hes the guy who did the 24v v6 4x4 caddy, you've commented on the thread so Iv guess you've seen it. Some people on this forum dont like the whole cut and weld thing and would rather imagine that if they where doing it they would spend thousands on custom machined parts when really they sit at home writing negative comments on peoples threads, just ignore them,lol. Dont get me wrong though there is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and phatvr6 and nutter4x4 both have experience in custom 4x4 dubs so worth taking note on there tips.
o yer lol i know what your on bout now would love to have a go in that caddy looks a lot of fun including in the snow lol
Not to go off topic on Joes thread, but the reason people didn't like Powernuts build was the bodge/unsafe mods he was doing. Brakes failing whilst doing 150mph because to much material had been removed from the cailpers just to make them fit.....
Looks like this build is being done properly though? Looks great so far, not at all bodged. Assuming you will be rust proofing and powdercoating everything properly for final assembly?
yes i will be just want to get it going first to see if every think work how it should you dont want to get it painted then have to hack all apart lol
got the stainless for the welder to day so got on will the exhaust just a pic of one of my welds, i be honest there not all as good as that one tho lol
Hi Joes, hat's off to you for building something so ambitious at such a young age! From seeing your workshop & tools etc I get the feeling your dad's probably quite an interesting chap..? I've got some questions/thoughts for you: 1. Have you considered making up a short-runner inlet manifold for the engine? This would create enough room to allow you to raise the engine & minimise the likelihood of smashing the sump on the first pebble you drive over. Might even have room for a sump guard in there too . Means buggering about with the trans tunnel & driveshafts etc, but you won't kill your engine (those cast sumpers are uber fragile!!). Other option is to make a fairly heavy gauge steel/stainless/Ti sump-pan. 2. I've got a UR quattro, & the prop shaft is 2 piece with CV joints at either end & UJs in the middle. To save buggering about chopping up what you've got etc I recommend sourcing a complete prop from any type 85/91 quattro, shortening it & making a couple of adapters for the transfer box o/p shaft & rear diff i/p shaft. 3. It looks like your exhaust is going to either scrape along the floor, or be twatted by the wishbone where it goes underneath the rear suspension. If I were in your position, I would either: a) Chop a channel in the boot floor, running the pipework over the driveshaft & making up a sheetmetal cowl/tunnel to seal up the cabin again. b) Cut out the passenger rear footwell, mount the exhaust box in the space & run a side-exit exhaust dumping just infront of the rear wheel. Box-in cabin with sheetmetal. c) Run a side-exit exhaust straight off the down-pipe, dumping just behind the front wheel.
thanks yer im dad has done some interesting things in his time lol 1. reason for doin the engine that low was because of the prop goin down the tunnel cannot go much higher without manufacturing a new tunnel looking back at it should of done that bit late now though and if you stay on flat land i think youll get away with it the only time i might have problems is when i go on uneven land but this isnt my everyday car anyway this is only my summer drive i know for the 20v people sell smaller sumps can you get ones for the r32 or could you manufactur one or is this not a good idea??? 2. yer good idea might have to consider that but the reason i chose the one ive got is it would take out any inlignment problems 3. i did cut out the tunnel wider for the exhaust so the propshaft is a lower point than the exhaust is. the rear wishbone arm should clear the exhaust as i manufactured the exhaust with the wishbone arm right down and im solidily mounting it so does not look as if it sticks down that far and yes i have seen people do it other ways like youve just said but just wanted to keep the original look from the back thanks for your ideas always good to hear other peoples opinions and ideas
hey bud u can use audi tt mk1 3.2 sumps if i remember right, u would also need the oil pump and pick up pipe aswell speak to veedubnutz on rubbaduz as he done this conversion when he was build his 2 mo corrado
I think its the Mk5 R32 sump thats needed which is possibly the same as the TT V6. As said oil pump and pick up needed. They are about 1 - 1.5in shallower IIRC. Need to get one as well.
hi just a bit of a update been working on the battery box. as this space is not being used i thought i make some use for it
hi joe great build hope everything turns out well for you ,,, my driveshafts hold fine too , ps , if uve mig welded the solid shafts , on the rear just be carefull as mig is mild steel , (stick weld/arc weld is good) regards my brakes guys they are now replaced will willwood 4 pots ,,, keep up the great work joe
Mild steel is fine, as long as there is some rust protection in place. MIG welding is a form of GMAW (gas metal arc welding). MIG stands for metal inert gas, not the type of metal. You can mig weld with stainless too. Dont see the point valid?
All it takes is one bump. Given the state of the roads pretty much everywhere I'd say it's just a matter of time 'til it happens. Just think how gutted you'd be when you have to get towed home & replace the entire engine! It's perfectly acceptable to make up your own sump-pan. The main things you need to think about are capacity & oil pickup-to-sump clearance. From memory it should be about 2-3mm. Whilst you're at it you could include some gate-type baffles to prevent starvation under heavy cornering. The yanks make a lot of their sumps out of sheetmetal, with Milodon being probably the biggest. Here's some background info from their website: http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-questions.asp By solidly mounting each end of the prop you've actually introduced an alignment/loading issue. If you didn't have the centre section of the prop bolted in, (i.e. CV joint ends of the fwd & aft props) ANY movement in the engine/gearbox/rear diff would result in a significant displacement of the cv joint end. Since you've axially constrained the non-cv ends, the fwd & aft props will effectively be acting as lever-arms pivoting about the CV joints. As a result, enormous torsional loadings will be acting on the (non-self aligning) bearings of the transfer box o/p flange & rear diff i/p flange. This will destroy them in a very short time. You could minimise this effect by completely solid-mounting the engine & rear diff, but you'll still kill those bearings from misalignment caused by chassis flex. This is all assuming you get all three of the props aligned 100% perfectly in the first place of course, & there are no weird driveline harmonics. Any updates on progress?
decided to a bit on the rear brakelines as the vehicle is still upside down doing everything in braded hoes/aerocrip just a few pics of the back
