Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Cressa, Aug 14, 2021.
Finally had time to put one on. Just needs tightening up. Thanks for all the input.
A little free time today so I swapped the rear suspension which I have had waiting for months. Seems a shame to put this on when I intend on taking off the rear axle for powder coating, but I needed the space inside a d to move the car.
The old ones had no life left in the strut or the bumpstops, but job done
I also took the rear door cards off to help narrow down the water sneaking in. Check out the picture as it answers my problem.
My attention is now on the O/S front wing removal so that any areas can be de-rusted, treated and painted b4 I change that shock absorber
At present the car is open to the elements which is slowing my progress, so I may have to build a temporary tent over her
I have thought it may be a good idea to PVA the back of the door cards, just for future protection.
Goy to sort these damned leaks..
Always nice to replace something for a shiny version. Not oem quality but acceptable.
Managed to give the inside to 3 of the door cards a coating of pva just to give them some waterproofing capability. Although I hope that when i have made new door membranes this wont be needed.
Definitely a cheap method of protection and I may even give them another coat as I have plenty
Found this, which is probably another reason for the water ingress
I've only ever pulled a door card off a mk2 once, and found untouched membranes! It almost broke my heart to tear them......
Managed to find time to sort the drivers side inner wing. Amazed at how good the bottom of the A post is after 35 years.
All surface rust, so on with the treatment, paint and stone chip
Had some time today so got on with removing the sound deadening on the drivers floor panel so that I could get at the rust. Not the nicest of jobs but necessary.
Got the seam sealer out as I needed to seal the top of the suspension mount after digging out the old and sorting the rust. Happy with the result so that can have a coat of paint on top. Must do the other side now.
I have again used the seam sealer to cover the areas of VW stonechipping that had rust underneath at the inner wing. Not pretty but a bloody good hard coating that is paintable.
I noticed vw heritage had a genuine tailgate lock button and mine was looking grey. As it was all off the car it was still an hours job for me to clean it all up and swap it around.
In the cost cutting VW wisdom the old one is actually a good lump of metal, where as this new one is plastic. But it looks better so that will have to do.
I also managed to etch primer the floor and start to get a coat of white on it.
Boot lock was a nightmare on the green one, the mechanism was different and something didn't work when fitted, can't remember exactly as I think I've blanked it from my mind, but ended up hybrid after a few hours.
Floor pan looks great.
This one is lacking central locking so pretty basic. Was a nightmare with a c-clip but one less thing to worry about.
Thanks for the floorplan comment. I am happy with it, even though I put a blow heater on and it pushed the dust around!!
Ah, the non slip additive, dust in the paint. Helps keep the carpets in place. At least didn't have a cat walk over it like when I sprayed my mini van.
Green golf is a cl so no central locking, may have been as its an earlier one although the lock didn't specify, got there eventually.
Sorry to hijack this thread but I've a quick question in relation to Mk2 locks. I picked up a genuine NOS full lock and key set for a Mk2 (doors, ignition and boot). My Mk2 has central locking. The intention is to pull the old ones out and swop in the new locks (I know there's a bit of drilling required for the ignition) but for the 2 doors and the boot - how difficult is it to replace them. I think I recall seeing somewhere that central locking units can be a PITA but would like to have a few more opinions to confirm/refute that.
@costel1969 my central locking locks were the same as the other car, without c/l.
It's the door handle that has the lock in it (as far as I know it's same on all mk2s) which is just 2 screws to remove. But I'm open to be corrected, often misguided
Boot with c/l I haven't played with, so far fingers crossed.
I did all of mine on my Corrado that has C/L. Wasn't difficult to remove or swap the cylinders out. The ignition switch is always a pig.
I do have some teeny tiny new lock springs if you need them
Cheers for that chaps - from what I see everything is ready, the new keys and locks are already cut/keyed so everything is getting removed and being replaced with ready to go holders (trim?) locks and keys. I've definitely read about removing the tumblers and installing new one's but from what I see I don't have to do that at all (which is great - if it's true)
the metal boot buttons are actually pretty rare so you should get decent money selling it on, might be able to have it stripped and coated like new again?
I forgot to check if the boot one is metal/plastic - this appears to be a pretty old VAG replacement kit but still no guarantee it's metal I suppose, either way it's going in and the old one is coming out - I won't sell it RJ (not yet anyways) - I intend to hold one mega-sale at some stage in the future and preferably sell everything in one lot. I'll be hoping my fellow countryman @Tristan will be a very interested party (or will know other interested parties). I have a lot of gear to be honest and a lot of it is Genuine/OEM. (new and second-hand)
missed the lock question, doors are esy 1 screw and they come apart easy peasy. glovebox lock is a plastic clip you slide out then it falls off the front, if you dont have a lock in your kit could de-lock passenger door and use the tumblers to sort the glovebox.
boot lock main thing is make sure its the correct type to match as CL and non-CL are different barrels. the lock fingers will swap over though. same deal on boot button lock barrel its pretty easy for non-cl its a circlip you slide out, for CL its a screw. for the CL if its proper period one has a tiny ball bearing and spring for the 3 detent positions, later made locks are missing this.
if its the right type though for the complete button its easy peasy though as you know just unclip from the rear and swap. personally I'd try to keep the metal button as its a nice period piece to match the car
ignition lock fit the key then drill a 3mm hole like so, poke something in the hole to release the retaining clip and pull it out:
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