So, I had a pain in my face trying to identify what bolt goes where, what size it should, and what torque it should be. So I've compiled some PDF's that I can use for quick reference. I might post them in the chassis section but I don't want to feed anyone incorrect information. If someone wanted to verify the data well then I might post it up. I might even add in some photos of what each bolt looks like to each PDF, could be handy. Below is what I have come up with, in case anyone is interested. I've filtered everything down to be specific for my car, so be aware that some torque specs or part number might be different for different models. Specs are for 1991 3 door 8v Gti Manual with 280mm front calipers.
Good point that I should have included. Sources are the 7zap for the part numbers, nut and bolt sizes, and the graphics. Torque settings are from the Haynes manual and have been cross checked with the work shop manuals.
The US corrado g60 auto has a tps sensor fitted if you could find one ,would be a bit different to an 8v with the idle and wot swiches and boost return port. Great work btw dave , I've been following your tread with intrest.
Oh wow, I can't believe it has been April since I last worked on this. I've been very busy the past few months, family life, work around the house, work around other peoples houses, it's never ending. I bought an E46 M3 in August and that has taken a bit of my spare car time as there were little niggly bits to tidy up. I had taken too much off the car in one go last year ( or was it the year before? ) and I just couldn't get motivated enough to go out and face it. But as the man says "slowly slowly catchy monkey". Anyway, I couldn't listen to @Tristan anymore about he was going out to his garage most nights to do work on his cars. So last week I said feck it, lets get stuck back into this. A high level list of what remains: Re route and fit the engine bay wiring looms Port PB cylinder head Rebuild 2.0 bottom end with PB head Fit input shaft seal to gearbox Rebuild front bumper and refit Fit dashboard Fit driver side arch liner and wheel arch trim Paint front brake calipers So I started into getting the wiring sorted first. I needed to get the car outside for a while so that I could work inside the cabin easily with the doors full open, and then once the inside wiring was sorted I could fit the dashboard back in place. Started with this mess, couldn't make head nor tail of it as I had labelled it ages ago. So decided it best to break it all out and lay it into the car. The main objective here was to route any of the wires that would normally come through the bulk head on the driver side and travel above the inlet manifold area to the passenger side, to now run from driver to passenger side in the cabin before coming through the bulkhead. The grommets are there and present. A few wire lengths had to be extended. Once the wiring was back in place and bulkhead grommets fitted, it was time to fit the new ATE brake booster. I suppose one of the benefits of having not worked on the car for a while, was that I was able to stock pile new parts or get other parts tidied up. New speedo cable fit, this turned out to be a heap of shite from Autodoc. The brand is Dakatec, avoid! I have it fitted for the moment but I will most likely change it out for something better in the future. Made a boo boo and forgot to fit the ventilation ducting before bolting the dashboard in place. Doh! But got there in the end. With the interior more or less back together I was able to wheel the car back into the garage where I can continue working through the rest of my list. Both of my foglights were cracked and one had the bulb holder mounting clean snapped off. Magneti Mareli ones are hard got and when they do pop up, they are stupid expensive; so DEPO ones it was. I'm not one for driving around with my fogs on anyway. Freshly powdercoated crash bar and fog light brackets Headlight mounting brackets I struggled to get the front splitter to clip into the bumper, a couple of pinches of the clamps and it's in nice and snug now. New adjuster clips on the headlights And the front end back together. Next on the list is to finish the engine bay wiring looms as much as I can until I need the block in place to complete it. Then, I'll probably start into stripping the 2.0 block down so that I can send it to get honed and washed. The M3 needs to come in at some stage too to get the VANOS rebuilt. Either way, the ball is rolling again and I won't leave it as long for the next update.
I take absolutely no responsibility whatsoever for you preferring to spend time with your wife and kids! So would I... But your missus said she thought it might confuse the children!
The 3rd child is mine, I'm sure of it!! 24/7 for the past 2 years, I'm surprised I haven't gotten out there sooner.....
Holy sh!t, I can't believe it has been near two years since I have updated this. I haven't been on the site much either so plenty of threads to catch up on. I have been slowly tipping away at it and thankfully taking loads of photos along the way, so massive update coming. I'll try and piece this together as best I can. Feb - June 2023 So after getting the front end back on it made space in the small garage for more activities. A whole year passed before I did anything else though..... Time to tackle the stripdown of the mk3 8v 2.0 block. It was filthy on the outside, but on the inside is in great condition. It obviously had a good life with plenty of oil changes. All was not good though. During the teardown, I discovered a big lump of epoxy on the side of the block. I chipped away at it to find a massive hole in the side of the water jacket. F**k. It was well over a year since I bought the block, so there was no come back really. Trying to stay motivated to get the car back together I decided to knock the 2.0 conversion on the head. I could revisit it in the future if I really wanted to. So back to the original 1.8 PB engine it was. I knew this block was healthy from the compression tests, and from the dyno run a few years ago, so I didn't bother stripping it down. I just decided to give it a lick of paint to tidy it all up. Wire wheeled the whole thing. I f'in hate wire wheels. They are the devils tool. I think I was still pulling wire splinters out of my knee pads 6 months later..... And lashed on a few coats of Halfords Engine Enamel Paint. This stuff is class. Time to start assembling with all those lovely nuts and bolts I had zinc plated.
June 2023 - Engine Build Up New Oil pump fitted New Power Steering and Water pumps Back at the start of the year and in a few earlier posts in this thread, I tried my hand at porting out my inlet and exhaust ports. I went a bit over board and made a messs of it. Not one to be deterred I bought another head and went at it again, taking a bit more time to ensure they were ported in spec. With the porting done I dropped the head off to a local engine machine shop to get the head skimmed, new valve guides, and the seats cut. 3 weeks passed and I had heard nothing. I called up to them and they said they couldn't do one of the valve guides as the hole in the cylinder head was larger than the other 7. You think they could turn down a new guide but no, not their gig anymore. Frustrated was not the word...... I found some oversize guides from I think a VW PD engine, and another local lad was able to turn them down to the right diameter for me. Back to the Engine Machine shop and they finally completed the job......, in October. I won't be going back, and frustrating as it was I let it go and pressed on. October 2023 New head gasket fitted Cylinder head fitted, new oil cooler, and freshly painted oil filter housing New fuel injector seats fitted. Not sure what was going on with the crusty looking one. Hopefully just a perished fuel injector o-ring which I have now replaced.
Nov 2023 By Jaysus we are sucking diesel now! New cam followers fitted, and new alternator And the original PB camshaft fitted, for now... My plan is to put Fast Road cam in at some stage. I'd like to get it dyno'd before changing the cam, just to see if my cylinder porting made any difference. At this point I couldn't resist fitting the inlet manifold and throttle body. Gotta keep motivated! As part of all of the parts I had powder coated, I included the valve cover. Unfortunately the place I used didnt seal off the cover properly and there was powder on the inside of the cover that could be easily scraped away. I wasn't willing to take a chance fitting it, even after a thorough cleaning. There is no telling what would come away from it after loads of heat cycles. So I sourced another spare one. This thing was rusty... but no way was I getting the wire wheel to it. I'm going to try and avoid wire wheeling wherever I can from now on. I picked some Bilt Hamber Deox-C to see how it faired. This stuff is amzing! After a good 24 hour soak this is the way the valve cover turn out. It need a little agitation every few hours just to break away the loose paint Unfortunately I made a b*lls of painting the cover. I first tried some High Temperature Gloss black brush on paint, but it turned out rubbish with brush marks everywhere. So I sanded it back and sprayed it with a rattle can that I found that was also High Temperature black, matt black I discovered the next morning when I checked on it..... Would you believe I have not been able to get my hands on any rattle can High Temperature Satin or gloss black, everywhere seems to be out of stock of it. Anyway, a black bag for the valve cover it is until I can find some paint. Next up was to fit the timing belt and time it all up. This probably took me 2-3 hours to do. As I had the Intermediate shaft out and the dizzy, I had to be very careful to line everything up before fitting the belt. At TDC I wanted the plug on the dizzy to be at 6 o'clock when looking at it if that makes sense. When fitting the intermediate shaft it turns the dizzy about a quarter turn, so there was a bit of trial and error in getting it lined up just right.
Somewhere along the way I must have been doing a garage tidy up and chucked the exhaust manifold in the bin. I'm surprised I would have done that, so I am fully expecting it turn up at some stage. I couldn't find it, so had to order another one from the local mk2 parts guy. This one came with broken studs so a bit of work required to get all tidied up. Tapped and died all everything And new studs fitted Next up was to service and clean the fuel injectors and rail. I stripped it all down, gave it a good clean, and painted the injectors and FPR to take the look off them. I thought I took more photos of this process. Anyway, cleaned everything wires and all, new o-rings on all injectors and on the fuel pressure regulator, and fitted back on the cylinder head.
Nearly caught up now Front end back off and it was time to get ready to fit the engine. Firstly I wanted to cut back the excess on the driver side brake pipe And whilst in there, I fitted a powerflex power steering rack bushing that I don't remember ordering.... I'll see how it goes, the new original one I had in there actually felt a bit stiffer. Time will tell. Time to get the engine ready for fitting Original clutch fitted. I didn't bother purchasing a new one as this one was in great condition with plenty of meat left on the disc. I just cleaned it up a bit. New clutch disc bolts, and new flywheel bolts fitted. Ready to go home And in Started connecting up what I could. I forgot how sexy these machined gear linkage pieces are. It feels so good changing gear, can't wait to get it back on the road again. Soon.... All the coolant pipes refitted and ready to be connected to the radiator And as it stands today. Next up is the wiring which I have been reading back up on over the last few evenings, so hopefully I will get stuck into it tonight. A few things to note/question: The clutch arm seems to have a lot of travel before it bites, the manual adjustment clutch cable is nearly fully extended. You can see in the photo above it is nearly horizontal but with the cable disconnected, it sits pointing at 7 0'clock. Is this right or is there excess wear on the clutch disengagement pin? There are obviously differences in the speedo cable length too as the one I have is way too short. Maybe it's a LHD one that came from Autodoc, I can't remember
This is lovely stuff - as a matter if interest did you service the injectors Dave or just clean them up?
I just cleaned them. I swabbed the tips with cotton buds and brake cleaner and flushed the body of them out too before refitting. Like I said it was on the money before I took it off the road, so had no reason to send them off for a refurb. But if it gives any trouble I'll do the aul 4 coke bottle test with them to make sure they are flowing the same. I have a set of 315cc Bosch injectors here as well, and I think I remember someone fitting them to their PB with little effort.
Thanks Robert. Ok so I think I mentioned this before, but the looms that would normally come through the bulk head on driver side and up over the coil pack, have be rerouted behind the dash and across to the passenger side, and then come out where the looms would normally be on a LHD car. Those looms running across the bulk head used to drive me bananas. Unsightly and subject to constant heat cycles from the heat from the exhaust manifold, what were they thinking.... I suppose they've lasted this long though. Anyway, its better looking now. So two looms coming out the passenger side now, one for the engine/ECU wiring to fusebox, and the second for items off the passenger chassis leg (washer bottle, coolant bottle sensor, passenger side lighting). There were one or two signals I had to move between looms, I think they were the outside temperature sensor was moved from engine loom to lighting loom, and the reverse switch sensor was moved from lighting loom to engine loom. The lighting loom will still run along the chassis leg, but I plan on cutting back any excess and tidying it up with some braided sleeving. The fuse box to engine loom will go up into the scuttle panel area and be included in the ECU to engine loom. I will have a connector on the fusebox loom just where it joins the ECU loom in the scuttle area to allow the ECU loom to be removed if needs be. Pictures: Luckily I have two sets of looms, the ones in the car and spares that I got a while back. In this photo you can see I have started laying out the wiring to all sensors back up the coolant pipe as in stock format, and then through the scuttle panel. This is all wiring for the engine that either goes to the ECU, or back into the fusebox. You can also see the wiring coming through on the passenger side. Top loom is for the fuseboex to engine/ECU, and bottom is for the lighting loom. I used these lovely deutsch connectors for any of the new connections between looms. This one is for the fusebox to ECU signals. And the layout complete. I need to swap out the wires for the ICV plug as they had broken a few years ago and now have butt connectors inline. Nothing wrong with that but may as well fix any bad/broken wiring whilst I am in this deep. This is the fun part. Getting the loom out of the car, de-pinning everything thing and then pulling the new braided sleeves over everything. Unfortunately, I had loads of braided sleeving here in different sizes, but nothing big enough to go over the full loom. So I am waiting for some more to arrive in the post. I needed to braid something before packing it in. So I went at the small 4 wire loom that runs from fusebox to ECU. Turned out pretty good I think
So whilst I wait for the new braiding, and having given up trying to find some high temperature satin black paint in a rattle can, I have settled for HT Gloss black. The rocker cover actually didn't turn out too bad. New gasket and seals fitted And shiney pitted valve cover fitted The motivation for wiring was not strong this week. So I continued with mechanical works. The plan last night was to get the driveshafts fitted no matter what. I hate this job. It is such a pain trying to torque the shafts on on your own and under the car on your back.... I knew I had to reattach one CV joint, but I didn't realise the others had gotten so dirty, so the majority of them needed a rebuild. Who knew leaving stuff on the ground under your work bench could get so dirty. Uh Stripped, cleaned and reassembled with new boots, grease, and fasteners I don't have any photos of the rest of the work, as I was running out of steam and time so wanted to get it complete. All fitted now and torqued to spec. Next on the list is to change the oil on the gearbox, and to fit a new gearstick mount and bush that I found in box the other day. Then it will be back to wiring and hopefully start it up soon.
