Mk3 8v into Mk2 1.3

Discussion in '8-valve' started by PhilRyder, Jul 31, 2021.

  1. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    No gaskets. I did think about this and I have had a look but they don't seem to be very readily available? There is a lip so hopefully it will be OK, at least until the grease starts to go runny.
    Front mount was spot on. I used the Mk2 one you gave me :thumbup:
    [8-}] Firing up tomorrow - I think not............
     
  2. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    Got some gaskets from vw for mine, but thought were dear for a piece of cork. Sealant was used on some instead I believe, but others I've taken apart had neither.
    Glad the mount worked.
     
  3. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    This is presumably the crank case and cam cover vent. What is the best way to ditch it/route it more nicely? IMG_20211001_095802921.jpg
     
  4. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    Also!
    We have these.
    IMG_20211001_105554545.jpg
    I thought that the circlip went in the small groove and then the red gear slid over and clicked in place? With the circlip in place the gear will not slide over.
    Help please.
     
  5. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    So ignore the above post. I spoke to Heritage Parts (their website is truly awful) and they are sending out the correct circlip.

    Another day of frustration.
    On the upside we got quite a lot of wiring done. The fuel pump loom is in as are all the connections behind the fuse box. Ralph likes his wiring and doesn't seem fazed by the jungle of wires.
    For the ECU we decided on using the Mk2 coil amplifier support but is is too tall. So a bit of cut and shut.
    IMG_20211001_143225801.jpg
    IMG_20211001_143232684.jpg

    Et voila.
    IMG_20211001_145105192.jpg

    We connected up the solenoid and the alternator. Can someone please confirm that the big fat wires are positive and in the correct position before we go firing it up.
    IMG_20211001_133449775.jpg
    IMG_20211001_133513447.jpg

    On the downside we were about to start fitting the exhaust when, while jacking the car up at the front the lower ball joint fell out! At first I couldn't understand why but then it dawned on me that the ball joint supplied with the new wishbones may be too small. So a quick measure and sure enough the new are 17 and ours need to be 19. Took the old ball joints (which are only a few months old) off the old subframe and what I thought would be a quick swap turned into a complete nightmare. Got the there in the end.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2021
    costel1969 and dodgy like this.
  6. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    More good work fellas, lucky had the balljoints around, forgot two sizes.
    On the photo of the starter, are there two battery sized wires going to the solenoid? Thought only one on mine, and the alternator one went straight to battery, may be different on yours, or accidentally put the engine earth on by accident has been long days, I can't remember from stripping that mk3 couple months ago. Apologies if it's both positive, it just looked odd having 2 chunkies on the terminal.
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  7. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    Yes, the cable goes from the battery to the solenoid and then a separate wire from the solenoid to the alternator, that much I'm sure of as they were labelled. Just had a mind fart about whether positive or not.
    Edited my post to put the correct text in the correct place - it has been a looooonnnnngg day [:v:]
     
    dodgy likes this.
  8. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    It was one of those that looked odd to me, but thinking about it that's how BL stuff did it, plus my mk2 was an auto so starter at the back may be why the alternator went direct to the battery.
    On a different note, the dim dip resistor by passenger chassis leg in photo can be left disconnected.
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  9. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    That's interesting, I take it we can remove it then? Why was it there?
     
  10. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    It's to make the headlight glow brighter than the sidelights only, but not full brightness, sort of an early daytime running lights I suppose.
    There are stories of the wiring causing fires where it rubs through on inner wing, or plays up with age.
    Remove the 'packet of polos' and leave it unplugged, then upgrade the headlights with a couple of relays and some decent wiring, you probably have plugs left from the mk3 headlight loom to go to bulbs, it also will take electrical strain off the stalks and main switch.
     
  11. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    795
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    It's also brilliant at causing electrical fires.
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  12. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    Good and very bad today :thumbd:
    Lights capacitor removed.
    Circlip arrived from Heritage and so now speedo is connected.
    All engine wiring connected.
    Immobiliser wiring connected - more on this in a moment.
    Exhaust on.
    Battery installed.

    So with everything connected we thought we would give it a go! No joy. Turns over great but there is no catch. Can't hear a click from the fuel pump relay (no. 12, am I right?). Can't hear fuel pump run.
    Remove fuel pipe from throttle body and turn over - nothing coming out. How long does it take for the fuel to pump through?
    Removed spark plug and turned over - no spark.
    This is leading me to believe there is an issue with the immobiliser? What does the immobiliser immobilise?

    Further, the red and white from the vagcom port, does that need to be permanent live or ignition live?
    Also, there is no power to the interior light, does this mean anything? None of the lights are connected at this point.

    Lot's of help needed please @dodgy @rubjonny @Tristan
     
    Tristan and dodgy like this.
  13. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    Ecu relay possibly, see how it goes.
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  14. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    795
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    I would have thought immobiliser was fuel only.
    It's easy to bridge the relay to get fuel if necessary, but both issues are probably linked. Check for solid supply of power and ground at the ECU?

    Fuel would only take seconds, not minutes, to come BTW.
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  15. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    A chat with the ever, ever so helpful Dodgy and we put in the ECU relay. Still no joy so checked over the immo wiring. It seems that the black wire to the rear of the D plug may not have been connecting properly as well.
    Now we have start but only for a second and then it cuts out. Starts again on the key each time though.
    This seems like an immo problem? The original key is in the reader coil.
    I have a chip from Dave which we could fit?
    Suggestions?
     
    dodgy likes this.
  16. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Likes Received:
    795
    Location:
    Southern IRELAND
    Agreed on it sounding like immo.

    To make it run, can you bridge the fuel pump relay?
     
    PhilRyder likes this.
  17. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    Happy to try that, open to all suggestions.
     
  18. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2016
    Likes Received:
    546
    Glad to help, was a little out of it I apologise.
    Definitely sounds immo based problem.
    Was there another option for immobiliser box, to maybe try first before chopping guts out of it?
     
  19. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    @rubjonny is this the plug that's hanging out of the back of the D plug that the black wire from the immo box?
    IMG_20211003_101026960.jpg
     
  20. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2020
    Likes Received:
    283
    Location:
    Surrey
    More questions.
    I can't remember what this plug marked B was for from the Mk2 loom.
    IMG_20211003_144510479.jpg
    I believe there is supposed to be a rubber grommet/washer under the round clutch brace washer thing. Is this right and if so is it available separately as it didn't come with the new cable.
    IMG_20211003_144419173.jpg
    The black hose with the white stripe coming out of the back of the throttle body is vacuum from the brake servo, correct?
    IMG_20211003_144407357.jpg
    And lastly, for the moment, what should this banjo connector connect to? Was it to the charcoal cannister and if so can it be removed/blanked off?
    IMG_20211003_144326356.jpg
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice