88 GTI 8v first start after 10 years any advice welcome

Discussion in '8-valve' started by GTIBOB, Jul 14, 2020.

  1. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi thanks
    Is there a guide somewhere re. fitting a timing belt?
    Would love to do it myself.
    Now that the engine is running smoothly so timing is good.

    after removing wp pulley and tb covers

    is it safe to assume that if I mark exact positions of pulleys and ensure they don’t move
    Cut off old tbelt
    Fit new tensioner
    Fit new belt to pulleys which have not moved
    Adjust tensioner

    am I done ??? Can I presume if pulleys have not moved that timing will be good?
    Can any damage be done?
     
  2. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks but is thermostat not mechanical and built into the Water pump?
    Component in photo has coolant pipes and electrical connectors. Is thermostat inside?
     
  3. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Another general question to all.
    Having very carefully fitted new in tank fuel pump and added 20l fuel the fuel gauge is not registering. Whilst float sender Was out all wires were soldered and intact. Can there be an issue with the contact wiper. Do these fail after periods of non use.
    Is there a fuse to check?
    Cheers
     
  4. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    And another
    Indicators not working properly.
    Hazard warning switch runs all 4 indicators as it should.
    When indicator stalk used green indicator dash led stays on constant.
    Could it be a relay?
    Thanks for any advice
     
  5. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    This sounds more like a stalk issue, check the relay anyways, it’s free!
     
  6. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Which relay is for indicators?
     
  7. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    not a big fan of cutting the belt , no real need its a easy engine to time up , pretty obvious if the marks line up or no

    turn the engine after youve done with a socket and re confirm the marks are still good before starting , post pics if in doubt
     
  8. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Related story, and one for the track day/rally boys etc;
    Just getting my mk2 rally car ready for a sprint event next week and find the car is running dreadfully. (group A spec engine on 45's)
    Plugs? No. Spark? No
    Tops off carbs and the petrol is brown...
    Drained tank, flushed system with new fuel, and its back to full health.
    Lesson;
    Modern fuel is ten times worse than it ever was.
    Days gone by you wouldn't think twice about firing up a race car stood for 3-6 months.
    Now, I'm going to have to drain everything down as a matter of course
    Jon
     
  9. Simon Peter Dodgson Forum Member

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    I put super unleaded in my bikes. Otherwise after 3 months it's a varnish fest in the carb with unleaded petrol
     
  10. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    Yeah, so do I.
    I am going go look at different brands, maybe some are better than others?
    Also, the 'new' in tank lift pump failed in less than 10hrs of use, another thing to worry about. (Topran make, no doubt chinese...)
    The lift pump is used to fill a swirl pot under the bonnet.
    Oh well.
    My worry about draining the tank while stored is that the lift puop will dry out.
    Anybody had any success with fuel stabilising potions?
    Jon
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    coolant leak is from the front flange, gradually loosen the 2 bolts till its off then replace the o'ring. do the side one at the same time, maybe do the thermostat housing on thew bottom of the waterpump while system is open, may as well do stat also if you decide to.

    timing belt its a case of removing top cover, crank pulley (4 allen bolts, dont undo the big 19mm in the middle but can use it to hold engine still while you crack the allen bolts) then lower cover, loosen tensioner, remove belt. the distributor is free to move when the belt is off, so have the rotor arm off and keep an eye on it so you dont allow it to move too far. timing marks and ignition timing as per this thread:
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...ose-and-tune-your-mk2-digifant-gti-8v.124949/

    the very worst thing that can happen is you move dizzy, if so the car will not run if you're too far off or it'll be very slow if only slightly off. with a simple timing light its an easy fix, or if the timing is 100% correct now its just a case of moving intermediate shaft a tooth at a time till its spot in.

    for fuel level sender, first thing loop a wire between the brown and purple/black on sender. if it goes to full, wiring is ok. if not check you have earth on the brown wire, should see voltage on the purple/black from the gauge.

    for indicators, check fuse 19.
     
  12. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks RJ for advice.
    Learning a lot as I work my way through each step of refurb.
    Progress to date:
    Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Drained 20 year old fuel and added 20l of 97 premium. Car started up perfectly after couple of primes. First start in nearly 10 years Really chuffed.

    New radiator and thermostat and coolant. Now cooling system appears to be circulating properly and fan cuts in and out after a while on tickover. Temp gauge working. Didn’t change water pump or hoses as all looked fine with no cracking.

    Fitted new exhaust from downpipe. Just wrestling with final clamping to avoid tailpipes knocking on rear valance. Sounds crisp.

    job list:
    Fuel gauge not working
    Indicators not working (just green led comes on when stalk operated) however hazard warning lights work??
    Central locking vacuum system not working.

    renew all discs and pads, flexi hoses. Considering buying a pre made full brake line kit I spotted on eBay

    Query: found that brake compensator valve was seized. Managed to free it up with WD40 and not it moves freely. Is it safe to assume that if the lever moveS freely then it’s working? There’s a rubber seal which is still there but loose. No sign of any fluid leaks around valve.

    leaving timing belt change till later as still lack confidence in setting timing.

    one final thing......spoke to a guy who said the 8v GTI engine is a non interference type and so should not be damaged if tbelt snaps before I get around to changing it. He added however that the 16v engine would be damaged by a tbelt break.
    Any truth in this??
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2020
  13. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Got fuel gauge to work again and delighted not to have to mess with clocks.
    Not sure who gave the tip on how to check if gauge is working by bridging the purple and brown connector pins with ignition on. Whoosh straight up to full tank so gauge and wiring is good.
    So issue must be with sender. Bit miffed at having to haul the tank pump out again after recent installation but needed to investigate.
    Trusty multimeter to check continuity of wires....all good?? So issue must be wiper or VR track. No continuity to wiper which seemed strange. Decided to disassemble wiper pivot and immediately spotted the white dusty corrosion on wiper copper contact see photo. Cleaned extremely carefully with steel wool to a bright shine. Sorry should have taken photo of the after. Reassembled wiper pivot and tested resistance at pins as float arm moved. Bingo!
    Pump and sender back in tank ignition on and 1/2 tank registering as expected.
    Delighted to check off another job.
     

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  14. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Rear brake calipers??
    Have bought new discs and pads to fit.
    Began by trying to free the very stiff handbrake lever on caliper. Despite about 30 mins forcing lever back and forth adding lots of WD40 it only just moves back to stopper off position with the spring. Should the lever spring back quickly or is a slow return normal?
     
  15. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just checking....
    Do you have to remove rear caliper carrier to change rear discs?just managed to crack the two carrier Allen bolts free but haven’t removed yet.
    Is it tricky to reassemble the rear wheel bearings and races?
     
  16. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Some new discs have the races already fitted.

    Yes have to remove carriers.

    Need to just nip up the bearing nut to adjust the bearing then slacken it a touch, it's a feel type of thing really.

    Don't forget a new split pin or 2!
     
  17. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    see here for fitting bearings , its a drum but same bearing ....dont overtighten it see how he does it

     
  18. Tristan Forum Junkie

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    Jon, re fuel, same here on our Weber equipped cars. Awful gunk. You can get fuel stabiliser cheap for the likes of lawnmowers, little bottles like 2 stroke mix. Also lots of people using it in the leisure boat industry.
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if handbrake lever is stiff on caliper just bin off and replace with mk3 golf ones./ can go mk4 if you like but make sure bleed nipples are free and you'll have to spend out on conversion hoses

    for indicators check fuse 19
     
  20. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Getting closer to getting the GTI back on the road in over 20 years.
    Car is running fine with all electrics working. Brakes seem ok.

    having been stored for over 20 years I am reluctant to rev engine beyond 4K . Have this idea that it needs to be driven gently or something will blow or burst.
    I used to ‘give her the beans’ to the red line back in the day .....is it wise to do that to an ‘88 engine??

    Is it possible that the car can be driven hard ie. motorways and high rev 3rd gear acceleration without risk of damage or breakdown.?
    Some I’ve spoken to suggest that unfortunately with a car of this age it will be one thing after another once it’s back running due to age of components.

    what do others think.....once well serviced and running is the 8v likely to withstand spirited driving like back in the 80’s
     

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