Lobe centres are 110 on Inlet and 114 degree on Exhaust... Infact you could say its both on 112 degree and 2 degree advanced at the cambelt pulley > the inlet opens sooner and the exhaust close sooner Altough here the 2 degree advance has been been done on the cam itself ( location of the cam pulley )
Okay so exhaust close was off by 4 degrees, it is negative two. First i have to fit the printed diagram with 0 to tdc, then align intake center at 110atdc on diagram, after finding intake center with a dial gauge. This should be good, maybe check the exhaust center too.
Dont worry, set the Inlet @ 110 and ignore the exhaust... as there is nothing you can change to the exhaust timing on a 8V... Its a base setting to start with, for best performance you can try some degrees advance or retard to find maybe a few extra pony`s > as long there is enough safe distance between valves and piston
I just checked the cam timing and i got 109* intake center. The 1 degree could be measuring error. Before i fitted a 4bar fpr checked the afr again and was 14.4. With the 4bar fpr top end 13.1, not a difference in power. Top speed 195km/h, so not much more poneys. Still about 8s to 100km/h.
Etka says connecting rods are same as 1.8t agu, so no problem to 200hp. I want more poweeeer, was thinking about mercedes superchargers. Used are about 140 euros, turbo is better but i have to replace my cheap 421 header and i just ot it. A piggyback ecu i can afford ecumaster det3 is 200e new. It does not support sequential injector firing. In all of this i have to keep the block and pistons as they are 0.5 over. SC might be fine with +0.6bar boost, but if i turbo it i fear i will destroy the engine by wanting more boost more poweeeee! Hehe, what a pandemic virus, covid-like!
When i replaced the oil pump i replaced the oil baffle from the 2.0 which has oil squirters, could this affect oil splashing cylinders to alter cylinder lubrication? The 2.0 oil baffle is bigger, covering most of the crank.
It depend on what the car is being used for... If its a roadcar, both the large plastic from the 2.0L engine OR the ABF windage tray will do.... and avoid the crank is slamming into the oil
Roadcar yes, piston noise keep increasing, thought i can blame on that. I believe the fuel pump might fail on me. While driving or idle afr rise to 17-18, started to judder a little, but if i floored it it would go down to 12-13. Did this 4 times today. Could be the o2 sensor as couple days ago i resealed the connection before the sensor, maybe sealant affecting it somehow.
Fitted the 3bar fpr and its worse when playing up, afr getting over 20. I unplugged the lambda sensor and so far ran fine. Did a fault scan, got lambda regulation upper limit, lower limit, no signal and implausible signal all of them intermittent. This was a new delphi sensor.
I only use Bosch make lambdas, never had any problems. you can use one of the universal types sometimes they work out cheaper sometimes not. LS03 is the universal code for your AGG, 021906265R is direct fit VW code
Thanks, problems started after i did some work on the exhaust. I will probably get the specific lambda, there is just 100lei/18gbt more than the universal bosch. Fitted a helmholtz resonator, a piece of 51mm diameter about 50cm long pipe before back box to reduce some drone, but no difference. Got to replace one straight through box with a chambered one, to reduce exhaust speed/noise.
Lately i think its starting to ping a little, on lower rpm and above 50%throttle. AFR still good 14-15 with the original 3bar fpr. So looks like pay more for 100 gasoline or fit the 4 bar fpr, see what works.
Almost left me stranded, again! Pulling away in 3rd suddenly started to drop revs, struggling to do one more km to a parking lot. AFR gauge indicated above 20 so lean mixture, thought fuel pump, so removed fuel line from tank and got some pressure. It starts and runs ok for 1s then misfires and dies sometimes, died as soon as i gave it some throttle. Replaced fuel regulator, no change, unplug lambda, no change. I managed to get home, 70km away with maf, dizzi, and coolant temp unplugged, still very lean mixture 18-20 and poor performance. Will check pressure and flow on the fuel pump as symptoms indicate low fuel.
Thats what i said, fuel pump. Filters on petrol cars last over 100k, usually. Fuel flow and pressure under my finger felt ok, but i need to put a gauge on.
What a saga ! i too have a mk2 with a 2.0 gti mk3 engine in it...goes well...took a mk3 cabriolet for a spin last night and felt asthmatic with only 100bhp...
Found the problem, never seen, heard, or expected this! Broken injector rail! Internal return pipe going to regulator broke, so all pressure escaped to the tank via return. I think it had a leak for some time as it took some turns to start, so pressure dropped to 0 every time. In time it broke completely so fuel pump could not keep up with the leak. Turns out fuel pump is very good, got up to 6bar.