I`m planning on fitting Megasquirt to my MK2 ABF.. Progress in this thread.

It falls to bit and destroys your engine seems to be the general consensus!

 

The main reason i didn't fit one to my Eurospec crank which will be reving to 8200k with these cams and lifters.

 

What?? Who said that.

 

whatever the std limit is, its fine. I rev mine a lot, spends nearly all its life between 4500 and the limiter and it hasn`t fallen apart yet

 

What's this C31 thing? i have it installed on mine. looks like i have a 0.1uF, read something about changing it to a 0.01uF??

Taken from the manual.

 

Only seems to be a problem on very high revving engines i.e. 8k+rpm etc

Gurds

 

Gurds

 

I'm really looking forward to the photo-storybook when you start setting it up!

 

er, I dunno, I`m just going by what Eddie told me

In my kit, C31 is 0.001F

 

Just for the sake of completeness, here`s a simple schematic of the sensors / injectors that will feed / be fed by the MS (Megasquirt) ECU. I won`t be using the Idle valve part of the diagram (pin 30). I will be using the 60-2 hall pickup from the crank toothed wheel operating an EDIS coilpack and will be blanking off the standard distributor to try and keep it as simple as possible and moving parts to a minimum.





The kit is assembled using the following assembly instructions.
Assembly Instructions

 

Injectors can be supplied of the existing feed from the fuse box. Also diagram doesn't show reference supply for the Hall sensor. Iv'e connected mine to pin 28.

 

Ah, so the Hall Sensor on the ABF is a 3-wire one ? You see, I`m learning something every day

 

Alot of the diagrams show two wires. Had me confused.

 

Here goes...., What I hope to be a very detailed build and install

Using the following Assembly Instructions.

Step 1c.
Use an Ohmmeter (digital multi-meter set on resistance) to check the resistance between the three voltage regulator holes. The voltage regulator is U5, near the DB9 connector in the top left side of the board (on the heat sink). The resistance between any two of these three holes should be infinite.


Step 1d.
Trial fit your PCB in the enclosure before soldering anything to it.


Step 1e.
Prepare the heat sink. (This comes with the kit from Glensgarage.)

Step 2.
Now we will install the two 'external' connectors, the DB9 and DB37.


Soldering using 0.6mm Solder.


The completed D9 Pin.


The 40-pin DIP socket.


4. Next, you are going to install the components that make up the power supply, and then verify operation. The first part to install is the 'Perry' Metal Oxide Varistor MOV1


Trim the excess from the back of the circuit board.


5. Install the capacitor C15 (102 marking)


Installed C15


6. Install and solder C16, 22 microFarads (F), 226 marking - make sure polarity is observed. It has a small “+” near the positive lead. The longer lead is also always the positive lead.

Looking at the component closely, you can see the labelling +++


On the Circuit board, the hole for the + leg is shown by a square on the layout (shown by the pencil)


C16 Component installed.


7. Install and solder C17 - make sure polarity is observed.


8. Install and solder C18


9. Install and solder C19


10. Install and solder C23


11. Install and solder C22


12. Install and solder D9 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board. To do this, make sure the end of the diode with the band on it goes to the end of the silkscreen (at D9) that has the band nearest it.


13. Install and solder D10 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board.


14. Install and solder diode D11 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board.


15. Install and solder D12 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as shown on the printed circuit board


16. Install and solder diode D13 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per the board.


17. Install and solder diode D19 - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per the board


18. Install and solder L1 {M8388-ND, inductor, 1H, small coil of wire with leads}. Space the inductor about 1/8” (3mm) off the PCB to avoid shorts on the traces underneath.




To Be Continued..

 

Great build up pics


the difference in the capacitors is nothing more as a signal filtering section of circuit

as for the hall sensors / crank sensors differ depending on the type of the sensor

a hall sensor is more of a on/off switch signalling the coils in stock systems
the crank is similar altering the frequency with the high/lows

this is partly why crank sensors have a 3 wire config to create the magnetic field, normally giving out a 12V- pulse

 

Gonna be lots of pics in this one. A photographic version of the megamanual.

 

Sorry

I can just skip the photos if you think it best ? It`ll obviously be easier for me, but I thought photos of every stage may help ?

 

It's your thread, weren't complaining . It'll be good for people who are going to attempt to build one. Also may help when it comes to making choices for tach inputs etc when using the same engine. I had to do alot of searching when doing mine.
It may not be right yet.

 

I`m not sure how I`m doing that on mine yet either

 

I will cover this in a newly started "How to" thread.

Just come from out so tired now so will update tomorrow.