88 GTI 8v first start after 10 years any advice welcome

Discussion in '8-valve' started by GTIBOB, Jul 14, 2020.

  1. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I'm still going to stick with crud holding out the pump from working but you may well be right - fair pain in the nads replacing pumps that have done bugger all but still fail regardless
     
  2. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi there giraffe
    Just in from another disappointing session trying to get this 8v running again.
    Funny reading your post has perked me up again. A dark cloud decended earlier and I began to consider if all this hassle is worth it .
    I’m sure you understand the frustration of replacing both pumps and having car running well only to leave it for couple of months and then no start. Big setback.
    Today I thought I would pull out the main pump and check if mesh filter is clogged and try to power it up out of the car.
    Doing this job lying under axle stands so all very cramped for working. I was sure there would only be about a litre of fuel in accumulator box but damn fuel kept gushing out and after half a basin full I gave up and just pushed pump back in connected everything back up and of course nothing doing.
    Interested to read that this happened to you Giraffe . You just automatically rule out the possibility that a recently replaced part can fail.
    I have attached power to the pins of the main pump and there’s just a click. I’m sure it should run continuously but just a click. So I’m going to replace this 6 months old pump with another and see what happens.
    The lift pump primes before and after ignition and I know accumulator is full of fuel. Filter replaced six months ago. Just under 1/2 tank showing on gauge.
    So giraffe you replaced the accumulator pump and she fired up??? For the sake of another pump I’ll give it a go.
    Thanks for taking time to post . Spooky that I should read your post today. Now got my own spark back. I’ll keep posted if new pump works.
    Cheers
    R
     
  3. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Interested to note you say both pumps should prime briefly on ignition. I thought it was only the lift pump that primed and the main only kicks in on fire up.
    I’ll get another one of these main pumps and see how I get on
     
  4. Giraffe

    Giraffe New Member

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    Hello! No, with power to the pump it should run constantly. I had a spare pump (but really corroded about the sealing area ridge) and put power to this (a 12v adapter as the source) and it runs constantly. It shouldn’t just click. That sounds like the motor internally can’t run the pump and is seized.

    When I connected the multimeter to the pump connection (bottom pump) I get a prime voltage, a running/turning over voltage and then a reading for a second on ignition off. Then nothing when key is off. So at least in my car the main bottom pump is on to prime and then continues to run on turning over and running.

    your issue sounds indentical to mine. I too had ruled out the pump as I’d replaced it but yet hadn’t even driven so it’s literally had 20 mins of use in total (started once a month and run for a few mins/seconds) and had never even been driven. But 100% it had and did fail probably from lack of use. To be honest for £30 delivered for a new one.... not that bothered by that. My fault for not finishing him and driving him more!

    Don’t give up on him, it’s just one of those set back days but it’ll be worth every swear word and frustration when he kicks into life again.

    keep strong, you’ll get there. It sounds to me that this is definitely your issue, it’s just so similar to mine so well worth a try!
     
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  5. H8V

    h8v Forum Member

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    GTIBOB.....remove the fuel feed pipe (the right hand one as you look from the tailgate) from the top of the fuel tank before opening the swirl pot/accumulator. That way only the fuel in the swirl pot will drain out. If you don't disconnect the tank feed all the petrol in the fuel tank will syphon out, as you found!!
     
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  6. Giraffe

    Giraffe New Member

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    I only lost this much fuel from the pump when I changed it yesterday. Not much really. I undid the three screws holding the collar a little and let the petrol leak out into the flat container I had. Left it for about 40 mins but probably didn’t take that long, I just went to have tea!
     

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  7. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    So I also thought maybe the fuel is syphoning from the tank so I disconnected the left hose on top of the lift pump assuming the arrow out meant to the lower pump. Fuel kept coming.....
    Will now take your advice and disconnect the blue hose on right. I’ve ordered another main pump. Cheers for the information re. Blue hose
     
  8. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers this is a great help
    Can I also ask....does fuel flow from filter to accumulator pump and then to injectors or does it flow from accumulator pump through filter and then to injectors???
    It’s just when I pulled off the pump to filter link hose there was no fuel in it after all those start attempts and I thought this was strange I thought the filter would be full???
     
  9. H8V

    h8v Forum Member

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    Here you are...Pump outlet to filter, filter to injectors. There is an arrow on the filter for fuel flow direction.

    upload_2021-2-7_16-11-50.png
     
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  10. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks for the diagram
    So a dry link pipe from pump to filter suggests no flow through pump.... well done Sherlock
    Can’t wait to change the pump and I bet she’ll fire on first turn .
    Bought pump from a reputable retailer so will b having a word re warranty on pump I’m pulling out. I’m sure it had a 2 year guarantee
     
  11. H8V

    h8v Forum Member

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    Just seen that yours is an '88 car, so you might have this layout... either way, it looks like you've found that problem.. so obvious when you know the answer.

    upload_2021-2-7_16-39-40.png
     
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  12. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks hv. I do hope this new pump solves the problem cheers for the diagrams
     
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  13. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Can I just check two things ??
    a. Does the 8v PB GTI share engine and gearbox oil or Is there separate gearbox oil which I should be changing. I haven’t ever changed gear box oil in nearly 25 years of ownership. Hoping I haven’t slept in here big time.

    b. Is the PB a non interference engine which wouldn’t be damaged if timing belt were to break. Hasn’t happened but just wondering
     
  14. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Seperate gearbox oil, there's no specific interval for changing it, but it won't hurt they take about 2-3 litres from memory. EP80 oil.

    I had a quick search about and it appears to be a non interference lump. I did post at the start I wouldn't chance a 20 yer old belt lol
     
  15. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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  16. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    thanks GVK I wonder if the gearbox oil would be like water now having never been changed??
    Bit lazy but can I ask where’s the filler / drain bungs?
    Have to confess I still haven’t tackled replacing the timing belt . I know the belt was changed 6 months before I layed the car up in 2001. Gambling that it won’t snap on me whilst I’m just getting engine running again. No high revs mainly tick over.
    Comforting to know it’s non interference PB so hopefully no damage would result if belt did snap. Will def do it before it leaves driveway
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes pro tip when doing main pump disconnect the 2 lift pump hoses first, else whole tank will try to drain due to capillary action ;)

    for box oil go to VW, its cheap and good stuff. G 060726A2 at £8.19+VAT a litre (you need 2)
     
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  18. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    GTIBOB and costel1969 like this.
  19. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

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    all new parts have a two year guarantee now as i think it is law.
     
  20. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Flushing heater matrix
    Will be doing a thorough flush of coolant system soon. I’ve read posts where some say just disconnect both heater hoses and flush with a hose.
    Is there a particular in hose and out hose? Is it best to flush out the matrix through a particular hose.
    I’ve read of leaking matrixes and mines not leaking at present touch wood. I’m sure there is a lot of rusty gunk in heater system which I should try to remove.
    Can any harm be done by flushing the matrix with good pressure??
     

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