Mounted the gearbox shifter. Been putting this off for a while as I couldn't think of a way to mount it properly The problem being when the bottom cover is on & the cables are connected you have no way of stopping a bolt from moving around so won't tighten up Anyway, after speaking to the old man he mentioned carriage bolts so went to Home base & got some & they work spot on . Just had to square off the holes to fit, and obviously bolts will need trimming down. Put a decent layer of foam around the underneath of the surround so it's all air tight & fits snug. Also no pictures but had to bash the tunnel underneath because of the cable routing, so painted & waxed all that. All in, just need to cut the bolts down to size. Was going to use a bracket made for the rear but it's so strong & stable with those 2 front bolts I don't think there is any need. One less job to do. Engine Fitted Drive shafts connected, gear shift cables in & adjusted. Turbo outlet hose fitted, clutch hydraulic line flared & routed. Wiring loom threaded through (absolute a$$hole job). Fitted the cooling hoses & air/vac hoses back on. Need to consult ELSA as I can't remember where half of it goes now Few random shots of things, why a heat shield is a necessity around the steering column boot. Its practically touching. Still deciding where I'm going to put the 02 connector & EGT box too as they're quite bulky & that space is pretty crowded with the loom, gear shift cables & the speedo cable poking out to. I still can't decide whether to thread the braided oil pressure hose for the gauge alongside the wiring through that same hole or route it separately. Dont know whether heat etc will be an issue? Also need to order ANOTHER adaptor as the temperature probe for the oil gauge is completely the wrong thread Gauge has been a nightmare, totalling 150 so far just for bloody! oil gauge
Tedious day of sorting out the wiring today :blink: Pretty much all wrapped up though bar few minor details. Fitted the rear washer bottle, finally figured out how it mounted run all the hose & ran the wire up for the pump. The wiring from the chassis legs has been cut out to sit between the underlay then put some self adhesive sound deadening over it to keep it all in place. Engine loom wiring fed into a some corrugated tubing & will sit just under the column boot. Wired up the tacho converter box, coolant temp feed/earth, speedometer & additional fusebox for some of the engine feeds. Ideally need to get the accelerator pedal fitted into place now as it looks like the wiring might be in the way at the moment. Battery cables have all been made up also. Measured up the space in the n/s boot side ready for a battery.
Nice progess!! Did you put a flexi on the clutch hose and what size pipe did you use? Whats the rear mounted washer bottle off?
Thanks mate. Believe it is off a early 1.3 mk2 golf though don't remember exactly as I've had it ages! Can you get you the part number if you like. I contemplated using a flexi hose after looking at the diagrams on ETKA but struggled finding one. If I find one I'll get it but for now I'm just using the standard 3/16 brake pipe I had left over, run straight & secured from the clutch master to the slave. See how it goes/feels, not sure if it's supposed to be a thicker pipe? Just used what I had left over. They are m12 fittings at both ends though.
The engine moves around a lot on it's mounts, it will fatigue the copper pipe and it will fail, you really need a flexi in there, speak to hell one of the forum sponsors.
Defo need a flexi for the clutch hydro line, it will defo break. Great progress though buddy, looks clean as a mofo!!
Ordered a flexi from TPS.. It came and is what looks best like a coolant hose So waste of 50 at the moment & I'll hope they take it back as I've double checked the part number on my copy of ETKA & it's looking to be correct! If anyone can help I made a thread in the chassis section Cheers Mush!
A bit of a mundane not very exciting update in terms of progress but lots of little things done. Spent today tieing up more loose ends & trying to get the accelerator pedal in the perfect position by cutting away a little bit at the bracket & G clamping it.. then cutting away some more. It's still not finished Connected up the fuel lines, I liked the idea of keeping the quick release pipe connections there so grabbed some spare fuel hose out of my box from work & used it as a connecting piece between the old & new lines. Bit of foam on the top to protect the paint Fitted the mk2 Master cylinder seals & fitted a clean reservoir & cap. Also fitted the supply line for the clutch master cylinder. I'm probably going to wrap some heat mat around it as it's fairly close to the manifold & is literally a rubber pipe with no protection. Also fitted the gasket in the servo. Ordered some servo pipe ready to make a line up. It's very tight around that area now so I think it will be difficult to use the standard pipe. Heater matrix pipes fitted. Cut down the loom for the EGT sensor as it was about 3 foot to long. Also soldered & connected the starter interlock plug. Started to make up all the earth leads & the soldering iron gave up the ghost. It had a good innings mind! Decided I'm going to put the 02 & EGT plugs behind the heat mat material around the brake pipes. Should be protected & hidden out the way there. Found a grommet in my box at work perfect for the +ve battery cable coming out the chassis leg. Minor adjustment made to the front cross member to allow the PAS pump to clear. & the bane of my life... the racetech 2-1 oil gauge! Now need to either drill & retap a 3/8 thread for the sump plug hole to fit this temp probe or find an adaptor than converts m14x1.5 to 3/8 - which I've had no such luck yet. Also finally managed to get the pressure hose & capillary temp hose through the grommet with the rest of the wiring. Going to wrap them in heat mat later on to.
Wonderful work as usual :-) Just 2 things bother me though,(not picking,but being really helpful honest) The fuel pipes might be safe for the time being but PLEASE change them in the future (i'm sure theywill be fine to start the engine etc.. but IF they leak,in the position they are,they will spray fuel onto the worst possible place. No2 is,the live cable bung/gromet could do with being sealed in with "tigerseal" or simlar. being a fire risk,its good for piece of mind (i did it to mine) then you can forget about it. Yours is WAY better than mine,so when i see anything that could start flames i have to speak up,so i'm sure you understand :-) Anyway,keep up the great work,it gets better & better the closer you get to the 1st day on the road!!!!
Cheers dude. I knew the fuel lines would get mentioned But comments & criticism is welcomed However.. They are seriously crude to describe them at best but you'll be re-assured to know it's just until I find a better way of linking them up If you or (anyone) has any ideas on the best way to rig them up securely I'm all ears I was going to make a call to pirtek so mock up some ends that would join them up properly? Though as above, would like to keep the quick release clamps in place still. The grommet is really tight in & around the cable, had to be pushed in with a screwdriver but cheers for the tip, I'll get some in there
Worth considering though I'm not sure how they match up at the pump end? My wallet has taken an absolute kicking the last 2 months as well so I'll be looking at cheaper, safer ways just for now On the upside, I finally took the plunge & purchased the long anticipated brakes. After working out I only had 31mm caliper clearance from hub to the rear wheel spoke, I would have to run spacers in order to run the preferred brembo ibiza R setup. Instead I went the 280mm Wilwood midilite kit from rally design. Little bit cheaper & loads of clearance, too Big ups to rally design also, very helpful guys & postage was less then a day! (On a g60 disc fitment) Had to make a minor adjustment to my stub axles by cutting off the little lug poking out in the middle of the picture as it was fouling on the disc. OFF! As fitted with new disc Finally found out the answer to the brake disc question also (a little off topic but if anyone wants to know, here it is). The adaptor brackets can be switched around like so to accommodate a standard g60 280mm disc & the rally design disc supplied: Adaptor setup ready for custom 280mm rally design discs. Adaptor setup ready for standard, g60 280mm discs. Initially installed it setup for G60 and was chuffed that fitted as I had read on lupo forums it could be done, also one of the many people I spoke to at rally design said it might be possible to reverse the adaptor to run them. The only problem with running them this way (for me) was lack of wheel clearance, I would of had to run a spacer to get them to clear the rear of the wheel. IIRC the clearance was about 31mm, exactly what I had so my wheels were just touching. After flicking the adaptors back over, cutting off the lug on the stub axle I fitted the supplied RD discs & calipers. The disc is seriously offset to standard, I now have ample clearance IIRC clearance was 21mm - so at least 10mm spare Few pictures of the discs. The RD disc has a larger protruding bell/hub mounting surface. Also the car had electric for the first time in about 3 years as I finished making up all the earth cables Got some heavy duty vacuum hose come through also, utilising the old mk2 line with the new hose used to configure it to fit. Set about checking all the voltage & resistance to earth across the car. Really happy as voltage drop & resistance are non'. Getting the same voltage at the battery as at the starter to. Need to find a place to mount the 150a maxi fuse too. Place where I want to squeeze the battery into was also measured out so need to find a suitable battery to fit now. Also fitted the clutch hydro flexi line & a little cover for the back of the gearbox bellhousing I've been meaning to get for ages!
Overdue update this is spanning back about a month or so since the last update, I’ve been doing bits on pieces it’s not far off now! Had the oil sump off after buying a 19/32 drill bit, machining it down from a tapered collar to fit in a standard chuck h34r: to drill out the sump plug hole. Then re tapped the new hole with a 1/8 BSP thread to finally fit the temperature probe for oil gauge. Cleaned the sump out & re sealed - Secured the capillary line as well, all the way up the engine. Battery purchased & fitted after measurements taken to fit into the required space. Attached a bracket & fitted the 150amp maxi fuse. Going to use a strap to secure it all in place. Future plans to put some MDF sides in to hide it all. Made up the servo pipe out of parts of the S3 line & the mk2 line. After the brakes were fitted, there was no way of securing the rigid lines & flexi lines properly. After a bit of playing about managed to sort that by putting a snap ring around the flexi line & then utilizing the standard rigid line spring clip. Radiator fitted & found a bottom hose to fit. Mounted the slim line fan. Extended & looped up the lines for the auxiliary water pump. Decided on where to fit the expansion tank as it was easier to link up with the pipe work, purchased a T piece to remove the water the overflow pipe that runs standard on the S3 so just using the overflow on the radiator to the expansion tank now. Re- located a T piece for the turbo coolant feed to the main top hose & cut up some old hoses to suit & make a top hose. Bought a box of nuts/bolts for general stuff, running low & 1/4 “ spanner for the wildwood bleed nipples. Fitted the clutch flexi/rigid line. Purchased the other half of the Qpeng downpipe. Removed the wing aerial. Replaced rear brakes & rear bearings & all cleaned up. Replaced the rear load compensator valve with a new one & adjusted to suit. Bled all the brakes twice over with a brake bleeder from work, had to cut off some length for the T piece I bought originally as the unions weren’t sealing properly, instead bottoming out. I NEED to secure the master cylinder reservoir properly as it blew off whilst I was bleeding the brakes, now it’s fitted I can’t remember how they are originally secured – if anyone’s got any insight on how it secures to the master cylinder let me know as I’m slightly reluctant to take it off now it’s all been bled. Asides that the brake pedals solid, clutch works, albeit a bit heavy still in my opinion for a hydro clutch?! Got the intercooler mocked up & mounted, aiming to have it sit behind the front bumper where the air ducts are so it’s down low & nice and cool. Need to buy a pipe with the sensor mounting point in for ECU boost pressure I assume & make up the pipework. Unfortunately, looks like I’m going to have to cut the toeing eye off as there just isn’t enough room for the pipe to pass with the cooler in its current location – small sacrifice to make. Also found a hedgehog in the piping box! Now off to the maldives for a week so it's going on hold, temporarily - for a week!
Small update, lots of little jobs being ticked off but here is the big(ger) stuff. Not far off turn the key time - light finally at the end of the tunnel! Just need to get the PAS reservoir fitted, fill all the fluids & buy an additional 90 degree inter cooler elbow then should see no reason why I can't try starting her Managed to get all the inter cooler piping mocked up & fitted sunday, quite surprised as it took me half a day & was expecting it to take substantially longer so small plus Had to cut the toeing eye off the chassis leg to make room for the piping but it fits absolutely perfectly now. Small alteration to the slam panel just to give it a bit more breathing space as well. Got a new PAS reservoir, need to make a bracket & find somewhere to put it & hoping to tonight to make the exhaust tunnel heatshield & fit finish putting all the exhaust on. Got a load of piping left over & 3 joiners - for sale if anyone wants it?
Disappointing update! Was hoping to have the engine running :angry: After getting it to a stage to fire it up Sunday after spending all weekend getting it to that stage it doesn't want to start. After a few hours of wiring checks later, I came to the conclusion that the ECU is dead. In the process of getting it sorted tomorrow as it's going back to where the de-immob was carried out to be tested see what has happened to it. Also purchased another ECU last night, cheap as a spare if it turns out the original one is unrepairable. Though on the good side, all fluids are in & topped up. Coolant is in & looks like we have no leaks, same for the PAS fluid however both need to bled with the engine running. Lubricated all the bores & turned the engine over by hand a few times before starting. Fresh mobil 1 oil in & a new filter fitted. Oil pressure & boost gauge work to at least from cranking on non start up Fusebox used to run inline fuses & the array of mess that is wiring. Got hold of some heavy duty T bolt hose clamps to secure the charge air system, skeptical of jubilee clips at the best times let alone when under huge amounts of air pressure on non beaded pipes. Fitted the Forge modified inter cooler pipe with the flange mount for the boost sensor to on the right. Fitted the PAS steering reservoir & made a bracket to mount, functional but out of the way B) Fitted all the exhaust system now to, still need to make the heat shield for the tunnel. Anyone else thing the Qpeng downpipe is a *really* close to fit, it's practically touching the bulkhead on mine, took a bit of fiddling & adjusting to get it a comfortable distance away.
Good stuff mate, its looking complete ish lol Defo need distance between the charge pipe and your fuel lines, that pipe under boost gets HOT! Especially with remapped k04 cars, the manifold is a choke point and starts glowing after a spirited drive. Good luck with the non beaded pipes, theyll do to get you up and running but remapped for extra boost and you need to redo them with beaded ends for reliability. Looking great though, just need to get the fecker started up, im sure thatl give you a big, long overdue confidence boost.
Cheers Mush - It's getting there at last. I'm putting in 3-4 hours a night at the moment, getting pretty sick of cars to be quite honest lol I've got to do the run around with the heat mat when it's closer to being used, lots of things that are touching close to a heat source, especially now I've had it up & running AT LAST to realise how bloody hot the thing gets. See how I get on with the pipes, I bought the T clamps to hopefully counter the pipes blowing off but I've been looking at the homemade bead tool to. So. Not a very visual update but some major progress at last & lots of text instead from what's going on! From the last update, I had the ECU I got cheap off ebay de-immob & she started up first turn of the key Albeit, it was rattly but it's not been used for gone on 4 years. Left it running for about an hour at idle & few short revs - fair few areas of concern at the moment though which is disappointing but this is what happens when you buy a used no history engine I guess! First off the oil pressure is off the charts HIGH. On initial startup - my mechanical oil gauge reads up to 100psi the actual pressure is that it sends the gauge past 100psi to what if the scale carried on would probably be nearer 130-150psi!! I'm not sure how much this is to do with the fact it's not been run for so long but I'm sure it's excessive. Over the course of 10-15 minutes it slowly goes down but will still sit at 30-40 psi at idle, think after at full operating temp is was IIRC just sat above where it should be (1.3 bar 18psi min) @ 20-25psi. When rpms rise on throttle the pressure rockets again to 70-90psi - the oil pressure buzzer on the MK2 Cluster also starts going mad so there is definitely a fault there!.. Car is also smoking a lot at idle first 5 minutes on startup, then clears slightly. I have a small inclining now that the high oil pressure fault may have something to do with the relief valve in the oil filter housing & the fact it's all powder coated may be affecting it's operation, I'll be taking it out tomorrow & cleaning it all up but I think I'm probably going to buy a new bracket if it's feasible cost wise or completely clean it up. Annoyingly I remember after having it done that it would one day have the repercussions!.. Car is running Mobil 1 0w40 - new life oil which is in spec with VW 500/501 approved oils as initially thought it might be something to do with the wrong oil / viscosity backing up the pressure..? I also had a minor leak from the sandwich plate, which has been replaced with a new one, new seals with decent threads in the plate to hold the sensors. This has now been fixed & one less thing to worry about. Alternator isn't charging the car. Need to check the exciter wire works to pin 2, but have also wired in the other regulator wire that goes to the ECU from Pin 1 in attempt to get a charge from it. No difference, I've also noticed there is a B1 & B2 - big 13mm terminals on the regulator pack & i have the cable only connected to B1? Inclining again is relating to something to do with the powder coating, though could be a dud from before, sure it was rebuilt at one stage many moons ago with new rotor/slip rings. Have a rattle at 2000rpm + from the cambelt side of the engine/head. Needs me to further diagnose, as unsure where or what it is at the moment, sounds horrendus! Coolant gauge is completely inop - doesn't move at all. I'm running no resistor at the moment, have a feeling I might have to start playing about with resistors to get this going. VAGCOM gets a clear reading & accurate as fans will come on at 90*. PAS Is very noisy, going to try bleeding the system some more as can imagine there is a lot of air in it but think the fact the rack &/or pump have been left dry for so long, rack still being connected & used dry may have finished it off. They are the 'teething' problems anyway. On the up side ... lol I did drive the car a short distance up & down the street which was awesome, there are no faulty sensors either. Purchased a new pipercross air filter, rigged up the coolant low level light for the mk4 coolant tank, Checked for further leaks etc & all OK, coolant is maintaining it's correct temp via VAGCOM & fan is working & doing it's job. Got the heat shield mat all mocked up ready for the exhaust system just need some fasteners to hold it all in place. Any advice/experience on the above problems would be welcomed, want to get it all sorted rather quickly so I can get this thing finished. I'd especially appreciate any logged data on oil pressure at specific rpms, idle, startup/peak etc - just to use as a reference. ELSE gives you minimum pressure readings (1.3 bar idle & @3500rpm 3.5 - 4.5 bar ... but not max ones. The oil relief valve is however set at 4 bar/58psi. Ta.
