Right... its 100% No 3 cylinder thats the problem i can take both injector and coil wiring off and the car runs how it has been from the start of this problem.. If i do the same to the other cylinders the car stalls instantly.. but is this now a wiring issue? not too keen on removing the wiring loom. but i dont know what else it could be. Any help would be extremely greatful
Ive decided im not spending no more time or money on this Lemon ive had enough.. I'm breaking it everything up for sale!!!
Have you tried the ignition amplifier? Often overlooked. Would be a shame to give up on it mate. Oops, just seen benthejettaman post. Make sure you check it. I posted a link on richard mk2 thread the other day. Take a quick look at it.
Didnt think the AUM had ignition Amp. thought they where built into the coilpacks? It definitely something todo with just cylinder 3 the others are fine. you can leave both wiring for injectors and coil off and the car keeps running (very badly, but nothing changes) but with the others if you pull either coil or injector the car stalls. And ive chased wiring and it goes all the way back to the ecu... and to be honest i dont have the right minerals for electric. so the car has beat me! And my morale with it is dropping... ive only driving it twice
Yes your right, its all built in. Mine is the auq and has an ignition amplifier. Im very new to these engines, so apologise. Dont give up on it just yet. Will more than likely to be something simple. Its just finding out what it is, thats the problem. Is it possible to leave the coil and spark plug out so you can see if its firing ok? A bit old skool I know lol Have you checked the coil pack loom? Spark plug gaps?
No problem im also new the all of this. just frustrating that the car cost alot and ive only driven it twice Yeah i thought about that.. but if i swap the coils over from a 100% working one. i still get the same issues. only thing i think it could be is either wiring or the ECU itself. And i really really dont want to pull the hole wiring from injectors/coils out as it chases back into the ecu
It sounds like it mate. I would have thought that if it was sensors, it would effect all of them. There are alot of people on here with alot of knowledge about these engine. Im surprised no one else has commented Come on lads, give the guy some help here!
If you swap the coil packs over, does the problem remain on the same cylinder? Or does it move with the coil? Have you spoken to the guy you originally bought the car off? He might have come across this issue already.
someone suggested this to me.. either a faulty compression tester or you've slipped a couple of teeth on the belt and twanged the valves, with cyl 3 being the most affected. 95 psi is what i see with cracked exhaust valves generally, tends to be enough to cause a misfire. all guess work though really without having the car infront of me.. still would be worth at this point checking that the timing marks all line up. but surely this would cause smoking? and i had checked my timing marks and they all matched. is there another way to check?
Not sure about that mate. I wouldnt have thought so. As you said in your first post, it was running perfectly fine at first. Surely you would have had the same problem to start with? If it was my car, id check all the wiring, especially the coil pack loom etc. Maybe a wire was stretched or burnt etc. Like I said, im pretty new to all this and im pretty much guessing mate. Seems logical though. Another thought, could there be a slight blockage in the line to the injector? Further more, if there was a problem with the timing, or valve to piston contact, would cylinder number one have the same problem also? I will be seeing someone tomorrow who might be able to help or have an idea. If nobody else is willing to help or make any suggestion, its worth a try. Some input is better than nothing. Stick with it though, or you will only end up regretting not having one again!
I appreciate your input. I've had the whole inlet off along with fuel rail injectors etc. I've swapped injectors around still same problem. I would have thought if it was rings/valves more valve but I would have smoke. And I have none. I'm thinking it has to be wiring.. but I'm rubbish at fault finding with electrics
Will have a word with my mate tomorrow and get back to you asap with any suggestions. I had a similar problem to you and richard mk2, and ended up having to have a few things replaced. N249, MAF and throttle body. Couple of leaky boost pipes aswell lol I nearly ended up taking it back to the previous owner, parking it on his drive and demanding my money back. Had a few issues which really pi $$ ed me off, but sorted it now.
Do you have a multi meter? Best way to test wiring without stripping loom. Did you do a compression test in a cold engine?
I've just spoken to a mate. And he also thinks it's a burnt valve. He said about getting to him for a smoke test comp test etc.. and then head off. And if it is that.. that's a cost of 1000
Get the wiring checked first. As daunting as it might sound, try and do the work yourself. There is alot of info on here and on other forums. I knew nothing about engines really, yet I managed to build one up and it ran fine! Jury is out on this second one though! lol Both are ABF's. We just have more pipework and sensors on these turbo engines. The way I see it, if you take it to someone, you pay to have them take it apart, diagnose it, then put it back together. If you have a go at doing it yourself, you eliminate the first part and technically save on half the cost. Have a go. Buy yourself a haynes and note book. Write down everything you do and label everything. I promise you, it really isnt that bad and pretty enjoyable. Trust me, if I can do it, you can! lol
