B looks like the signal from the alternator. Yes, clutch should have a washer/Grommet. Vacuum TO the servo, should go to a one way check valve. Not a banjo, just a hose tail. Looks like a breather hose point? From the head possibly?
Thanks Tristan, I mean't to the servo, I knew that, honest Yes, I think the hose tail went to the charcoal cannister, I shall cap it off. Just got to find a clutch grommetty thing.
Is the B connection the alternator charge light? Did you have the clutch cable still off the mk3 or original mk2 one, can't remember as mine was auto and its tipping it down to go out to check at mo. Not sure on vac/evap stuff, but the plenum one does that have non return valve to servo? Had to blank one on my swap.
1. no need for driveshaft gaskets, I've never run them or even seen any on the cars I worked on 2. keep all the breathers as factory, there should be a cover on top. 3. need circlip as you say 4. the ecu goes underneath the bracket, make sure the wiper linkage will clear it mounted up top ike that, plus you should have a plastic cover over the top 5. alternator wiring ok 6. yes that black wire should work, probe it for ignition live. also the immobiliser box should click with ignition 7. blue wire on mk2 loom is old alternator charge wire. now spare as using the mk3 one on engine loom 8. yes missing the rubber mount on gearbox, plus the rubber for clutch arm and the fitting kit to attach https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/clutch-cable-rubber-guide--washer-171721307--171721308-4171-p.asp https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/clutch-cable-fitting-kit-171798105-4707-p.asp 9. yes brake servo hose, it should have a non-return valve on it somewhere 10. carbon canister, block it
Thanks John, sadly we are no further forward with the car running. It starts but wont run. Should the wires connected to the jumper block be connected to anything else, ie should the jumper block be connected to anything? What other wires should be in the VAGcom port? We just have the live and earth wires to the cigarette lighter and the wire to the jumper block. We've tested the permanent live and the ignition live and they work fine. The grey and white wire is connected to the ECU. Should the yellow and grey wires from the VAGcom port be connected to something? What are we missing?
ecu grey/white -> immobiliser immobiliser black -> ignition live, ring terminal earth vagcom port red/white -> live, brown -> earth, grey/white -> immobiliser, yellow ignore get usb vagcom cable, less than 10 quid on ebay. use freeware version of vcds-lite. plug vagcom in, check ecu fault codes. if its the immobiliser it will say, then you scan immobiliser box and it'll tell you why
Well, as with quite a few other people it seems, I am not sure about my clutch connections. I thought I was supposed to use the thin rubber washer below the clutch are but I could not get enough adjustment so I have used the thick washer. Thin in picture below. Also the slide clip with the thin rubber washer would not fit over the cable. Just poor quality I think. Also, to me, the me the thread does not seem long enough? It it normal? When adjusting the 10mm gap below the plastic disc is that between the plastic disc and the bracket or between the rubber grommet and the bracket? The pedal end of the clutch has a smaller hole than the Mk2 1.3 cable and as such it won't fit over the lower hook, just the top one. Is this right? And her (hopefully) is a video of the slack and should it wobble about this much?
Fit the big rubber bung to the gearbox first. Yes the cable goes into the other hook on the pedal. Lift the clutch arm, it should get to around 9 o'clock. Set cable so that when you grab cable and lift it up at the box end you have about 10mm of free play
Thanks John. The hook physically won't go on the lower hook as the hole in the plastic part isn't big enough to go over the upper hook as well? I get the 10mm of free play but is that between the plastic disc and the gearbox bracket or the underside of the rubber bung and the gearbox bracket?
I meant it goes in the other hook compared to the 1.3 cable Bung gets pushed into the hole and clips in place, then shouldn't move. Then you grab cable and pull it upwards, you want 10mm of free play to start. Can adjust a bit either way to suit your taste just don't have it too tight else clutch will drag
Right then, today we started by putting as much of the car back together as we could. Front valance, lower valance, new lower grille and new main grille which we had prepared earlier. Of course that doesn't as fit as well as it could being an aftermarket piece. Then gear stick and linkages. Of course I had to drop the exhaust and then take the linkage mount off the rack to get it all in The biggest issue here, and one that is a bit of a concern, is that the Mk3 catalytic converter is resting up against the bottom of the gearstick. I'm guessing this is because the Mk3 tunnel is taller allowing extra space underneath for the cat. Clearly hot exhaust against plastic parts is not going to go well. To resolve this we will have to put a de-cat pipe on asap. Then we 3D printed a gear stick alignment tool from a program on "Thingverse". What a great site that is. It worked, pretty much straight off the bat All gears selectable and easy to engage. While we were doing this the Postie arrived - with - you guessed it, the ECU back from VAGtronics. Tore the packaging open and plugged it in. Took the two grey wires from the immo box and joined them together as per the instructions from VAGtronics. Then, with hearts in mouths, turned the key and........ off it went, first time . I even did a little dance a la Joey Tribbiani Put the fuse box back (sort of), tidied up and drove to the tyre shop for wheel alignment. Arrived there with copious amounts of smoke burning off the engine, mostly the exhaust manifold. Not surprising really considering the amount of degreaser ralph used to clean everything. Then back home via a very expensive petrol station. Car sounds great and is clearly going to be a much better car to drive but that will have to wait until the exhaust issue is resolved. The front end has dropped down to a respectable ride height too Still lots of tidying and odd jobs to do, loom to finish wrapping and making look pretty. Still, very very pleased.
Brilliant work boys, glad immo issue has been resolved and it's a turnkey car now. Decat is the way to go then for clearance, and hopefully the smoke will subside quickly, usually oily hands on stuff I've swapped causes it on mine. Seen a few bits on that thingiverse site, looks interesting. I had a lock plate should have let you borrow it last time you were up. Guess you need a mk3 anniversary gearknob now.
Exhaust woes. Result of cat pressing on gearstick, done in only about 4 miles. The gearchange is still absolutely fine though with no apparent ill effects. Will leave that as is for now. So as in my other thread a decat pipe has not been available for love nor money and with number 1 son chomping at the bit I had to get creative. Whole new cat from Cats2U delivered next day. Did this. Then this with the original pipe from the Mk3. Finally the right hand end had to be packed out and slots cut for compression but its on and not melting the gear stick base. Could still do with a heat shield but that can be figured out later. Car has a very nice burble and is quite quiet at normal speeds. It roars under load and has a nice bit of pops and bangs on the downshift. Other things need to be investigated. A strange whine most of the time, almost like a supercharger. It may be the air intake. Pulley belt too tight? A bit of a fuelly smell, it may be running a bit rich. A lot of travel in the brake pedal. They work fine when you get to the braking point but the travel is weird. Is the pedal adjustable? Once it's got a few miles under it's belt and the burning smell from new exhaust, oil, grease and cleaning fluids is gone then I'm sure it will all work out.
Good fix there, can you get a clamp that reduces, sure I saw them when looking at exhaust parts for the polo, not huge drops either. Fuel smell isn't to do with evap system possibly? Or the breather at the filler neck if swapped to mk2 grommet on mk3 tank, or the seal around pump? Whine could be a belt, on my 1.8t I had a split in the breather hose that whistled, replaced it and ran better too, maybe that could affect your mixture? And coincidentally I had longer travel in pedal following swap, but I've put that down to needing another bleed with brand new fluid throughout. Did you disconnect the servo from pedal? Is there a non return valve in the vac line, missed it on mine first fit as the vac pipe fitted perfectly, retrofitted after first drive.