to be disassembled again, it has a vibration when i feather the clutch in reverse, plus at some high rpms. I suspect the main journals are worn and have excessive play. I feel sorry for not measuring them, or the CR. I measured crank end play, it was 0.04mm well below 0.07 specified. I attached a audio file with the knock at startup. Ignition timing is 10mm over diamond mark.
Keeps getting better Yesterday morning, this morning and evening, engine starts fine runs fine and after 10-20s runs very rough on 2-3 cylinders, misfiring. Keeping the throttle eventually gets going on all four. This evening after the engine stopped from misfiring, i pumped the gas pedal then it sounded like it had no compression. After 5 seconds cranking sounded ok and started, still misfiring. Maybe on cold start there is too much fuel and pumping the pedal gets more fuel but i don't see how it would affect compression, or there is a problem with the lifters. Compression after 10 min running the engine was 100 psi on all four. burns some oil too, about 1l/100km. These are the parts i bought, the codes were matched with aftermaket parts 026109675 valve seal febi N 90592702 044103609D oil pan seal febi 026103181B flywheel seal 068103171F flywheel seal 026103383P cyl head gasket febi 049103384B cil head bolts febi 034105701 007 rod bearings GLyCO 026198491 main bearings GLyCO N 90206103 flywheel bolts febi 026198151A piston rings GOETZE 026109173A timing belt cover febi 026129761E carb flange topran 037121005C water pump hepu I also got some numbers on main bearing shell from the old GU engine, and i dont know what they mean. There was vw stamped on them and number 052561a 165sa. Is this std?
was that done with throttle wide open? if so its way low, double check your timing. can use this thread for reference the cam and crank, distributor also but for ignition timing you set that either to 6 degrees BTDC with distributor vacuum line disconnected and plugged if using a kjet EV/DX dizzy, or 18 degrees BTDC with vacuum line connected if using a carb dizzy. either way you can dial in more advance once the engine is running happily
I now have intermitent low oil pressure. After misfiring got oil light flashing. Engine was noisy, measured the pressure and at 1000rpm got nothing, at 4k got 15-20psi. I towed it home 20km, and after starting the engine again no more oil light/buzz and engine sounds ok again and its hot. Found the answer for some of my problems.
Also found oil on top of all pistons, must be from the rings because valves are dry. Crank case gases were venting outside from a day before. The bores must be out of round.
Bores are good except minor scratching. 0.02 mm out of round, max is 0.04 81.06 max measured bore size with 81.01 new. I will buy a drill honing tool and thats it. The failure was from mounting error, the center main bearing did not match the oil hole în the block, so no oil to center bearing. I do not know yet to replace the crank or regrind. I tried to measure cr and came up with about 10:1. Combustion chamber 30cc, piston dish 10cc, headgasket 8 cc. Bore 81 stroke 86.4. I do not know piston projection. Some calculator came with 9.7:1 other 10.17:1, either is good.
I checked all but the center to match the oil supply in the block. Anyway i bought a second engine, a mk3 golf 1.8 AAM 75hp for less than first GU engine, and less than a regrind, in much better shape. Also aquired some plastigauge from UK (cant find in my country, because no one needs it), again head bolts, both sets of bearing shels. I will reuse piston rings. One thing doesnt add up. If the oil supply was plugged why I had a lack of oil pressure? My uncle said perhaps the high pressure relief on the pump was stuck open from metal particles.
The mk2 GU pistons are worn on top ring groove almost 0,20 from max 0,15mm factory spec. How bad is this? The mk3 AAM pistons are very good but have a dish of 15cc so no good for me. I was thinking, the 2.0 crank plus milled aam pistons, but top of piston to ring is only 6,8mm, and i have to clear 6,4mm from 1.8 stroke to 2.0.
