I`m planning on fitting Megasquirt to my MK2 ABF.. Progress in this thread.

Well, after the ISSUES I`ve had with my K-Jet, I`m seriously considering going Megasquirt on my car.

I`ve read Martyn`s FAQ, Smudge`s guide, Toyotecs thread and think I`m finally getting a handle on what I need to do. Spoke to Steve R on the phone last night for some more help.

My plan is to buy the Megasquirt II V3 kit, I`ll definately be adding the DLP-TXRX Internal USB adapter and as it`s my first MS project, I`ll be getting the Stimulator board for testing as I build.

I`ve read a lot so far and am starting to understand how I THINK it will all go together.

I`m going to retain my current inlet manifold and throttle body. I`m hoping to get Brooksters unwanted BBM inlet rail and injectors. I`m hoping to fab something to fit a TPS onto the existing TB, as shown in smudges thread.

I have a wideband AFR meter I fitted the other week, so I`ll be using that output to send data to the MS as well as the gauge I have in the dash now. I`m assuming (maybe incorrectly?) that it will help initial setup and tuning ?

Plan is to use the ABF internal trigger wheel (60-2), there was already a sensor on the block so I`m hoping this will be suitable (I still need to understand what that is used for). I`m unclear on what Ignition / coil setup to go for, more understanding required there but I think I need to mod the ECU and use a wasted spark coilpack ?

So far, thats about it, I`m sure there are lots of things I haven`t considered yet but rather than lose this in my car build thread, I`ll keep this one updated with my progress of how I went through the swap from K-Jet to MS on a budget.

Any suggestions / comments are very welcome, I`m a total novice on this and am willing to listen and learn

 

Hi Nige,

Why not use all of the ABF gear ? i.e inlet manifold, fuel rail, throttle body with TPS, water temp sensor etc etc, up the fuel pressure a bit.hopefully then the megasuirt is fairly plug and tune. I put DTA on stock ABF hardware some time ago and it worked really well, bags of torque!!! The ABF manifold flows better than a 50mm KR one to, but it does have its limits.

G

 

^^ What he said ^^

Have you still got the ABF bits? I know a man who has a load of ABF ancillaries available

I think it depends which version of MS you're buying, but I believe (from what I've read) that it's possible to link the wideband kit to the ECU, to keep it in tune. There is a self tune option in some versions as well, but I've no idea how well it works.

 

Which gauge have you got? You are correct in assuming that it will help with tuning. It will also give more power and more economy than a narrow-band, although that depends on how you configure it and the MS.

You could fit it to the car now to help with analysing the k-jet problems.

 

I`ve got the AEM kit. If you click on the `issues` link above i discuss it in there and how it helped me wit the KJet

oooh, I can use the ABF stuff? I didn`t know that !!

I have the ABF inlet and injector rail from the donor engine, I just assumed the inlet manifold wasn`t as good as my 50mm one so I`d discounted it.

If I can use that instead, it makes a big different. TPS is already fitted and injector rail will just fit. I`m liking that idea a lot

Mike, there is an `autotune` feature on the MS that will allow my AFR input to help with initial setting up and save a lot of time, but from reading Toyotecs posts, he doesn`t recommend running it as a closed loop system where the AFR controls the MS, but I think for the first setup, it will help a lot.

 

Hi Nige,

I didn't realise you still had all the ABF gear when we spoke. It would be easier and cheaper to use that, you will need to keep an eye on the duty cycle of the ABF injectors as they will be close to their limit. They are an odd design but larger ones can be found on other cars if required and made to fit.

You can adapt the MS loom to the large round wiring connector on the ABF to pick up the sensors. (Loom made by Toyotec, fitted to n7ndos old car)







I think you will need to fit the Mk2 dizzy as this is a 4 window type or go to wasted spark coilpack via the crank position sensor.





You can use a Mk3 inlet with cone filter or std air box to hold the Inlet Air Temp Sensor









ABF with Air-con flange from head with blue temp sensor



V3 board modified to run wasted spark and to use USB rather than serial, first pic is USB card wired in for testing, second pic its in its final place mounted under the board.







See n7ndo's build thread on Edition 38 He ran MS with the ABF inlet and fuel rail. I had a go in this and it went very well, good power delivered smoothly.

 

This is why I`m glad I started this thread. I didn`t know I could use the ABF stuff before

Thanks

 

the good thing about mega squirt when i first read up on it couple years ago is there is so many people adding feature, and home tunable if you have issues with something!

 

You can also save a bit of money by goin with MS1 V3,0 with msns extra firmware it can do the same job.

 

i would (and have!) ditch the dizzy and coil, just use the 60-2 trigger wheel, OEM crank sensor and a run wasted spark. Less components to go wrong and a far stronger and more accurate spark. The ECU mods for wasted spark without an external ignition amp are common - i bought my ecu built so don't know the details. My coil pack came from a 106/saxo - fits the OE HT leads and there are loads in the scrappys. All the rest of the sensors etc are standard ABF. I have MS1-extra V3, i can see no big reason why ms2 is beneficial for this set up.

The wideband will help massively, don't use autotune, just log it and run megalogviewer and the AFR/map analyser afterwards. I am hooking up a palm tungsten (16 off ebay) to log to so i don't have to take the laptop everywhere - vista blue screens a lot when logging anyway.

This will get you fuelling about right, but as with any engine, there is no substitute for a rolling road set-up to get spark and fuelling right for max power.

I havn't got the ISV working yet (not tried too hard) and i am not far into mapping yet. I alsp just got a knocksense unit to experiment with. Currently it won't idle without throttle till about 60 degrees water temp and low speed low throttle driveability needs work.

You will make gains compared with K-jet - but it will be more time and effort to a) install it all and b) get the mapping perfect.

Mike

 

Just done a MK1 ( very fast!) and have an ECU for a MK3 on wasted spark. All use std ABF engine sensors and actuators. You only should run a MS11 if you got a stepper motor for idle else just use MS1. With wasted the only extra thing that has to be added that is not stock is a 4 pole coil pack. Some of the pictures steve r added are from the Ed38 when the ABF on MS was done on eatonMK2 former car. steve r also runs wasted on his track car.

 

It can once the UHEGO is feeding back, but you got to already establish these AFR targets are actually best torque settings. And you would still have spark to calibrate. Better to tune for MAX torque per speed/load site in WOT and refine for drivablity.

 

You can if you have the bits. But between 0-7500rpm I have found no real benefit performance wise. More of a cost thing.

 

dubbin it

quality thread

 

Eddie,

Reading that, are you basically saying MS1 is good enough for what I want ? I want to leave my options open to possibly add ITB`s at some future date, so I don`t want to have to change the ECU later, I`d rather get the right one now.

I`ll be using the ABF Crank sensor, inlet manifold, injectors, Pressure Reg, Throttle body and TPS, so would all I need be a 4 coil pack for the wasted spark?

I`ll cross the wiring / board mods when I get to it, initially, I want to get my head round what I neead to do

Nige.

 

Didn't realise you had the ABF Inlet manifold etc.

Here's a good thread with information.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1377841

 

MS1 will be with the squirt n spark Extra software will be more than enough for your engine. My car runs great on MS1 and i have no plans to go to MS2.

No need for the extra expense of MS2, but if you do want to use it in the future its just a daughter board that plugs into the main board in place of the MS1 chip.

If you have all the ABF setup then, should you decide to go wasted spark you will just need a coilpack, connector plug and a blanking plate for the dizzy. Or you can run your KR dizzy controlled by the MS to keep costs down.

 

Just what Steve said.

 

Ah, Steve, I thought you said you had MS1 at first, then swapped to MS2 later. Thats why I was going to do MS2,.

MS1 it is. The option of removing the distributor appeals to me, the simpler I can get it the better...

I`ll go read up on MS1 instead of MS2 then

 

I originally had a V2.2 board (green) and changed to a V3 (blue) when i went from fuel only to fuel & wasted spark, but stuck with MS1 chip. It can get quite confusing