for the temp gauge try a mk3 golf 1.8-2.0 8v 4 pin ecu/dash temp sensor, plugs straight into ecu loom if its early AGU type plug. if its later one you need to change the plug on sensor for the mk3 square jobber. bodge something up by stuffing mk3 plug tails wires into the 20v connector before you cut and splice, just to double check the ecu sender part of it reads right for the 20v ecu! im 90% sure it will be right. the dash part will definitely work with a mk2 cluster though
Thats looks really neat, top work Im having the same problems with mine atm. Just wondering what size the unions were in the Ibiza M/S ? And also, where did you get the brake line from ? Cheers.
I'll look into that ta jonny. I was hoping it would over read due to not having a resistor or something fitted but it's not moving at all. I haven't checked the wiring yet though so could be something to do with that. If there is a sensor that will go straight in think I'll most likely go for it, less hassle. Cheers Rich F'king nightmare aren't they lol It's hard to swallow when you've spent this much time putting everything in, you kind think you've done all the hard work & once it's in, it should just work with no problems! The brake pipes mind, you can't see it now as it's all been covered with heat mat! The brake pipe is just standard copper pipe from halfords for about 10 had to buy M10 fittings off ebay. The ibiza fittings are M12x1 IIRC. Minor update, had the oil filter bracket off & inspected. It was as thought, the relief valve is well & truly seized/powdercoated in there. 112 for a new one I've been trying to test the alternator tonight. Initially the battery light wasn't coming on at any time at all. So checked for 12v at the blue wire - OK. When the blue wire is earthed to something, the light comes on. So the regulator isn't being earthed/switched cancelling out the light - it's just dead as if the wire weren't connected at all. I also have 12v at the other wire from the ECU to pin 1. Pin 1 can be used to earth to where as pin 2 (blue wire/batt light) is dead still. Took the regulator off & tried checking continuity from pin 2 to anywhere on the regulator & it has no continuity to anything. Pin 1 does a few places. I know the regulator is a effectively a transistor so I think the without any continuity from pin 2 to, well anywhere it can only mean its dead? Correct me if I'm wrong - so will be ordering a new alt reg to hopefully solve another problem. Have a load of pictures & videos to upload, just haven't got the time to get them up at the moment!
Thanks for that classy I wish i had sorted this out when the engine bay was empty now. Doh lol Will get these ordered soon
quick n dirty test for the coolant gauge wiring, earth it or bridge the pins on the sender. if gauge goes to full, wiring is ok. if not, wiring is not ok the earth for the coolant temp sender comes back into the dash loom on a mk4 (t10/14 pin 9) it doesnt earth in the engine loom unfortunately. with this pin what I do is run the old earth for the mk2 cluster to head earth (G1/5) to this pin, then splice another wire to it and run it to the side of the head to earth it
Been an expensive week this week for parts, it's 90% sorted on the engine side now so happy days I replaced the oil filter bracket, with oil relief valve incorporated. Oil pressure is now spot on where it should be. Replaced the alternator regulator with a new one after testing & the battery is now charging properly. I still have no battery light working however? I might swap the wires over & see if that solves it. The rattling turned out to be a cambelt tensioner damper. It had no pressure on the rod pushing on the tensioner so was rattling around at 1k-2k rpm, could easily push it down with your finger so replaced that & put a new cambelt on. Turns out for the coolant temp gauge I'd used a piece of masking tape to keep the wires together & hadn't actually soldered them together yet lol. The gauge does slightly over read so I'm going to try the 33ohm resistor & see how that changes it, mind you it's been so long since I looked at a mk2 coolant temp gauge I'm not sure where it's supposed to be when it is reading right. Assume middle of the gauge is 90*? Spent the day taking it easy (hanging lol), cleaned the carpets up by scrubbing & pressure washing them in prep to start putting the interior back together. The engines running pretty sweet now, few issues with a exhaust leak somewhere when cold & burning either fuel/coolant/oil when cold on start up to. Nothing that would hinder performance at the moment though. Also managed to bleed the PAS so that's no longer noisy. Few running videos below anyway:
Looking great as usual! Yes 90 degs should be in the middle,mine went to 3/4 very quickly and the light's came on the dash asap,33ohm resistor on clock wire 23 sorted it though :-) Tripple check ALL boost & vac pipes though,had big problems with mine,even when i think they are ok,going to build a boost leak detector now its that bad,boost gauge is a MUST! so is vag com or simlar,makes life so much easier when ironing out the little niggles. Its all worth it on the 1st drive though 5th gear w/spin has never felt so good lol.
Yes,something like those; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380401648.../sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=380401648418&_rdc=1 I just went into Maplins and asked for some 33ohm resistors & thats what they gave me :-) wired 1 x into pin number 23 and it sorted the problem!
Managing to tick more jobs off the list since last update.. Going to be looking at insurance quotes soon, hopefully I can afford it lol I tried the 33 OHM got these off the bay - # 120747039334 . They also have a 1% tolerance so the resistance is more likely to be 33ohm exactly rather than +/- 5% like the other resistors. My coolant gauge now sits at the line before the middle for 90 degrees, fan cuts in at about 95 where the line just goes almost to the middle but not quite. Now I know where 90* is on the gauge & the coolant light/cluster no longer thinks the car is overheating, I think the 33ohm resistor is ample to do the job. For it to sit exactly in the middle I would probably need to play about with the resistance give or take 5-10ohms to get it spot on. Got the pedal mounted securely, been putting it off for a long time. Just added another hole & m8 bolt at the bottom to prevent it pivoting/moving & a bigger m10 bolt to secure it to the pedal box using nylock nuts. Had to have a good play with the loom to get it fit nicely behind the pedal box. All in now though & I'm happy with it. Had to take the temperature capillary line out for the oil gauge & run it back into the car just to be able to fit the gauge into the facia - never am I buying mechanical gauges again, awful! Got hold of some Audioscape door pods & speaker cable also & fitted those. Ran the speaker cable into the doors & to through the dash to the dash speakers where the tweeters are now going. Fitted the cleaned carpets back into the car, had to trim the front carpet a lot with the soundproofing & the way the looms been run! Need to water proof the doors again by making some membranes. Then started to fit the dashboard back in. Hot glue/sealed the back of the dash where it had started to separate & prevent air being lost when trying to defrost on those cold mornings. SPENT ALOT of time loom wrapping, felt padding out wiring to make sure nothing rattled/touched & everything was secure behind the dash. Had to splice in a 12v light switch feed for the gauges & also a 12v ignition feed supply for EML warning lights. Dash now fitted. EML lights wired in, boot solenoid switch wired in, all gauge illumination works, speedo, vac pipe & all the cluster wired in working. Still need to sort the alternator exciter wire, alternators charging but light still doesn't illuminate on the cluster. I did find the alternator plug though so I can use that instead of the current spade terminals! Going to be looking to put the stereo somewhere, stuck on ideas at the moment seeing as the gauge is taking the current space. Also cocked up with the heatbox flap cables as I must of mixed them up as the temperature on is moving the flaps at the moment lol hopefully nothing a quick switch won't fix, I'll be ****ed if it all has to come back out again...!
Its on the road at last 4 long old years! Haven't updated for a while so I'll try remember what I've been up to - its a big update!, its been a push as I set the deadline to be able to drive it to ED38 next week so have been working non stop til about 11pm every night to get it finished Brings a whole new level of sleep deprivation. That said, it's now road legal just the final touches needing to be done Had to cut engine cover bracket back to make some moving room for the top rad hose. Lots more trimming for the front bumper to get the intercooler to fit nice & snug without to much gap between the bumper & the arch. Trimmed the air flaps for the radiator to fit around the pipes, intercooler etc. Fitted new bumper brackets as originals were broken on both sides. Got hold a tow strap as well just in case it ever breaks..... Touches wood! It's been mounted on one of the front front crossmember bolts using a different bolt & some washers to allow it to turn & sit right, it'll poke through the fog light hole if ever req' Bumper fitted & front end all tied up. Cat loves to sleep on the toolbox for some odd reason lol Ordered some more parts, running the s3 brake light switch & clutch switch so had to modify the wiring & pedal box to run these. Seat guides, alternator plug & a new bonnet cable grommet. Got hold of some braided fuel line to replace the make shift temp connections, the line runs down to underneath the car on to the plastic lines & has about a 5 inch overlap, made some brackets up so the braided line is secure underneath the car, too. Going to look into getting some decent connectors somewhere down the line for the rail connections as the braid is hard to stop fraying. Mounted the secondary fusebox to the main. A most loathed job of keeping the front doors water tight. I remember years ago when I first had the car spending a lot of time trying various different methods to try & keep the bloody stuff out. This time I went for this approach, the double skin. A dust bag from homebase cut up & mounted in the door, in front of the regulator & anything else so any water that does get in rolls straight down the membrane without ever having a chance of getting past the door frame! Also put a second membrane on of the actual vw closed cell foam, lined with butyl to keep the noise & any water still if it did get in. Butyl sealed all around the door mirrors. Cleaned the front wheel archs & the liners. Wrapped the coilovers in cling film & grease, despite inox range still easier to do this to prevent the wear & tear of crap on the threads. Took it into work last saturday for it's MOT & had to carry out a 4 wheel alignment as it's had new tie rods, coilovers & everythings been off & moved the steering was out my miles. Adjusted it by eye after sorting out a ride height I was happy with (spending half a day adjusting & moving it, there is a fine line between the hassle of being low & it looking to high!) Alignment all round is absolutely spot on now, even on the rear axle which is good news meaning nothings bent or worn etc Whilst it was up in there gave me chance to have a good look at the underneath, all looks pretty good so I decided to give it a fresh coat of cavity wax to give it an extra layer of protection, helps the brake lines & other stuff corroding away to. Balenced all 4 wheels whilst I was down there to!
Fitted the dash tweeters for the components today. Stopped the exhaust smashing on the back axle, the jetex 2.5 really is *****, hardly any clearance at all on a lowered car Went to fit the k-jet 5 bar fuel pump which thought would be a quick swap over of the pumps but looks like I need the housing now as well.. So.. as to how it drives.. It goes well, though I think I have a few problems that need ironing out. First off I have genuine mk2 engine management light that thanks to a member off here tells me if I have a fault with the ECU as it would in a factory S3, problem being light comes on all the time after a drive as the guy that de-immobilised my ECU didn't code out all the extras like on the initial, faulty ECU - ball ache. I'm also getting apparently 12 mpg according to the MFA - I wouldn't argue with it either, it's drinking fuel like no other lol 25 of super got me 60 miles Think there is also a boost leak as theirs a air gushing sound whenever boost is building, whether it's a leak from a pipe or the spring in the forge R is to weak or something Im not sure. Power is all at the top end, I did some logs tonight as I've been playing about with VCDS for the first time properly & it's quite interesting to see the results. Apparently it's got a map from Awesome GTI on there but in the next few weeks I'll either be booking it into badger5 or R-tech for a custom map & a decent health check Any recommendations on either company as a preference, would like to hear from you to good & bad. Logs were done from almost idle in 3rd to almost redline, I need to check what it actually is on this engine as I'm not sure I've used a few formulas known to calculate bhp, torque & boost also at the end, feel free to comment on the performance, I've no idea what the norm is.. Anyway.. Hope to see some of you folks at ED38 next weekend, it'll be parked in the car park mind! I'll post some actual visual pictures up soon as the car needs a damn good detailing!
Congratulations M8 The first drive is the sweetest really,knowing that you built the car & know every inch of it. A very well done on your build,its better than mine. How did it drive? Mine give simlar figures looking at your logs (mine varies between which MAF i use) your G/S is very simlar to mine but your NM is lower. I too have a very loud air gushing sound with boost building (i think its the BAM pipe and lack of sound deadening) but i have a boost leak again as i keep on changine the same boost pipe (will sort it this week) Got my MFA reading to an average of 23mpg it might be under reading a little but its not far off as it still needs a re-map but i'm waiting till i sort out other up-grades on the engine front. Standard DM clutch has lasted all of 150 ish miles and has started slipping now as the torque is obviously above the OE specs/whats regarded so its a clutch/flywheel change for me now Still got 3rd gear wheelspin in the dry going down hill the other day lol, gotta love a mk2 20vt. Tommy.
Cheers Tommy It goes very well, it's not quite as quick, or more so torquey as imagined it would be? In terms of it's doesn't slam you back in the seat. It seems to make all it's power at high top end at which it seems to eat up the mph, kinda like driving a honda - though I've not driven another mk2 20v before so it's hard to compare. Hopefully a custom map will do it a world of good. I'm also slightly weary that I still only have the digifant low flow pump installed so haven't been completely smashing it everywhere. I've got the k-jet casing coming thursday which falls nicely for friday when the tax starts & I can start driving it again The highest I've seen the MFA was at 17 when I drove it first time but after further driving at the end it dropped to 11mpg, can only hope the MFA is wrong otherwise I think I have some problems with fuel consumption lol Going to have to start doing some manual calculations for it though as I won't be driving it to often if it's drinking fuel like that Going to be looking for a different front engine mount, the solid one is a bit much in terms of vibrations through the car - thought I could deal with the rattles but it's driving me insane so need to go for a softer mount I think - thinking rado g60 front mount? Also Spoke to R-tech today, have been advised by them to get hold of a badger 5 TIP & bin off the forge split R valve for a 007p - despite how much I like the noise lol before I take it for a map to maximise power potential, still looking around at other tuners however. Bad times with the clutch opportunity to go lightened flywheel though! I've yet to get a 3rd gear wheel spin, too gonna have a go friday lol
id go for the mk2 1.3 bonded rubber, compromise between stiffness and harshness the other optuion is corrado/toledo front carrier + vr6 mount, see turbotommy for one of those he has hundreds sat about
LOL jonny,but yes he's right lol , if you need a toledo tdi one,just shout and you can have one for free It does sound like you have a boost leak,mine is the opposite really,have to be very gentle indeed,get over 2.5k rpm then its time to change gear or its wheelspin,even at quarter throttle or less.I short shift everywhere as the torque pushes in hard from about 2750 rpm,no point in reving it as its too quick on public roads really (and the clutch slips with grip),complete mare in the wet,got thrown violently towards a ditch yesterday in 4th that i was not expecting. Going to try the old "hairspray" trick on the new boost pipe when i fit it this weekend,then its off to the smoke test machine to make sure i've got them all. Also want a Badger5 3" TIP before i remap but perhaps an LSD is needed 1st,but i'm going to try some R888's when i've swapped the flywheel & clutch over. Have you tried loging block 115 to measure requested boost vr's actual boost? that should tell you if there is a leak.
Car is all good now, turns out my N249 was severely holding back the boost so was practically running in limp home mode. Decided to unplug it the other night & it's *ing mental fast now Will be bypassing it completely today. Booked into Badger 5 tuesday for a bit of health check anyway as I wasn't convinced it was 'right' still now I've unplugged the n249 I still want it checked for boost leaks & few logs, then I'll be booking it in for a map if it gets the all clear Few finished pictures. Stereo fitted at last & relocated to the centre console, gave it a good clean etc B)
Awesome bud thats a really good looking install , when I hear how quick these conversions are it makes my itch to do one get even worse
Cheers guys. Yes Baz! We'll have to start going to a few meets - seems to be loads around Worcester now! Had Bill @ Badger 5 smoke test it on tuesday, have a couple leaks that need addressing. 1 from the vacuum joiner on the side of the inlet manifold & another from the PVC pipe that goes into the filter housing. I'm hoping when these are fixed it will solve the surging on/off boost problem I seem to be having intermittently @ WOT Also got a Badger 5 V3 TIP ready to install & a Toad Alarm I need to fit for central locking & further security purposes.
