Good to see your back on to it Chris!! Them CVs are good quality, ive used them a load of times and considering theyre the cheapest around, you cant go wrong! I still prefer the standard k04 oil return pipe though, in the side on pic of your oil return it looks like it flattens out a bit before dropping into the sump. For my GT30 i cut up and rewelded the k04 return to make it fit. If id known how easy it was when i did my mk2 20vt id have done that also to clear the mount. Saying that i never had a prob with my mount. Id also think about heatshielding the loom as it goes past the turbo, k04 manifolds when remapped and abused glow nearly white hot so theres a load of heat down there. Not being picky mate though mate, be nice to see it up and running!! Nick
Cheers Nick, nice to see the motivation back to be fair The pipe does flatten out a little near the bottom by a cm or so, it'll more than likely be submerged that end anyway so can't necessarily see a problem? Alternatively at the time saw a lot of people cutting large chunks of the rear engine mount bracket anyway, which considering the engine/power wouldn't have been the safer option.. I'm still a little dubious myself about the routing of the wiring still I've bought a lot heat resistant materials that will hopefully do the job of keeping all the wiring safe. If it doesn't work, just a case of drilling another hole somewhere. Currently the cars down at my work to have the engine bay painted AT LAST. Hoping it won't drag on for to long & they do a decent job. More parts to: Brake pipe & unions 1.3 speedo cable. Re-con K04 turbo + gaskets Currently looking at some wheels to get then onto purchasing a full set of Wilwood Midilites with adaptors, EBC pads & braided lines to suit (need bigger wheels first thou)!
Nice work so far bud, i'm starting to seriously consider a 20v transplant sometime(cash and time pending) I looked at getting my cv joints from the same place and then went for some others off the bay which I'm starting to regret now looking at what Mush said I should have gone for them, What sort of power are you expecting when its all up and running?
Go for it Jedi! Mine's only taking so long because I'm overly anal & a slight perfectionist. In a way, I kinda wish I'd just thrown it in on Qpeng management without having everything powdercoated etc just so I could enjoy it. After a re-map think the norm' is 260-280bhp map dependent.
Funnily enough the Qpeng method is probably the way i'd go, the same with the powdercoating as well if its off may as well make it look nice before putting it back That's gonna fly with that sort of power
Qpeng's the quickest & easiest way to get it in & running - not necessarily the cheapest mind. I don't care about it looking nice now - just wanna drive the thing. Problem being once you start making things look nice, you can't exactly stop.
Engine bays finally been painted last saturday, trailored back thursday to my garage. Cost me 50 - Wish we'd taken a bit more time prepping & cleaning (& removed the grommets, school boy error!) but for the time & money really happy with it Filler used was like a sealant then painted over. Finish looks really good, was done in a proper paint booth & baked after. Big to turbotommy for sorting me out the master cylinder spacer & heatshield for the steering column jacket gaitor. Can get all that fitted. Brand new clutch slave cylinder & clutch master cylinder. New Speedo cable, new mk3 top mounts for the Kw's, new brake pipe unions, new feed pipe for brake fluid from brake res - to clutch master & securing clips for the rad fan. Turbo & 2 bottles of redline MT90 transmission oil. Got some brake pipe from halfords for tenner, too. Purchased some Ibiza cupra R 305mm brembo calipers also that should be arriving soon. Just need to sort out some decent 16" wheels before fitting. Next to refurb the calipers, get hold of some wheels as above, some more RAAMmat soundproofing to do the bulkhead, ECU deimmobilsed & coded, inter cooler piping & generally start fitting stuff back into the car to get it back together Shame the weather's so cold otherwise I'd be out there now!
Small update.. Been getting on with soundproofing the bulkhead.. Cleaning all the adhesive off the old foam is one of the more tedious jobs, applying the mat is also a bit of purely due to the fact the bulkheads not flat & the position your in to apply it. Got the foam to fit after & some more carpet underlay, will be able to put the interior back in then Had to have the box off to fit the gasket between block & engine again, slave cylinder fitted & clutch master cylinder fitted to now. Started making up brake pipes for the clutch lines to, think I'm going to invest in stainless lines as copper just looks crap! Picked up a 2.5 jetex catback system to last weekend B) Decided wilwood midilites will now be the brake kit of choice after playing about with them at the autosport show, rallydesign can also do a bit of mix & match deal making the price right, too
Finished off the soundproofing this weekend - Seriousy tedious long job! Closed cell foam was layered over the butyl across the entire bulk head & upwards. Yesterday went out & bought some more carpet underlay as old stuff was pretty tatty & the stuff I had before had been attacked by a family of mice living in the car That should now pad out everything finishing off the soundproofing. Pedal box, Servo, master cylinders for brakes & clutch all installed to. Started to make the brake pipes but low & behold another problem, the outlets from the cupra master cylinder use bigger unions & I lost T piece for the brake pipe, too. Anti roll bar installed properly now, had to push the bushes on further, have the wrong size nuts for those link rods as well... Was going to fit the heater box & start lobbing the interior back together when I noticed the air flaps in the box were falling apart.. OCD kicked in so used some of the left over foam from the soundproofing to re do those & clean & re grease the heater box. After..
Just read all this great build just doing a mk3 cab 20v And been offerd a aum but wasn't sure if the throttle pedal was more trouble than it's worth
Cheers guys Haven't got round to that yet. Doesn't look overly bad though. Fly by wire pedal, wiring is straight forward & using an L shaped long bracket to secure the the pedal to the pedal box. Just the pedal position that might be a bit of a pain but bracket should be adjustable to move about make sure it's perfect
Purchased some wheels B) Borbet B's 16 x 7.5. Need a re-furb going to get them done sometime this week. Looking to use rimfurbish in west bromwich, seem reasonably priced & have a good rep. If anyone has any recommendations fire away B) Also finished off making brake pipes, re-fitted the heater box & steering column. Fitted new seals to the power steering lines & started trying to reorganise the wiring in the interior ready for the rest the engine loom to come in. Not many pictures, got dark quick!
Wheels went to Rim stock for a re-furb, came back awesome - really happy with them B) Should be ordering tyres for them this week to, just trying to make my mind up on what brand of tyre I want.. Fitted the brake lines, got some securing clips. Actually quite like the look of the copper pipe. Cut the lug off the master cylinder ready for a reservoir to fit. Fitted all the oil sensors. Used a load of pfte tape around the oil temp sensor as its thread m10 x 1 doesn't screw into the sandwich plate which is 1/8npt - it's to baggy though the threads match. Time will tell if it leaks but I've yet to find an adaptor.. Also purchased a mechanical 2 in 1 oil pressure & oil temp gauge. Racetech Oil Gauge Fitted the turbo at long last. Put some oil in the feed hole to pre-lube it. Found out after fitting the Qpeng downpipe I needed to switch a angled joint around as the oil return pipe came out directly rubbing the downpipe. Altered & it's out the way, still avoiding the drive-shaft too. Made a heat shield for the bulk head. Used a cardboard template to start with & covered the edges in metal tape. Probably going to use butyl strips to secure it fully to the bulkhead. Started to make the shielding for the wiring loom as well though need to wait to receive the capillary line for the oil gauge as this is all being run in a similar area.
looking good so far! I recommend you change to the mk2 g60/corrado pas reservoir setup as you might find the mk2 bottle is a bit tight with the 02a in there. it sits behind the battery so nice n neat too. see my build thread
Looking very nice the only thing i would do is try and put the brake lines behind the heat shield as there will be a lot of heat in that area.
Cheers dudes Jonny it's on my many lists to do have always wondered what was involved in using it though, ideally I'd like it hidden but still accessible. Great build to, never knew you had one til now! Mike also on the to do list , going to use a extra piece just to flap over & cover the brake pipes that are surrounding the exhaust/turbo. Hard to gauge exactly where that is without the engine fitted though. Have a bag of fasteners to play about with to secure it too Trying to book next week off work so hoping to make some serious headway then!
Got tyres fitted to the Borbets Friday, Pirelli P Zero Neros, left a nice dent in the wallet. Ordered some more parts: Racetech gauge arrived. Had to order an additional braided oil pressure line for the gauge & adaptor to suit. Some exhaust hangers, had to order another 2 after realising I needed more.. Lambda sensor Power steering pipe clip 1 pin connector for the solenoid switch on the starter Fitted new front wheel bearings & brand new hubs. Front coilovers fitted, all greased up threads & assembled using mk3 vr6 top mounts. #1 home made tool, 21mm socket wrapped in cardboard, tighened with mulgrips in a vice to get the stupid 21mm nut off the top mount! Got the driveshafts in & tighened up, note home made tool #2 to stop the hub moving (old 8v strut) when tightening to a damn near ridiculous torque - needed to take the play out of the bearing! It was in excess of 300nm++ Fitted the the oil pressure line for the oil gauge at the sandwich plate Made up some more heat shielding for the brake pipes & the wiring loom. (The MRS's handywork actually ) Have a week off work so now so the expectation is to have this pretty much wrapped up by the end of the week. With just small things left to finish up.. he says Also ordered new rear pads & discs & decided I would replace the tie rods, tie rod ends & the boots for them just as they hadn't been replaced.
Progress has been al right this week considering the crap weather we're having. Managed to 2 half days on it so far. Engines finally in at last Bit behind on pictures as ran out of time today.. So far though.. Fitted rear coil overs. Scrubbed the inner arches back to their original, clean state. On removal of the passenger side rear strut, I found the top spring cup had COMPLETELY corroded away - the spring was being held in by the body basically, was expecting that! On that side the spring had rubbed through a bit of paint & had a little surface rust, so wire brushed that back, gave it a quick waxoyl & sprayed it back. On both sides I had some engine preservation wax from work so sprayed that all over the inside of the strut towers to prevent any further rot in the future. Fitted the SS Jetex back box & middle box. Still to fit is the straight pipe though I can't see how that's going to mate to the Qpeng downpipe as it isn't long enough to extend to the same height as the straight pipe, probably going to need a flexi pipe to join the two together. Also still need to accquire a factory tunnel heat shield from somewhere (if anyone has one they want to sell!) Wheels on. Looks high as the engine isn't in yet & I haven't played about with it at all.. Think I might run a spacer on the rears to push them out a little bit & get them flush. Order turned up along with the silicone turbo outlet, fan switch & magnetic drain plug which I no longer need.. Had to go out & buy a adjustable spanner as my 32mm is at work & some CV boot pliers as I don't have any...
