GTI cam for increased power

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by davidut5, Oct 14, 2018.

  1. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Seems the exhaust was making the ticking sound
    I have fitted the ss header and the ticking is gone, and is not touching anywhere. It fits no problem.
     

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  2. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Looks like you have sorted this, well done for sticking with it

    Jon
     
  3. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Thanks Jon.
    Well, one piston came bent. They sent me another one for next week.
    I machined the mk3 distributor to match my block. I will use the small sprocket, but i hope the rpm is the same.
    One more thing to resolve is the crank trigger. I will put the agg trigger wheel on the crank pulley with agg sensor, i just hope to get the timing corect.
    I got the block from machine shop but cannot start assembling because of the bent piston.
    Wiring and ecu will be sorted after the engine is in the car.
    I hope you understood that i plan on converting to agg mpi injection.
     

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    Last edited: Nov 21, 2019
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  4. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    pistons obviously scrap.. keep us updated, way too few engine builders around nowadays...
    Jon
     
  5. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Im trying to get the engine running and will continue the rest after that.
    I have tried immo off but cannot do it, but found the matching key.
    The crank sensor is not reading ok, now starts with long crank. Need to check position again.
    Also the black white wire from ecu where does it go? -found it, g2 pin four.
    Also on immo from e pin two there is no power. Or it comes from junction box? I can splice to d11 or d12 i guess.
    I noticed that rev counter does not work, i read about negative from coil. There is no signal wire in the fuse box? Where does it come from on mk3?
     

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    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    E/2 doesn't supply the power for the immo box, instead it is fed from the black jumper block above the fusebox which is fed from D/8 originally, pin 9 and 11 will also do you fine. E/2 is the ignition live input pin for the MK3 clocks, on a MK2 you don't need anything in there so you could just run the immobiliser direct to one of the above pins.

    for the rev counter you need to run a wire from G1/12 to the negative terminal under the flap in the side of the coil if you're keeping the mk3 one
     
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  7. davidut5 Forum Member

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    :thumbup:Thanks for helping!

    Hope this week to get it on the road.
    First few starts were fine, started right up, then long crank and got that crank sensor signal error



    Hope this week to get it on the road.
     
  8. davidut5 Forum Member

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    I went for a drive but barely came back. It has lumpy idle, dies under wot, starts very hard long crank. Runs ok when cold.
    I believe the fuel pump is shot, had some problems priming first start. Fuel flow was very low and inconsistent. It was from scrappy, guy said it was from a 2.0.
    Has lambda regulation upper limit and evap valve errors.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2019
  9. davidut5 Forum Member

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    The fuel pump is good, 2.5bar idle, rise to 3bar blip on throttle.
    Big problem is with crank speed ring timing.
    It was sputtering misfiring stalling barely made it to gas station, after that ran well with dizzi disconnected.
    Now after adjusting speed ring a bit, runs well with dizzi plugged in.
    And pulls better with maf unplugged.

    L.E.
    Turned out fuel pump had a misplaced o-ring that caused the pump to not deliver while hard driving.
    I love used parts, you never know what you get![8-}]
     

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    Last edited: Dec 19, 2019
  10. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Temp gauge is not working well, rises just above a quarter, with engine temp at 90C. I could fit the black two pin sensor i guess.
    And idle is high at 1000rpm, i have done calibration with vagcom, it was about 800rpm then, but after few runs rose back to 1000.
    Some acceleration times, 8s to 100km/h and about 17s to 140km/s.

     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2019
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the mk3 sensor should work the dash perfectly, maybe its under-reading a bit for some reason. you could fit the old mk2 2 pin sensor to compare readings though that'll tell you if its the sensor or not.
     
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  12. davidut5 Forum Member

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    The flange has two mountings for sensor, i will try a new sensor before fitting the old 2 pin one. I have a yellow one now from AAM.
    I managed to put a filter element and housing from a mk2, and integrated the mk3 maf. The lower part was already drilled, makes a nice sound, maybe too loud.
    I also bought a pb camshaft, lift is the same as AGG but has more duration, AGG lobes are sharper. How much difference you think it is between them, few hp? To grind fourth journal would be cheaper than what i paid for the cam itself about 40quid from uk. Its less than 80quid for an entire crank, so one small journal on a camshaft cant be too much, if its worth the increase in hp like this guy says. https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/attention-8v-owners.164389/
     

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    Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
  13. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Found maf error intermittent short, after deleting it idle dropped down to 800.
    Rev limiter seems funny, i havent found a clip to compare.
    The more i drive it the more i realize what a huge increase in power it has.
    In my situation a 2.0 standard tune chip could be good or it can make it run worse?

    Edited.

    Seems its not maf error keeping idle high, its either vehicle speed or evap valve error. Found today only these two, that dropped idle after deleting. On some cold starts idle is stuck on 1500rpm, sometimes a push to accelerator pedal takes care of that. This could be connected to those errors or tb is gone.
    Evap valve i could fit one or dummy resistor, but can do nothing about vehicle speed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    evap valve can be ignored, speed signal comes from the cluster but you need GTI MFA clocks to get it or on some non-gti clocks you can retrofit the speed sensor

    as you have CE2 fusebox you can run the speed signal wire to W/1 on the fusebox, look for the blue/white wire with blue plug housing
     
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  15. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Gave a call to local mk2 guy, he could have a mfa cluster. The signal is ok for mk3 ecu?
    I could always ghetto style the gearbox sensor mounted instead on the original cluster, if it has the magnetic ring there.
    [:D] And i removed the vss signal wire going to ecu, thought i would not need it.

    As a last resort i can wire tach signal to vss according to https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3877807-ABA-swap-VSS-shut-down-issue-fix-inside

    I bought a new coolant sensor, this one is blue and old one is yellow, i hope this works.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2020
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep the mk2 mfa outputs the right signal for the mk3 ecu :)

    basically if your cluster has the extra bit of ribbon with 3 contacts for the VSS sensor you can install it to your existing speedometer, you just lever out the blank plastic from the back of the speedometer and fit it right in. MFA cluster is nice but it wont work fully unless you left all of the sensor wiring in for it, you'll need a mk1/2 oil temp sensor plus a mk1/2 or g60, early corrado/passat or t4 outside temp sensor. the g60/passat/corrado/t4 sensor plugs right into the mk3 harness plug, the mk1/2 sensor has a different plug
     
  17. davidut5 Forum Member

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    Local guy found one cluster its in miles and bad shape ce1 model. I have to swap the sensor.
     

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  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    that'll do you fine so long as your cluster has the ribbon connection for it. actually even if it hasn't you can fit it and wire it yourself, it just needs ignition live, earth and signal out. I would tap the ignition live to a feed from the voltage regulator on the cluster (or wire your own in, could pinch that off the GTI set as well) same as the GTI ones are as standard
     
  19. davidut5 Forum Member

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    I have fitted the vss sensor and i added the wire from ecu. It works, shows almost 10km less than the gauge. If the car is moving more than 5km/h idle is at 1000rpm, drops to 800 rpm stopped.
    Vag-com says 0-60mph in 8.7s and 1/4 mile in 16.3s at 82mph
    0-100km in 9,3s and 400m in 16,2s at 132km/h
     

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  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sounds perfect then, the cluster will read slightly over real speed as standard
     

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