If your car is back and running and well serviced it certainly should - my plan of attack was always one 'shakedown' run - moderate speeds plenty of brake checks, on windy and uneven roads for 10-15 miles to ensure everything gets a good going over. If there are no strange sounds/knocks/groans/squeals and instruments are all giving you the thumbs up - on the next run - Boot It!!
Agree At the stage where car is running and brakes renewed. Thing is it’s currently untaxed uninsured and no MOT. I’d love to give it a run as you say just to bed brakes in and loosen up gearbox and suspension. Risk of being caught on an ANPR pretty high here. Not an option. So first drive will probably be the drive to MOT and back. Guessing they’ll be particularly fussy and rigorous with a car that’s been off the road so long. Bound to go home with a shopping list. But I think it will be worth all the hours spent during lockdown. I think she’s still looking pretty good after 32 years
once you have taken care of all the maintenance jobs, flushed oil & coolant etc just drive it like you stole it once warmed up as per usual. if there's anything wrong inside the engine driving it gently for a while wouldn't make any real difference these 1.8 engines are bomb proof, and very worst case if it does go there are thousands of engines out there in various cars you can use as donors to fix your car, or even go for a 2.0 8v bottom end from a mk3 golf or similar. brilliant no-effort low cost upgrade giving you loads of extra torque
Thanks.....I hope engine will pull as strongly as I remember. Had car out to run engine today. Noticed coolant weeping from these two flanges circled in photo. Do you replace just the O rings or does the flange itself need replacing.?thanks
Mk2 GTI handbrake?? Not happy with handbrake hold even after new discs and pads. Is the only guarantee of a good handbrake to replace both rear callipers? See pairs of callipers available for £70-100 on eBay.....are these a good buy?
the front one is alloy so keep that, just do the o'ring. when loosening and tightening do the 2 bolts gradually otherwise theres a risk you'll crack the housing. side flange is plastic, just replace the whole thing it'll be warped. with handbrake you may need to bed the rear discs in before you get a decent bite, but make sure the caliper is adjusted correctly. with handbrake off there should only be a mm or so of wiggle on the pads. it could be the caliper itself is gone however, if so mk3 golf are a nice direct swap they have a redesigned handbrake mech which is a little less prone to failure. can also go mk4, those are alloy and need custom flexi line kit to fit but apart from that no better than mk2/3. if you have typ-19 shell you need to mount later mk2, mk3 and mk4 calipers upside down, no issues apart from you need to remove and hang the caliuper the right way up to bleed. if its typ-1G then mk3 are straight fit, mk4 go with conversion hoses as I say. to know what car you have check your VIN , or look at the handbrake lever. if its liek mk1 golf with just plastic trims on the lever and bare carpet, its 19. if it has a piece of trim on lever and also a surround clipped to the floor its 1G.
Thanks for that John. Will get o rings and flanges sorted soon. I know handbrake is going to be a pain. Currently can’t get to drive car to get brakes bedded in. Tempted to see if I can trailer to local race track if I can pay for some track time to blow off cobwebs. Haven’t replaced handbrake cables as presume would make no difference to hold. Might just replace both rear callipers. Surely new callipers will provide good handbrake??? also just discovered brake compensator valve is weeping fluid. Presume that’s gonna need replaced....”You don’t need it do you”
how bad is the handbrake? even with discs not bedded in it should be able to hold the car reasonably well. if its really weak then the pistons are probably knackered inside. deffo grab a new compensator while you're having the hydraulics open 191612151 or 357612151
Replaced plastic flange on side of block and seems to be sealing. Replaced o ring on front of block coolant alloy fitting but it’s still weeping. I’m reluctant to tighten the two screws any further and risk stripping threads. The old o ring was green and appears to be square sided rather than circular in section. Would it make any difference the section of the o ring re sealing. Tempted to try adding some instant gasket to see if I can get the alloy flange to seal. Oh yes another itch I can’t scratch.....after I’d replaced lost coolant and fired up to check circulation and radiator fan operation the led keeps flashing on the temp gauge. Needle stays around middle of range and fan cuts in after thermostat opens. what can be causing the LED to keep flashing when all seems to be fine temp wise. Any thoughts appreciated
Anybody recommend the best way to flush the coolant system of an 8v GTI? Did an initial flush at beginning of resto and thought I’d got most of the crud out. This evening whilst replacing side coolant flange I noticed there was a lot of orange gunk in the pipe connected to the flange which appears to go to the heater through bulkhead. Is there a way to flush out heater matrix?
pop off the rad hoses, both heater matrix hoses from block and metal pipe. push hosepipe in each open orifice and also in the top of the header tank one after the other and blast thru till water comes out clear. then reconnect all hoses, top up with water and drop a cup of washing powder or a dishwasher tablet in the tank. run engine up to temp till thermostat opens, keep going for 5 mins or so then shut off and allow to cool. repeat the above process then refull with proper coolant mix. with the front flange take it off again and check head surface, if pitted wire brush it till clean and fill pits with chemical metal. sand smooth and try again. the original seal would have been round, its just been on there years and squashed square profile
Can anyone recommend tyres for 8v GTI on 14” le Castelet rims. Think it’s on 185s at moment can you run wider safely?
To only advice I have is not to scrimp on tyres and put something decent on - Bridgestone/Avon/Semperit/Yokohama. I have used Yoko's and Bridgestone's before and I found them to be good, I've also heard good things about Falken and Laufenn but I've never used them to be honest
Cheers....yes I will try to choose a decent brand. Was more curious about viable widths and profiles. Think car has 14x60x185 Yokohama’s at present. I like the idea of a wider tyre but what’s the widest safe size to fit?
I'm pretty sure you can definitely go to 195's - My MB 190 over here is rated for 185 65 15 but the car has 195 65 15's on it and there's no issue at all.
Seems like I can only have 195 on 15” rims. Must say prices are very reasonable. My e92 BM daily driver tyres start T £80. Long time since I’ve been looking at tyres around £50 or 60quid.
Yep 14" tyres are no longer the norm but as you say at least they're a lot cheaper - didn't know that you were held to 185 with 14" rims. You could look for a set 15's but that will be a lot more cash - I do prefer the 15's myself as they're that bit beefier