Mk3 8v into Mk2 1.3

Discussion in '8-valve' started by PhilRyder, Jul 31, 2021.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep, but keep hold oif it in case you convert back to mk2 coil at some point, keep the loom from it as well its seperate from main loom just have to pop the latch on the spade in the double coil negative plug
     
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  2. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Today's progress.
    Ralph insisted on spending some time cleaning the engine bay. It is starting to look very nice, all the black gunk that gets spread around at the factory is gone or going :thumbup:
    Meanwhile I cleaned and refitted the engine mounts and tried to refit the Mk2 steering rack. Then I turned the ARB over so it was on the right way round :lol: and lo and behold the rack fitted properly.
    Subframe refitted to the car and new driveshafts too (not fully torqued, just in case). I did this as it seems conventional wisdom is that if you roll the car (albeit about 5 feet in our case) without them in you can damage the bearings.
    IMG_20210928_142722859.jpg

    Then I started to clean and rebuild the gear linkage, got bored with that and, for some unknown reason I started stripping out the Mk2 loom while Ralph did some more cleaning :lol:.
    This progressed into Ralph climbing into the car and getting the fusebox off, releasing plugs F, G1, G2 and S (the wiper motor plug) and we managed to feed them out of the hole where they go through the fire wall. To achieve this, as space is tight behind the brake servo, we had to remove the huge grommet with the tube attached and the plastic pipe within that. Then to get the plugs though that I turned it into a normal grommet, slicing a hole in my finger at the same time :thumbd:
    Anyway, it went better than I expected and now it should "just" be a case of feeding the Mk3 F, G1 and G2 plugs back through the hole and popping them into the fusebox ( @rubjonny your input here would be greatly received).

    Tomorrow we will spend some time wrapping the loom and loosely fitting it........hopefully. The very long list of jobs is diminishing at a steady rate.
     
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  3. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    It's easy to laugh and roll your eyes, but I've been the very same with the ARB! it's not as obvious as one would think, which way round it goes!
     
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  4. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Well done boys, loads done.
    I suppose Ralph had a premonition about an injury and so cleaned the bay to reduce the risk of infections, plus its red so won't show the blood so easily.
    Seriously though, I wish I'd pressure washed mine while engine was out.
    Anti roll bar is better now, exhaust will fit too, was mad busy earlier mate, did mine wrong way up first off, finding a decent photo showing kink direction is difficult, ended up watching a subframe vr6 swap mk3 to mk2 on an Australian video!
    I had to loosen the servo to remove the loom, and it definitely wouldn't have gone back in if it was in place, plus engine was in then too, extremely tight on my cam covers. But on the mk3 I got loom out with it in situ, perhaps as you have the smaller servo it gives more clearance, auto and gti have a bigger one.
    Just to brighten your day, tank swap creeping up on you ;)
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    mk3 looms dont fit too well as standard, you'll need to do some tweaking. Have a read of this, ignore the splicing info obv but look at the detail re routing and mk2 coil conversion:
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/ce1-abf-splicing-of-looms-help.249714/

    in short remove all the tape, bin lighting loom if in there, bin carbon canister plug, swap mk2 wiper loom and bulkhead/scuttle grommets over, cut mk3 coil off and add mk2 spark module wiring back in, fiddle with routing referencing the mk2 loom and tape back up
     
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  6. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks John, I'm slowly getting my head round this.
    Mk3 loom is stripped and all superfluous wiring removed. When you say "don't fit too well" do you mean just routing which needs to be played with?
    Also, what is the benefit of the Mk2 coil etc? Can I just use the mk3 for now?
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes the routing is the main issue after stripping out all the extra crap as it runs round the bay a bit different. the wiper loom is way to short so swap mk2 loom over, ecu sits in middle of scuttle and mk2 on driver side so you jiggle and wiggle so the ecu sits where it should. even after all this, the mk3 loom ends up a little long at the fusebox so I chop it back and re-terminate, but you can just do some creative tucking if you dont have pinjs/tools to hand. though if you do cut back it makes it much easier to thread loom thru bulkhead grommet

    mk2 coil and spark module are more reliable, and way cheaper to source genuine vw/bosch replacement parts if you ever need them. plus with the rev counter if you wire mk2 coil in it works as standard, with mk3 coil have to open a flap on the side and add your tacho feed to the negative terminal inside. all in all, best to go mk2 imo
     
  8. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Bit of a rubbish day today. I was totally exhausted and really couldn't get into anything properly this morning. Some good advice from @dodgy , a cup of coffee and a think.
    IMG_20210929_131146191.jpg
    Goodness me I'm a good looking guy..................:lol:
    However, we did achieve some things.
    Finished rebuilding the gear stick and linkage, removed the Mk2 fuel tank, stripped and painted the fuel tank straps. I did find this which is a bit disappointing.
    IMG_20210929_132045952.jpg
    I simply haven't the time to weld in a repair at the moment so stripped, treated with Bilt Hamber rust killer and then painted. Ralph is very health and safety conscious ;)
    IMG_20210929_132218135.jpg
    I will have to make a new hole in the inner panel as a temporary fix to secure the tank filler neck. Not ideal but something to look forward to another day [:v:]

    And finally we started fitting the Mk3 loom. F, G1 and G2 all slotted in, some partial wrapping and laying out. We won't wrap any more until the engine is in and we know exactly where connectors need to be.

    One thing is bugging me though. On the Mk3 tank there is no fuel sender, just the four pin plug. does this do the fuel pump and the sender? Do any wires need to be spliced/joined/disconnected/reconnected?
     
  9. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Pump and sender are all in one, two thinner wires are the sender, thicker are the pump, outer ones on the 4 pin plug from memory. The loom from the mk3 front to back has the 4 wire fusebox plug to tank plug wrapped into it, unpick and it fits in the mk2 ce2 fusebox and use fuel pump relay to power the pump.
    A cuppa helps no end in many situations, I reckon Ralph just wanted you to pop the kettle on so he could sit on that board on the jack and use the fire extinguisher to propel himself up the drive.

    You look like you are one of the models in the lidl catalogue advertising mechanics work trousers mate.:lol::lol:
     
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  10. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks, helpful.
    I won't suggest that to Ralph :lol:
    Trousers from Screwfix and new on today, previous were from Aldi and lasted ages! We have matching trousers now................sad.
     
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  11. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Put my aldi trousers on earlier in week, bought a couple of pairs as had them in long leg and my size waist, not bad for a tenner, just can't work out what the left zip pocket would hold. Can't believe how much the trousers with elephant ears are now, so bought a 'Tim the toolman' belt on Saturday.
     
  12. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm still a Snickers fanboy, couldn't imagine life without my flappy pockets and knee pads.

    On a similar vein, there's nothing as good to soend a full 18 hour day in, as Dewalt Challenger work boots. Comfiest footwear I've ever had.
     
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  13. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    +1 for dewalt boots, both pairs I've had needed no breaking in.
     
  14. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    O
    I always did think you were very intelligent and with exceedingly good taste.
     
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  15. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    My good man, obviously great minds think alike.





    And ours..
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you have a 50/50 chance with that tank neck bracket. the mk3 tank only uses 1 bolt rather than 2, but sods law its probably the one thats rusted out :lol:

    if so, you can drill a hole in the blanked area on the tank and use the hole you still have, make sure you really drown the bracket in protective stuff though that way it wont rot any further at least for the time being
     
  17. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Can't speak for Dewalt boots but I can also attest to Snickers workwear - absolutely great gear, shame you have to remortgage the house to buy it though. When I was sparking, I would use the bib and brace set-up and it was great, was not a fan of the floppy pockets though. I'll be using that gear when I'm back in the Auld Sod in less than 2 weeks whilst working on the GTI & E28 and doing an ever-increasing job list around the house.
     
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  18. Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    I find it's better to buy 100 eur trousers that I get ages out of, and are comfortable, flame retardant etc, than 40 euro ones that last 1/3 the time.

    Plus, and obviously, this is the REAL reason people wear Snickers pants, the chicks really dig a Snickers ars3.
     
  19. PhilRyder

    PhilRyder Paid Member Paid Member

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    Everything you just said has happened :lol: Wrong side rusted out, drilled hole in Mk3 tank blank side and drilled a hole in the inner boot panel for a nut and bolt. I fully intend to go back and weld it up properly.

    Todays update.......

    I HATE DRIVESHAFTS!! but more on that in a moment.

    No pictures unfortunately but Mk3 tank is in (see above) and is a lovely fit. Used Mk2 rubber neck surround as it fit properly, obviously.
    Fuel lines connected and run under the car and into the engine bay.
    Exhaust downpipe refitted to manifold with nice new gasket.
    New crankshaft auxiliary belt pulley bolts fitted and belt back on.
    And.................engine in :thumbup: That is most definitely a tight fit, lots of careful manoeuvring but it's in with no damage to anything around it. Front cross member back on.
    Now, did I mention I hate driveshafts? Why are they always such a pig to connect up? The short one I had to jack up the wheel to get enough play to connect it but got there in the end. But the other side, OMG! It would not line up, it seemed too short, it got twisted.............. In the end I had to undo the hub nut and push the splined end almost all the way through the wheel and then after much bashing and wrenching and shouting it suddenly straightened itself out and popped into place. Hallelujah. By the end of it I had lost all strength in my fingers and that was the end of the day. Still a good 8 hours though.


    Another fun filled day ahead tomorrow [:|]
     
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  20. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hadn't better ask if put driveshaft gaskets in then.
    Bit like the anti roll bar I ended up swapping over several sets of shafts on mine, vr6, mk3 tdi, back to vr6 and back again, that 800mm spline bit was a godsend.
    I removed the hub nut, track rod end and three bottom ball joint bolts then swung the hub out the way, can manouvere the shaft easier as is free and not so cumbersome.
    Did the front mount line up OK, which one did you use in the end?
    Sounds a much better day than sanding solid oak cupboard doors and 15 minutes to go having to make 2 new wardrobes as someone else made it 300mm too short!
    So firing up video tomorrow then guys?
     

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