Tomos Turbo Project

yeah its me ive been on here 4 ages now! yeah its re mapped the ecu was already done when i got it and when i had the immo taken out of it i got the guy to chek and it was done by superchips a couple of years ago! gotta admit shes fun to drive.

 

cool sounds good, let me drive it lol !! , after speaking to people, im thinking bout ditching the in car boost controller { bleed valve } and might look into a electronic one, but mate said , what is the max psi on the actuator, i think its 12psi, but as im sticking to 7 psi, i dont think i would need a boost controller ? any info on this peeps would be greatfull !

 

hi dude, take a look at the pic i posted in this thread for your boost valve plumbing

 

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MS v3, has arrived, thanks to toyotec for building this kit, and doing the nessercery soldering mods. It has isv built in there , if i need to add isv, hopfully it will idle ok with out it, just gotta get my head round the wiring , but toyo is on hand via phone lol

 

That'll keep you busy for a while.... I don't use an ISV on mine but it would be useful. I'd be interested to see Toyo's circuit for it.

 

me to i dont have a isv cold start isbt to bad i guess but could be better

 

mmm, im not sure what that circuit would look like at all, il took off the cover plate, and was like er..... loads of resistors ect ,lol

have seperated the loom into seperate runs at the mo, theres some bundles of loom , { sp1234 } ect, as extra outputs to add ?? , ive cable tied all the extra add on to one side, for the min i dont think il be using that , so just broke down { without cuttin of coarse } the main wires to plug in.

Theres a wire according to RS Auto sport,coloured wiring diagram

S5 pin 36 .


on the wiring diagram, its a blue wire, with a direction to the ignition module/coil ?

but on the RS Autosports harness kit contents, its says,

S5 : 120" -----blue wire-----pin 36 on DB37 -------, pin 36-not used,but can be for extra inputs outputs ?

so do i wire that to the coil or not, just leave it ?

 

been digging into the mega squirt wiring today, all was going well untill i lost one of my fourth injector connector pieces. Brand new from vechicle wiring products, feck knows where that has gone, but stopped in finishing the injector loom,

the second loom that came with the ms kit is pretty much redundent , i think that loom is to be used with a relay board. and if your wiring all the fuel pump, igniton system, but as vw golf has got a pump and ignition system , you dont need that wiring , so i decided to rob a battery wire from the second loom and use that as a injector 12v + feed , the wire then splits off to each injector bank,




i found a good source of switched ignition live on single pin connectors "G" , ive used 2 connector spades there for the injectors and ms 12v feed.



the grounds from MS { 5 short black } have been solderd to one large black ground, then grounded to the battery terminal, the battery aids as supressor according to MS so hopefully that should reduce un-wanted noise signals.

fitted inline fuses on each injector bank plus inline fuse on ms 12v feed.




this is the split from the single injector feed from the fuse box , 14 gauge wire so i thought that would be good as its supplying 4 injectors, that are both split , fused each in bank with 5 amp fuses [ according to rs auto wiring }



injector loom,

 

been digging into the mega squirt wiring today, all was going well untill i lost one of my fourth injector connector pieces. Brand new from vechicle wiring products, feck knows where that has gone, but stopped in finishing the injector loom,

the second loom that came with the ms kit is pretty much redundent , i think that loom is to be used with a relay board. and if your wiring all the fuel pump, igniton system, but as vw golf has got a pump and ignition system , you dont need that wiring , so i decided to rob a battery wire from the second loom and use that as a injector 12v + feed , the wire then splits off to each injector bank,




i found a good source of switched ignition live on single pin connectors "G" , ive used 2 connector spades there for the injectors and ms 12v feed.



the grounds from MS { 5 short black } have been solderd to one large black ground, then grounded to the battery terminal, the battery aids as supressor according to MS so hopefully that should reduce un-wanted noise signals.

fitted inline fuses on each injector bank plus inline fuse on ms 12v feed.




this is the split from the single injector feed from the fuse box , 14 gauge wire so i thought that would be good as its supplying 4 injectors, that are both split , fused each in bank with 5 amp fuses [ according to rs auto wiring }



injector loom,



gonna have a go at wiring some more sensers and hall senser tomorow

 

Carried on with the wiring this weekend, im not 100 % ive done it right lol, ive wired in the fuel pump from ms to connector "d" pin 13, { yellow/red }, pump primes on the key so im guessing thats ok.

ive wired the S5 wire from ms to igniter on pin 6 { blue/brown } altho toyotecs ignitor is pin 6 green/black . my pin 6 is blue/brown. i have a green wire but thats on pin 1. Looking onto the wiring diagram of haynes , pin 1 from the ignitor goes to the coil, pin 6 goes to the KR ecu. So im little confused on which pin to wire and how comes toyotecs has different wiring colours to mine even tho his is an E reg and mines an F, [ both CE1 Fuseboxes } that dont make sense ha ha, , my gut feeling is to wire the green [ pin 1} to S5 on MS .

with this out of the way i was hoping to start up, managed to secure the boost pipes, get round the issue with the battery and boost piep situation there, ive used the magic flexi air ducting silicone pipe fro now,



attached the top half of my downpipe to the turbo, will need to make up the lower half with some crazy bends to match to the exsisting exhaust system,



all ready to fire up,




altho its not happening, ive got now crank , the starter is not operating, just turn the key and dead, full pump is priming as normal.

any ideas folks ?

should the engine crank even if mega squirt wasnt installed, ie im still using the original vw igniter and coil setup, ?

 

take a wire from the 12v on the battery to the spade terminal on the starter with ignition on and see if it cranks over

 

that flexi orange pipe is'nt rated for holding boost is it?

 

i bloddy hope not lol

 

its a temp fix , untill i get some alloy hose made up, thought it will do just for tick over really, .

so disconnect the red spade starter motor cable? i have 2 black spades and a center ringed terminal as well, and hook up to battery, , do i switch igntion on b4 i do that or after ?

 

id start it without that pipe tbh just incase it sucks it through the turbo lol

 

i think i had something simular as standard on the tt

 

Your starter prob is not related to MS, basically you have a thick red wire from the battery and a small wire from the ign switch. Do the ign lights on the dash work? If so you probably have an issue with the small wire or the starter is dead. To test the starter first check you are getting 12v down the thick wire, use a piece of wire and touch it to the thick red and thin wire on the starter. If it doesn't crank the starter is faulty.

 

Do listen to Bill on that!! Not good!

Unless you have connected the MS to a starter circuit or disconnected part of it then this circuit of the MS controller should have nothing to do it. retrace you steps post MS installation.
Do the starter test as already suggested.

Starter solenoid leads is a 2.0mm red/black lead. Comes from ignition barrel. Do check that that terminal 30 on battery ( solid red 2.5mm lead) is well secured. Also the main starter lead is well secured to the M6 thread by the 13AFnut. There is sometimes a terminating junction on this lead that can give a false sense of connection.

 

cheers guys will back track over the sterter, im also now thinking, that when i actually set fire to that thick lead from the battery to starter i might of fried the starter solinoid ? as that cable was red hot ,

 

shall also plug the clocks back in see if im getting power down there, if so then that should rule out that i havnt fried that section of wiring